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Mine lists 140294 for drive 82 x 1/2 144959 for deck 95.5 x 1/2 That's what I loved about Sears/Craftsman. Same "model" but different product numbers and often "not quite the same". Yours likely has a electric clutch as well.

Thanks. The product number for my machine is not listed. Close, but not exact. edit - But, a bit more digging shows the individual part number, once figured out, do seem to match. The brake pads are gone and the I tried some "dry lube" on the linkages. That freed things up some. Enough to...

Just purchased one of correct length on Ebay. Thanks for your assistance.

Amazon - "D&D PowerDrive - ORB-12827-144959-4LK950 Kevlar Replacement Belt" The model number is 917-272061 serial 022801B002572 I see it lists as 95 inches and other belts list as 95 1/2 inches. AND, reading the Amazon reviews, I see one mentioned it being 95 and breaking the cable end...

I'll give that a look when the new cable comes in. If I recall it pretty much only "works properly" in one layout. But, I did put in a new belt at the same time, so, could be that or misroute I guess.

Just a bump to ask if anyone has an idea why the clutch is so hard to engage? Cable too short? It only lasted maybe 5 or 10 engagements. There does not seem to be any adjustment. Ordered a new one, different supplier, with "tractor supply" in it's name, so maybe this will be better...

Got an older Craftsman LT1000 with mechanical clutch actuation. Put in a new clutch cable a few years back, but has seen very little use since then having reclaimed a JD 240 GT I used to own. Last year decided to sell the old horse and, of course, it would not start. New coil. Started on fluid...

I managed to clean up the OEM carb and freed up the solenoid, but, after getting it to start. I let it sit for a week, due to weather. Then, it would only start on starter fluid. Found the solenoid was not working. Again. It was stuck. Gummed up. Got it freed up again and ready to try...

Went ahead and replaced the fuel lines, filter, bulb and cleaned the carb, installing new "diaphragms" and gaskets. Had to buy a sheet of Uni Filter foam and cut what I needed as the OEM is not available. Went with Uni oil. Man that stuff is thick. So, it did start pretty easily and seems...

It pulls fine without the plug in it. After I cleared out all the mouse house debris. Only with the plug installed does it "hang hard" at some point in the pull. I can get past it, just very hard to. If you ever tried to start a reluctant chain saw, or maybe any 2 stroke, there are times...

Got a Craftsman leaf blower that sat for years. Could not pull the cords. It was packed with mouse house debris and when cleaned out a bit, could pull it but it would stick, hard. Pulled the plug and it would pull, cleaning out a lot more debris, nothing out of the spark plug hole. But...

Looks like those are for the "walbro" carb, I seem to have the other one. Don't recall name, but starts with an "n" I think. part number is 12-757-27-s

Thanks. Hard to say if the cheaper kits will fit the carb I have despite the number not matching exactly. It is kind of unique, from what I have read. But for a few bucks probably worth a try.

Rounded up the original carb. Soaked the frozen solenoid, not up to the electrical "seal" in a mix of vinegar and table salt. This is known to be an effective "corrosion remover". Let is sit for a day, then probed the solenoid plunger with a toothpick, testing if free. Sure enough it move a...

Mid Hudson area, same deal. No one wants anti-freeze, only one municipal dump will take any and you have to get their annual permit. Twice a year the county semi-private waste collection outfit will hold a "household waste" collection and they will take AF, "bad gasoline", oil filters, but . ...

I wondered about some of those points. Now that snow has covered the ground, I looked over the carbs and am having difficulty determining which jets should be looked at and maybe drilled. The throttle link I will examine.

That is pretty much what mine looks like, but it has two leads coming out of it. Measures about 20 ohms, but does not actuate when putting a battery to it. Sadly the battery has seen better days and only puts out 10 VDC. I'm gonna soak the solenoid, threads down, in some vinegar and salt...

No, did not know that. Do you mean aftermarket carbs or "genuine Kohler" carbs? Any idea what will work on CV461s?

Two actually. Both aftermarket. It ran fine on the original carb, last summer. I just parked it when I got the other mower. There were two issues when attempting to get it going. The coil was bad. Replaced and ran on ether or gas dribbled in the carb. The solenoid was bad on the...

It is a CV461s code 26504. Surely there must be a workable replacement does not cost more than the mower is worth(.) (?). I guess that falls between a statement and a question.

Thanks for the link to the manual. Already ordered a very similar one. Two in fact, each from different suppliers. Both acted basically the same. I'll see if I can rustle up the old carb and get it going, even without the solenoid.

I've used aftermarket carbs on other gear, chainsaws, splitters and such, with good results. None of them where Kohlers, now that I review them. The big problem with the original carb was the solenoid was pretty rare and the one I found the price of 4 of these aftermarket carbs. I guess I...

Sears/Craftsman LT1000 model 917.272061 with Kohler CV461s. As I inherited a JD 240GT I was going to sell the LT1000 as "Ran fine when parked". But, in a fit of "conscience", I found it would not start, even on starter fluid. Pulled my ad. Replaced coil and it would start and run on spritz...

My source for those number is the old sears/craftsman user manual which has diagrams and part numbers in the back. Imagine your numbers are better.

Looking for a "good" replacement Carb for Craftsman LT1000 with Kohler command CV461s 16HP engine. Replacement parts numbers are 12-053-68 (carb only) and 12-853-68s (complete "kit"). Lots of replacement carbs on Fleabay and Amastink, but none match those numbers exactly. Already been through...

OK, so, I screwed up and wasted a lot of peoples time. I do have an FS90R. It has been stilling cold and forlorn in the back of the shed while I enjoyed the services, reluctant as they were, of the FS80R I was actually using. Sigh. Age and ignorance are a terrible combination. So, cleaned...

Paid a visit to the "Saloon". Looks pretty simple.

Don't see any procedure in the users manual. It's a "take to dealer" thing. I'll look for how to do it.

I'll check that too, when I get the correct spark plug.

I put in what came out NGK BPMR7a. That one looks a lot different. But, reading the operator manual it specs a Bosch USR 7 AC which is quite different from what I took out also. Snout looks a lot longer. My saws take the BRMR7a so maybe I screwed up at some point?

Worked good last week. Put in new fuel today, fired up quick, but was "missing", puffing a wisp of white smoke. Warmed up a bit and stopped smoking, but would not reach a "smooth" top speed, appeared to be struggling and never reached "normal" top speed. Struggled to cut any grass. Pulled...

Older Lt1000 with 42 inch deck and manual lever to engage blade drive. Short story is, after sitting for some time and getting it running again, cannot force the lever to engage the deck drive. Removed deck to check things. The brake levers, etc. seem to operate normally, by hand. I...

I looked up the part number from the owners manual and it appears to be a magneto type.

Air Filter can cause no spark?

LT 1000 ran last year. Gave it a rinse last week, OK, power rinse as it had accumulated crud. Gave it a battery charge and it will not start. Tried starter fluid, does not even try to fire. Kohler 16 OHV engine. Removed the plug and with a ground wire attached to the threads and the...

I have personally stretched a brand new steel head bolt in an aluminum block. Granted, it was an automotive engine (a Subaru) and the ultimate torque was far over 20 ft lbs, but it IS an aluminum block. It happened when doing a head gasket replacement, doing the first bolt with a bad clicker...

Many people are upset with the USPS and that is understandable. But, put the blame where it lies. Below is a link that describes the top position in the Post Office. That position was filled during the LAST administration, not the current one. The President, who ever it is, has very little...

If measuring the amps at the red cable connected to the battery, then the DC voltage will be greater than the battery voltage, or the amps could not be flowing. What the measured voltage might be will depend on the charged state of the battery. Of course in a "charging" state, one could not...

"Bypass valve" would only apply to hydro units? This model is not.

Might go look at a JD 240 GT that I'm told has a bad or broken drive belt. While the price is not bad, I'd rather not buy something with a locked spindle or bad transaxle. I do expect to have to put some work and cash into it, probably a deck rebuild, but don't need a boat anchor. Any way to...

What the hell does this have to do with lawnmowers? Please keep your Political and Social views private.

You phone or tablet may have an option for saving in a more compact format. Might not be obvious or say for "text or email", or like that.

This is an older one, before MTD. Says "Intek" on the engine.

I'm thinking of looking at a troybilt CS4210 chipper, 10HP. Intek. Any experiences with that model? What's it worth?

** Looks to be a Robin/Subaru engine. Still no luck finding an aftermarket. <Any idea who made the carb and/or the engine? That might help me find something.>

Thanks. So . . . unless I can find an aftermarket, plentiful and easy to find for other models, it's for scrap?

Found a old Craftsman Brushwacker 636.796231 in the barn. Knowing who owned it, probably almost no use, but, it is looking pretty filthy and gummy. Did a quick search and did not come up with any references to the carb, either entire or rebuild kits. Since it is so old it says 16:1 for the...

I have a straight shaft FS90R with a standard string and poly blade heads. Loop handle only. Have to clear a lot of brush, thick woody growth and 2-3 inch trees. Slow going with an 012av and those heads. Wanted to add a chisel tooth blade or an oregon (type) blade with chain saw teeth...

Just to close this out, the inserts installed fine. I went with the 25mm coils. The used head I got on Ebay turned out to have a warped exhaust valve, discovered when I decided to "lap" in the valves prior to installing it. I used the valve from the head with the dropped seat and it lapped in...

These are 10mm x 1,5 bolts. The measured (roughly) original thread length is 30mm with about 10mm unthreaded past that. Suggests I can just use the standard tap. I have my concerns about the longer lengths, mainly just the ever increasing torque needed to thread them in. Maybe that is not...