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Update: I fired the machine up today and it started pretty easily and seemed to run well. I let it run for about 15 minutes. It was very cold out today, about 32°. I had sprayed fogging oil in the cylinder so there was a normal big cloud of smoke at first, but that went away after a couple of...

Well then fingers crossed I really don't need a new engine! I suppose the best option if I did would be to buy the harbor freight engine and bring it to a machine shop and see if they could mill the shaft somehow to make it fit

That would be perfect for what I'm looking for. Because not only do I want a high and low forward, and a reverse, but I also want to put an open differential on this machine so I can actually take corners without the worlds worse understeer. AND I want to hook it up to my factory CVT. It would...

"Now some do have a multi speed differentials as you choose low, high, and reverse ranges." tell me more about THAT. The MOST ideal solution for me would be some type of gearbox that has a normal forward, a low range forward, and a reverse, all hooked up to a regular old automatic CVT belt drive!

So what do you do? Is there really no way to replace the motor if it was dead? Or would I have to try to transplant this one's crankshaft into a different motor?

I'm sure there are more than one answer. I know for a fact that some have gearboxes with multiple speeds and reverse. And zero-turns are probably using either hydrostatic or a gas-electric direct drive type system. But is there another option? I made a post in a go kart forum about how it would...

So I've replaced the timing gear and a few other things. But I haven't tested the motor yet, the machine is still all apart, its going to take me a few more hours to get it all reassembled and ready for a test. I'm hoping everything goes great, and I get a bunch of years out of this machines...

I like the permanent-ness of paint though. And honestly i'm very tempted to do this to every tool I own that has sizing imprinted on it. BUT do I really want to spend all that time doing it? Mehhhhh. If I ever have a slow week, maybe ill do it.

For those impressed with the "paint" technique, i got the idea from Adam Savage, the mythbuster. He used this technique to make new metal things look old and used - when making movie props in his previous life. And then more recently I've seen people use the same technique to highlight the sizes...

Lol, well in my defense, my model number was literally invisible before i sanded it and painted it :P

If this were a lawnmower or a snowblower I probably would. But it's a yard vacuum that probably runs for all of 3 hours per year. So I'm just going to cross my fingers and keep the old cam.

Yup thats the same number i came up with on the B&S site. That makes me wonder if mine failed due to overheating, or maybe it just failed, all on its own. Plastic can be brittle, but then again if its always soaked in oil and never sees ANY UV light at all, it probably won't get brittle too...

Finally! I have the number! To my plain eyes, there were no numbers imprinted on that sheet metal flywheel cover. But people insisted it was there. So I put a round wire brush on my drill and scoured it down to bare metal and wouldn't you know it, some barely visible numbers started to reveal...

Now I'm going to have to go look at it again. In the photo, now I am starting to feel like I see something super subtle. But in person, with my own eyes, it looked blank. And I spent a long time looking over that shield again and again, looking at every speck of it. One more close look I guess...

The cam looks fine, but the timing gear had some damage. There was some debris around the air flow areas. Not enough that I would think it would cause it to overheat, but maybe it doesn't take as much as I thought. It's certainly worth replacing that timing gear and seeing though. ... IF i am...

I have machines from the mid 90s that still have their printed labels on there. This is the first machine I've ever come across that had no marking anywhere at all.

Its not there. That whole metal cover that goes over the flywheel has zero characters imprinted anywhere.Then inside doesn't have any surface rust, and it makes it much more clear that theres nothing imprinted anywhere. This is truly a ghost motor.

Ok I pulled the plastic cover off, the metal cover and this is the ONLY numbers I could find. They don't appear to be the right format though. I scoured the rest of the motor and couldn't find any other numbers anywhere.

Here are two exterior photos of the motor if that helps. No model labels to be found :/

I'm back over there now, so I can look for a model number on the engine. However I've looked everywhere and can't find anything except some stickers on the fuel tank that don't appear to be model numbers. Any ideas where I can find a model number for the engine so i can order up somer parts...

Where are you seeing four different gears, I'm only seeing one? HOWEVER the one timing gear I'm seeing does not look like my timing gear. So I'm thinking thats not the exact correct engine.

I want to keep this brief but I also want to give you the full backstory. I need help assessing what happened to this machine, and what it's current condition is. This is a Craftsman Yardvac with a B&S 675 engine. It was in my neighbors yard never being used for 15 years or so, and one day he...

Success! I drilled out the hole with a 29/64" bit. Re-tapped it with a 1/2-20 tap. Then put some grease on the bolt so it would be good and lubricated. Then I got it pretty tight, then gave the impeller a few hard taps. Then tightened the bolt a little more and it popped right off! So that part...

So I stripped out the 7/16" hole and now I'm about to go buy a 1/2" tap and bolt to try again. But I just started thinking, is that going to be big enough? Or should I go up to 9/16th to make sure i'm getting full new threads with no sign of the old threads?

I have not had time to work on this again, but I hopefully will soon. I will be tapping half inch and using a bolt. So heres the question..... Given how the impeller is sort of just stuck on there, does it make sense, instead of just cranking the bolt down and hoping it pops free, does it make...

Coarse thread will give me bigger threads to push wish, BUT fine threads will give me MORE threads to push with. And yes I believe it is aluminum.

I thought about penatrating oil, but I don't think theres any way to actually get it near the contact zone the way this thing is assembled. You'd have to spray it on the shaft, above the impeller blade. Basically you'll have to remove it to be able to access it to spray oil on it, so that you...

Does anyone have any thoughts on whether I should go with the coarse threading or fine threading on the new 1/2" hole and bolt? I think the options are 1/2"-13 and 1/2"-20.

We'll never know for sure if the original threads were damaged or ok (they looked good to me in person). But they're definitely damaged now! as they sit in a pile of dirt on my floor.

WELP, this didn't work out so well. I tapped the hole, then put in my spacer to push against, and then my 7/16" bolt and once it got snug, I started tightening it down and instead of popping the impeller off, it stripped the hole right out! So yeah at this point, I'm kind of wishing I had just...

NAPA had the tap for $4.50 and I am now the proud owner of it. However if I start messing with this now, its going to turn into a whole huge thing, so I'm going to wait until the end of the week. I did VERY briefly play around with hand threading it in, and strangely the bolt goes in a lot...

Tonight I took an imprint of the threads in the hole with some hot glue, and when I held it up to the bolt (7/16-20) I was very surprised that it lined up perfectly! It looks like its a little off on the left edge but thats just an optical illusion due to camera angle. It really was a perfectly...

Yeah thats what I'm thinking at this point. I don't do thread tapping very often so I'm trying to decide how much of an investment in taps to make. I can just get an individual tap or I can get a whole SAE set or I can get a whole combo SAE & metric set. Decisions decisions. Next weekend I...

Hmm well maybe I'll try my crayon thing and see if the threads are close, or way off, and go from there.

I don't own a tap kit, I've been asking around to borrow one but coming up empty so i'll probalby go buy a HF kit after the holidays. I also had the idea of getting a stick of hot glue or a crayon, an slightly melting it into the threads. The once it cools, popping it off and then comparing...

Please see the previous 5 posts.

I'm not looking for that, I'm looking for the threading in the impeller itself, that you would use with the removal tool or with the right sized bolt, to remove the impeller.

Are you referring to the removal tool or the bolt that holds the impeller on to the motor?

Hmm I guess I'll have to consider re-tapping the whole, that might be the easiest solution.

My local hardware store has two big isles of all nuts and bolts. But alas, they only had even numbered mm bolts, no 11mm at all. I grabbed a 10mm just to see but it fit right through the hole without engaging the threads at all.

The whole project will be a youtube video some day. I don't have any idea what the camshaft is going to look like, but what I do know is: The camshaft is plastic The engine was running well when I first started it up. It died and had zero compression when I tried to restart it. The compression...

Hmm maybe I'll go pick up an M11-1.25 then and see if that fits any better.

I guess, it could be.

Yeah but what I'm saying is that I can't get this bolt to thread into the initial threads that it is supposed to engage with. Once I can get it to engage, I can throw any old rod in the hole to act as a spacer/pusher so I don't to any damage to the threads on the motor shaft. But I can't do that...

Yeah I don't get it, 7/16-20 is what this bolt is and the threads aren't right at all. YOu have to go through the impeller threads to get to the crankshaft threads so I'm nowhere near those.

I don't need the whole tool. I just need a simple short bolt to thread i to teh impeller. I can use a piece of rod or something else to be the "insert" it pushes against. Plus the reviews on that thing to not look good. And it looks like there are more than one threading these impellers have so...

So I watched a bunch of youtube videos for removing the impeller off my machine. This is so I can ultimately take the motor off and open it up because I think it overheated and melted it's camshaft. But anyway.... Multiple videos say to use a 7/16" - 20 bolt. So I go pick one up and when I go...

Ok maybe finally on to something! I took the valves out, inspected everything. They both seem to have clean rings around them, and they seem to be seating very well into the cylinder head. HOWEVER the intake valve does seem to be a little sticky! I don't know how much stick is "normal" for...

So I finally had time today to take this apart again. I took the head off hoping to find a bad gasket. But sadly, it looked fine. The piston and cylinder walls also looked fine. Of course I couldn't see the state of the piston ring from here, it looks like I'd have to remove the motor and take...

How would a bad head gasket cause blow by out of the crank vent? Wouldn't the hot gasses still have to get by the piston rings to get in to the crank case?