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Not to turn this into a "political" argument, but you might want to take a look at this, and other sources that explain how ethanol became "mandated". The "US Government" did not come up with the idea on it's own, it was hand fed to Lawmakers along with "too much money" by those with an...

No. Just snaps in.

Recently had similar issues. At the end here I will show a way to measure belt length. A first question is, did this start "out of the blue", maybe after sitting for a season or two or after changing something else? I replaced the pivot plate (55) as you did and also the two "brake arms"...

This appears resolved. I put the D&D belt back on after shortening the front links several turns and the blades do not move at idle. A bit "stiff" engaging the clutch, but I understand it will loosen up after an hour or so. Thanks for all the advice.

Thanks. I can see if I can cancel it. What is the other problem? The idea of shortening the front arm? The front locator is on threads, so I should be able to move it forward. Probably not much movement is required.

That's how mine works. Ordered a PIX A93 belt, we shall see if that measures longer. If all else fails and they all seem too tight, I guess I can shorten those "front link" a bit, if there is thread left. That should move the deck forward and make the belt slacker. No idea how far I can move...

The "idler" is the one pointed to in the picture I posted, not the "clutch" pulley? When I tighten the holding bolt for that, it is stationary. Rotates on the bearing but does not move otherwise. If that is supposed to be free to adjust itself then I assembled that part incorrectly. I'll...

Who set that standard? Seems pretty gross difference to me.

Thanks for all the replies. One vendor got back to me and stated, more or less, "you can use it, 95.5 is only what LT1000 says, use it and it will work fine in a little while". Uh, no, not what I consider a good reply. Guess my only options are to try other brands or pony up for an OEM...

Got no clue what pitch diameter is. Guess I have to look that one up.

I measured both belts I have and they measure just about 94 1/4 inches. One is a cheaper ebay belt made in india the other is by D&D off Amazon several years ago. Measured by method described earlier. Making a mark on the V side of the belt, matching it to a mark on the floor and rolling it...

Well, as a driveway mechanic, $200 for a belt measuring tool is not happening. I do have an old "tailors tape" that might do in a pinch. The fabric kind. So, the OD is the measurement to go by? Always wondered about that. Edit: I found a way to measure the length by making a mark on the...

New thread on old topic. Replaced brake arms, pivot plate, clutch cable on the deck. I'm pretty sure I got the stationary idler pulley on correctly Put on a new belt as well. Advertised to be 95.5 inches. p/n 144959 is marked on it. Started engine and the blades turn furiously with the...

Let me change the subject a bit. I just went ahead and pressed down on the pivot point in a press and now the bolt bears down on the washer and allows the are to move freely without much play. Works for me. Now my question is how to line up the non movable idler pulley that I had to remove...

Perhaps someone will notice this update and respond. Got the brake/arm kit. Seems the part that goes under the shouldered "pivot bolt" for the brake arms are not the correct ones. Seem original to the machine. What happens is when the bolts are tightened down the arm binds. If I loosen them...

Mine lists 140294 for drive 82 x 1/2 144959 for deck 95.5 x 1/2 That's what I loved about Sears/Craftsman. Same "model" but different product numbers and often "not quite the same". Yours likely has a electric clutch as well.

Thanks. The product number for my machine is not listed. Close, but not exact. edit - But, a bit more digging shows the individual part number, once figured out, do seem to match. The brake pads are gone and the I tried some "dry lube" on the linkages. That freed things up some. Enough to...

Just purchased one of correct length on Ebay. Thanks for your assistance.

Amazon - "D&D PowerDrive - ORB-12827-144959-4LK950 Kevlar Replacement Belt" The model number is 917-272061 serial 022801B002572 I see it lists as 95 inches and other belts list as 95 1/2 inches. AND, reading the Amazon reviews, I see one mentioned it being 95 and breaking the cable end...

I'll give that a look when the new cable comes in. If I recall it pretty much only "works properly" in one layout. But, I did put in a new belt at the same time, so, could be that or misroute I guess.

Just a bump to ask if anyone has an idea why the clutch is so hard to engage? Cable too short? It only lasted maybe 5 or 10 engagements. There does not seem to be any adjustment. Ordered a new one, different supplier, with "tractor supply" in it's name, so maybe this will be better...

Got an older Craftsman LT1000 with mechanical clutch actuation. Put in a new clutch cable a few years back, but has seen very little use since then having reclaimed a JD 240 GT I used to own. Last year decided to sell the old horse and, of course, it would not start. New coil. Started on fluid...

I managed to clean up the OEM carb and freed up the solenoid, but, after getting it to start. I let it sit for a week, due to weather. Then, it would only start on starter fluid. Found the solenoid was not working. Again. It was stuck. Gummed up. Got it freed up again and ready to try...

Went ahead and replaced the fuel lines, filter, bulb and cleaned the carb, installing new "diaphragms" and gaskets. Had to buy a sheet of Uni Filter foam and cut what I needed as the OEM is not available. Went with Uni oil. Man that stuff is thick. So, it did start pretty easily and seems...

It pulls fine without the plug in it. After I cleared out all the mouse house debris. Only with the plug installed does it "hang hard" at some point in the pull. I can get past it, just very hard to. If you ever tried to start a reluctant chain saw, or maybe any 2 stroke, there are times...

Got a Craftsman leaf blower that sat for years. Could not pull the cords. It was packed with mouse house debris and when cleaned out a bit, could pull it but it would stick, hard. Pulled the plug and it would pull, cleaning out a lot more debris, nothing out of the spark plug hole. But...

Looks like those are for the "walbro" carb, I seem to have the other one. Don't recall name, but starts with an "n" I think. part number is 12-757-27-s

Thanks. Hard to say if the cheaper kits will fit the carb I have despite the number not matching exactly. It is kind of unique, from what I have read. But for a few bucks probably worth a try.

Rounded up the original carb. Soaked the frozen solenoid, not up to the electrical "seal" in a mix of vinegar and table salt. This is known to be an effective "corrosion remover". Let is sit for a day, then probed the solenoid plunger with a toothpick, testing if free. Sure enough it move a...

Mid Hudson area, same deal. No one wants anti-freeze, only one municipal dump will take any and you have to get their annual permit. Twice a year the county semi-private waste collection outfit will hold a "household waste" collection and they will take AF, "bad gasoline", oil filters, but . ...

I wondered about some of those points. Now that snow has covered the ground, I looked over the carbs and am having difficulty determining which jets should be looked at and maybe drilled. The throttle link I will examine.

That is pretty much what mine looks like, but it has two leads coming out of it. Measures about 20 ohms, but does not actuate when putting a battery to it. Sadly the battery has seen better days and only puts out 10 VDC. I'm gonna soak the solenoid, threads down, in some vinegar and salt...

No, did not know that. Do you mean aftermarket carbs or "genuine Kohler" carbs? Any idea what will work on CV461s?

Two actually. Both aftermarket. It ran fine on the original carb, last summer. I just parked it when I got the other mower. There were two issues when attempting to get it going. The coil was bad. Replaced and ran on ether or gas dribbled in the carb. The solenoid was bad on the...

It is a CV461s code 26504. Surely there must be a workable replacement does not cost more than the mower is worth(.) (?). I guess that falls between a statement and a question.

Thanks for the link to the manual. Already ordered a very similar one. Two in fact, each from different suppliers. Both acted basically the same. I'll see if I can rustle up the old carb and get it going, even without the solenoid.

I've used aftermarket carbs on other gear, chainsaws, splitters and such, with good results. None of them where Kohlers, now that I review them. The big problem with the original carb was the solenoid was pretty rare and the one I found the price of 4 of these aftermarket carbs. I guess I...

Sears/Craftsman LT1000 model 917.272061 with Kohler CV461s. As I inherited a JD 240GT I was going to sell the LT1000 as "Ran fine when parked". But, in a fit of "conscience", I found it would not start, even on starter fluid. Pulled my ad. Replaced coil and it would start and run on spritz...

My source for those number is the old sears/craftsman user manual which has diagrams and part numbers in the back. Imagine your numbers are better.

Looking for a "good" replacement Carb for Craftsman LT1000 with Kohler command CV461s 16HP engine. Replacement parts numbers are 12-053-68 (carb only) and 12-853-68s (complete "kit"). Lots of replacement carbs on Fleabay and Amastink, but none match those numbers exactly. Already been through...

OK, so, I screwed up and wasted a lot of peoples time. I do have an FS90R. It has been stilling cold and forlorn in the back of the shed while I enjoyed the services, reluctant as they were, of the FS80R I was actually using. Sigh. Age and ignorance are a terrible combination. So, cleaned...

Paid a visit to the "Saloon". Looks pretty simple.

Don't see any procedure in the users manual. It's a "take to dealer" thing. I'll look for how to do it.

I'll check that too, when I get the correct spark plug.

I put in what came out NGK BPMR7a. That one looks a lot different. But, reading the operator manual it specs a Bosch USR 7 AC which is quite different from what I took out also. Snout looks a lot longer. My saws take the BRMR7a so maybe I screwed up at some point?

Worked good last week. Put in new fuel today, fired up quick, but was "missing", puffing a wisp of white smoke. Warmed up a bit and stopped smoking, but would not reach a "smooth" top speed, appeared to be struggling and never reached "normal" top speed. Struggled to cut any grass. Pulled...

Older Lt1000 with 42 inch deck and manual lever to engage blade drive. Short story is, after sitting for some time and getting it running again, cannot force the lever to engage the deck drive. Removed deck to check things. The brake levers, etc. seem to operate normally, by hand. I...

I looked up the part number from the owners manual and it appears to be a magneto type.

Air Filter can cause no spark?

LT 1000 ran last year. Gave it a rinse last week, OK, power rinse as it had accumulated crud. Gave it a battery charge and it will not start. Tried starter fluid, does not even try to fire. Kohler 16 OHV engine. Removed the plug and with a ground wire attached to the threads and the...