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A Hole in the Block. Ask Taryl, he knows it didn't have the courage to keep a piston attached to the crankshaft.

Perfect calibration is not needed for lawn equipment. the key is Consistency. As long as All head or sump Bolts are Torqued to the Same Value, a couple of inch-pounds off won't hurt.

Low Click...Bad Battery. I don't care how new it is. Lately even new batteries have not been dependable. I'm blaming the EPA. Get a trickle charger and charge them at least a couple of times a year.

Clutching Idler? If so it has a Spring and springs wear out. Especially newer ones. Steel ain't what it used to be, It may not be giving the stretched belt the tension it needs, possibly slipping at Transmission under load. For Fluid Change, I'd use a hand pump. You may have to get creative with...

I swapped a 22HP Kawasaki twin for a Briggs 21 HP single on a Cub Cadet RZT50. Wiring harness plugged in all correct, Shaft length and diameter all matched up. Plug and play. Kawasaki had hole in block. Push rods are Puny compared to the Briggs. Gotta keep these motors clean and full of oil or...

Sounds like a Safety Switch problem Except for the ignition off part. Carb Solonoid needs 12V to supply fuel unless that's had the workaround. I believe the "ground wires" you refer to are the Kill Wires. Some of those circuits are interesting. For example if deck is engaged, Starter is...

Hmm...Get the Schematic or Wiring Diagram and study it closely. Did you get up off the seat to hit the switch for lowering deck? could be a Fail-Safe that blows the fuse for safety reasons. Or a relay with Normally closed contacts that's not opening when energized, causing a short to ground...

I like the Permatex Ultra Black. Oil resistant. Throw those gaskets away, no longer needed except when used as a spacer like for end play on Sump gaskets. So much better than paper, no need to level cover. It will seal.

Depends on your situation. That expensive beautifully Clean oil could get real Dirty real quick, even with a filter. Unlike the streets, lawns are dirty, some worse than others. I would focus more on frequent oil changes than type of oil. I use Atwoods house brand HD-30 and change when it gets...

The dead carb was prolly made in China too... As is whatever device you are using Right Now...

Just buy a new carb off Amazon. Prolly under $20. It's just not worth the trouble trying to clean an Ethanol Damaged carb. Many come with air cleaner, fuel line and spark plug.

Sounds like a Fuel/Air Delivery problem.

While Keyway could be bad, it's unlikely. This is a Riding Mower and Keyway is buffered by a belt that will slip. Sounds like a plastic cam got damaged.

Any HD30 is fine for Lawn equipment. It's gonna get dirty quickly anyway, and changed more often. I get a 2 gallon jug from Atwoods. Don't be swayed and use 10W30, It Will Burn off faster, especially in older motors designed for HD30. I'm in Texas with record heat. I like the oil thick.

Needs a Cam. been there, done that.

From gas tank to Electric Pump to Fuel Inlet. Didn't cap Anything. No, gass does not flow to the pulse port. Apparently, design of the pump won't allow flow there. Oh and I used the Headlight Wires. To all the Purist out there: I used Wire Nuts on Power Lawn Equipment. I did Not measure Voltage...

It will piss you off how Soft they are. I once installed a Roll Pin in place of a worn out keyway...Thru the Flywheel. Cheap Harbor Freight drill bit went through that Crank like Butter. For the Oil Passage, simply dremel a small area enough to drill the correct angle. With Oil in the passage it...

Install New Blades. Unbalanced Blades will Very Quickly destroy the Spindle/Mandrel Bearings. It's not like an unbalanced fan blade...Mower Blades are Heavy. Bye Bye Bearings. You'll have a much smother and quieter mowing experience too. I recommend XHT Blades if you can cross to your blade...

I recommend crossing to a set of XHT Blades. I don't buy blades nearly as often as I used to, these are stronger than stock and last a long time. Hardened Steel.

At least remove the nut and washer so you can see the key way. It's probably ok unless it's been removed before and not torqued properly.

While you're in there check the Flywheel Key. Rare on a Rider but I've seen it especially if Nut is not torqued properly. Even if not sheared, a worn Key Way will give you spark but wet plugs.

Don't pay too much! I get most of my parts from Amazon. Look for free returns. Most are made in china anyway... Check Reviews and sort by confirmed purchase. Your first clue was Wet Spark Plugs. Good Luck!

Could be a bad Coil even if you have Spark. Usually it dies when Hot is first symptom. Spark will be Yellow instead of Blue. If you have Fuel and Compression...

Ethanol causes problems in Carburetor Engines. In Fuel Injection Engines there is no place for gas to pool and cause problems. Otherwise we'd have stalled cars all over the roads.

I've had good luck with Most Amazon carbs, and Ethanol will mess them up no faster than the $80 original. Trick is to match HP Rating so jets are the proper size and choose one with a Mixture Adjustment if possible. I used to rebuild with ultrasonic but then New carbs went under $20, Now some...

My Cub Cadet RTZ50 had a Blown Kawasaki. Replaced it with a Briggs, Even the Electric Connector Plugged in, Correct Pinouts. You can Probably find a Non-Running Engine that needs a Carb for Cheap. Good Luck!

Just Replaced my Kamasaki Twin with a Briggs 21hp Single. Even the Electric Plugged Right in, wiring was Correct and Identical.. Fuel Must Be above 1/4 tank or you will need a Pump. If you need a Pump, use a cheap 12v electric, wire to Fuel Solonoid or get a valve cover with hole for pulse Pump...

SAE30HD In My Experience, Multi Weight oil increases oil Consumption in hot Texas Weather. Mowing is Dirty, and engines are low to the ground. Change oil Often, sooner than Recommended.

Last time it ran you Sheared the Flywheel Key. Timing is now off, so it backfires. You're Welcome.

Ya, That Edelbrock is a Little Much! The cheapo is 3-6 PSI. Worked great for me. Mine was the Opposed Twin with the Nothing but Trouble pump on Carb.

Here's the one I got. Some folks don't get it that it's an old motor and pulse ain't like it used to be. I get it. Been There. Problem may be in hook up, I forgot I may have also bought a new ignition switch for the 12v Switched. Here's the one I got, worked like a Champ...

Search Amazon or Ebay for Electric Fuel Pump. Get a Cheap one. I did that for my Murray and it Never Ran Better! No more occasional surging, Instant starts. Any Cheap Pump will do. You're not Racing it, right?

Fuel Obstruction, a flap in fuel line. Replace those Rubber Hoses. Cheap Fix.

Clutch is getting Worn, more distance between Plates equals more Current when engaged. Very similar to A/C clutch on a vehicle. Replace or Adjust. Could be Dirt or Debris in clutch. Blow it out with compressed air. Some Electric clutches have shims(washers) you can remove to compensate for wear...

Bad Gas. The gas in the carb bowl was ok and started the engine, got it just down the drive. When the bad gas from the Tank hit the carb it was Game Over.

I predict this is the Solution. Always keep the tank Full. In hot ,Humid weather a near empty tank causes Condensation. Your Gas is Bad. You have Spark and Compression. Remove plug and blow out all bad gas and let it sit with plug out for 15-30 minutes. pour a glurp of gas in carb throat and...

Too Easy...Most Air Cooled small engines are not designed to run at Idle or with Shrouds Removed. It's not getting cooling air and is oil starved. Run it at Normal Working RPM or Blow it Up! Also, look for the hidden Rats Nest, Dirt Dauber Nest between Shroud and Head.

That was caused by the key not seated properly when nut was torqued. Crank is probably damaged too. Quick and Dirty Unauthorized Fix: Make sure key is lined up. Drill a 3/16 hole thru the fly and crank,Hammer in a roll pin. works like a champ but no fun if you need to remove. Saves a Not Worth...

Cap shouldn't vibrate off. Check blade for Balance or bent Crankshaft.

Hi Walt, It gets worse.. I didn't even drill all the way, just through half flywheel and crank, didn't want to chance breaking the bit. I was surprised how easy it was to drill through the crank. It was not hard at all. No way to get that pin out now without drilling again!. Did what I had to do...

Buy a cheap electric pump. leave the old pump, electric will force gas thru it. works great.

Those pumps are trouble and always will be. Ethanol. Rebuild every season or else. Get an electric pump off amazone or fleabay (9.00) problem solved. leave other hoses hooked up, no problems, starts first time every time 18.5 brigs runs better than ever. Sorry, forgot how I hooked up electric...

Loctite can't hurt, depends on roll pin fit and if you need to remove flywheel ever again. heat will loosen loctite but burn up magneto.

Been There done this: align crank and flywheel. drill through or most way through I think I used 3/16 install roll pin. It won't break again. Yes it works and beats replacing crankshaft. Use a good drill bit. don't break it off in hole unless all the way through and don't have a roll pin.

Sheared Key. If it's too buggered up to fix, put flywheel in correct position, drill through fly and crank install roll pin or similar.

Dies when HOT Won't restart until cooled down? Replace Coil. Use OEM don't be tempted by cheap aftermarket coils they may last a season if lucky.