13.5 hp briggs

[upnorth]

Well, got the motor unbolted, belts off the pulley. You guys could've told me that the pulleys wouldn't clear the chassis! Well, the smaller one did however the larger, I couldn't even get it to clear by angling it. So now I got to use a three jaw from underneath the mower to get it off!
But I got to wait. My compressor blew out a sleeve. Repair parts should be here Friday. Then I'll be back in business - I hope!
Oh yeah the crankcase didn't look bulged out so the counterweight should still be in one piece.

 

[Fish]

How in the world can we know what you are working on? Briggs makes engines for hundreds of applications....

 

[upnorth]

well, surprisingly I'm glad it came apart so easily. with a puller on the pulleys I heard a snap and the pulley slid right off!
I separated the lower crankcase housing from the rest - no metal filings inside. everything was clean. counterweight was still bolted in place. I'll post some pictures later today.
What's that thing with the plastic gear and what looks like fly balls and a moving sleeve that contacts the governor pawl.
I guess next I'll hafta order new gaskets and a few hardware items and put this sucker back together!
I'm still confused what that clung noise was.

 

[Fish]

The part you are describing is the gov/oil slinger.

Were the engine mounting bolts loose? The bearings around the counterweight have any slop?

 

[upnorth]

No, everything is still tight. I did notice that the bolts that hold the crankcase cover on came off without any due force. The engine bolts were pretty tight holding it on the frame.
The pictures I have listed

 

[upnorth]

Remember I said that I had hit a tree stump? After this is when the clung noise started. Well, follow this train of thought -- the two mower blades are spinning at high speed when all of a sudden those rpms are reduced to almost zero. The engine speed goes down but doesn't completely stop. They pick back up and I finish mowing but that clung sound is there. My thinking is that the pulley got slightly bent and was hitting the part of the deck the engine is mouinted on - this is the first pulley, the one that feeds power to the drive wheels. AND the other pulley that powers the blades is down further on the pulley shaft. So this is wobbling a touch, and may be contacting the belt guide rods which are bolted to the chassis. Anyway I ordered a new double pulley.

 

[Fish]

I hit a rope near a boat once, and it wrapped around the blades and shut the engine off suddenly once. When I restarted, I had a clunk. The rod attaching the counterweight to the block had shattered, still ran good, but just clunked.

 

[upnorth]

As you can see from the photos, the counterweight is still intact. I took off the outer counterweight and the aluminum link is still in one piece. I don't think much force was applied to the crankshaft to bend it because all the energy to the blades is transmitted by means of a belt which in my thinking would take up the shock of suddenly stopping. 'Be different if the drive was a chain drive.
Question - would a 1/4 inch drive break-away in-lb torque wrench be ok? I can get one 20-200 in-lb. or should I get a 3/8 inch drive?

 

[reynoldston]

I will be right next door to you in a couple of weeks. Right in Reynoldston NY, around the corner from you. If you still are having problems give me a call, its always a nice ride down River road.

 

[Fish]

To be honest, I only use a torque wrench on rod bolts, some of the time.... I never argue with anyone that wants to do it by the book. Well torqueing the starter top screws, I may give a bit of a hard time....