16HP Vanguard valve adjustment

[bertsmobile1]

The modules are embedded inside the coil
Remove the wire connecting them together & see how you go .
I don't have the experience to know which engines had an external diode in that wire and which did not so I always pull that wire when diagnosing

 

[Gumby83]

Update, sort of....

First, minor correction on the engine serial number, since I don't know if it matters - it's an A1 not an E1 as cited in my first post. I don't know the difference but wanted to clear that up. I have been doing all my research/parts checking using A1.

I haven't had time to do any more troubleshooting since my last post, but I've been digging around in my off time, trying to determine the difference between the recommended spark plugs per the Briggs part# and the plugs that are installed.

Quick recap:

The plugs that are installed in it now (supplied by customer) are Champion RN14YC.
The plugs that it calls for per a cross-reference to the Briggs part #496018S are Champion RC14YC.

Looking at part details on my shop supplier website, as well as a few others, I couldn't find any differences between them except the size of the hex. Then I found this page on Champions website that breaks down their numbering system - https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/decoding-champion-spark-plugs.html - and as it turns out, the hex size is the only difference between them that I can tell. The resistor, electrode, projection, and heat range are all identical.

So I think the next move is to remove the kill wire connecting the coils and see if it makes a difference.

 

[mechanic mark]

Results

www.briggsandstratton.com

Engine Operators Manual & Illustrated Parts List

 

[Gumby83]

OK - so on the last day of the year, with about 1/2 hour left in the working day, I got the cover pulled back off, removed the wire connecting the coils, and attempted to start... and it fired right up! I immediately shut it off, convinced it had to be a fluke, then attempted to start it again...and it fired right up! 2 more times I shut it off and started it without ANY hesitation or problems, even with what had to be some not-so-good gas in it.

As it turns out, 2020 wasn’t a complete loss after all!

So will it harm anything to run it with the kill circuit completely out of the loop? Or should I get a replacement wire with diode? I don’t know how many hours a year this thing will be used but I’m ready for it to leave ASAP.

 

[Rivets]

Personally I would not recommend running the engine without the proper wiring harness. You could very easily ruin a coil. Before ordering a new harness test the old one using the procedure in Sec 2, page 4 of this manual. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ySkZjTTA5TGltZEE/view

 

[Gumby83]

Personally I would not recommend running the engine without the proper wiring harness. You could very easily ruin a coil. Before ordering a new harness test the old one using the procedure in Sec 2, page 4 of this manual. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ySkZjTTA5TGltZEE/view

I’m of the same opinion but I didn’t know whether or not it would actually harm the coils since (in theory) the only path to ground with the kill wire unhooked would be through the spark plug.

I was also curious if there’s a way to re-wire the kill circuit to eliminate the diodes but haven’t had time to figure it out yet. I’ve converted a couple of customer mowers to a non-module controlled set up using a kit, but those were on Kohler engines. This engine doesn’t have a module but the principle seems like it would be the same.

Thanks for the link. I’ll test the diodes when I have some time to work on it again.

 

[Walt 2002]

Suggest you disconnect both kill wires at base of each coil. If I understand you correctly, disconnecting where you have does no good.
Walt Conner

 

[Gumby83]

Suggest you disconnect both kill wires at base of each coil. If I understand you correctly, disconnecting where you have does no good.
Walt Conner

Yes, I’ve already done that and determined the kill wire connecting the coils was the problem - that’s what my post the other day (#14) was about.

What I’m trying to determine now is if there are any other options for wiring the kill circuit besides the diodes.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Just replace the sub loom it is only a couple of bucks
Or if money is tight replace both diodes
A 6 pack is about $ 2
I just got my 100 pack for $ 15 Aus
Normally I would not bother because by the time I cut out the old ones, crimp in the new ons , cover them with 2 layers of heat shrink the labour is worth about $ 30
But the idiot morons who run the Australian B & S warehouse would be mentally challenged trying to run a bush dunny so they never seem have the sub loom in stock and waiting 15 weeks this time of year down here is not on.

 

[Gumby83]

But the idiot morons who run the Australian B & S warehouse would be mentally challenged trying to run a bush dunny....

??

The language is a bit different but I totally understand what you mean. I live in the Midwest US but I have an uncle originally from the Brisbane area. Can’t say I’ve ever heard him use the term “bush dunny” before but now I’ll be listening more closely because that is awesome.

I’m not opposed to just replacing the wire harness (certainly not gonna replace just the diodes - not worth my time either) - I just didn’t know if any better options for wiring the kill circuit were available or not.