B&S 675 Series Camshaft Problems? Overheat? What did I do?

[l008com]

Finally! I have the number! To my plain eyes, there were no numbers imprinted on that sheet metal flywheel cover. But people insisted it was there. So I put a round wire brush on my drill and scoured it down to bare metal and wouldn't you know it, some barely visible numbers started to reveal themselves.

At that point, you could see them, but not well. So I got a few drops of white paint and smeared it all over the flap of metal. Then I wiped it off, and the paint stayed in the holes. The end result:



FINALLY! I can order the parts I need and move on!

 

[StarTech]

So it turned out to be the engine I post back in post #2. According the date code it use the 797521 which replaced the 795755; unless, you a woodruff present. I can verify that the 797521 is a metal gear as it been laying in my inventory since 7/2014.

Appearly Briggs did try a plastic gear and had to supersede it to a metal due to failures.

 

[l008com]

Yup thats the same number i came up with on the B&S site. That makes me wonder if mine failed due to overheating, or maybe it just failed, all on its own. Plastic can be brittle, but then again if its always soaked in oil and never sees ANY UV light at all, it probably won't get brittle too fast. It is tempting to replace the camshaft too just so I never have to open this thing up again. But I don't think I will, it should be fine.

 

[kbowley]

If it were me and I went through the trouble of tearing the engine down. I would replace the cam along with the gear. It isn't expensive and is worth the peace of mind.

 

[l008com]

If this were a lawnmower or a snowblower I probably would. But it's a yard vacuum that probably runs for all of 3 hours per year. So I'm just going to cross my fingers and keep the old cam.

 

[ILENGINE]

Finally! I have the number! To my plain eyes, there were no numbers imprinted on that sheet metal flywheel cover. But people insisted it was there. So I put a round wire brush on my drill and scoured it down to bare metal and wouldn't you know it, some barely visible numbers started to reveal themselves.

At that point, you could see them, but not well. So I got a few drops of white paint and smeared it all over the flap of metal. Then I wiped it off, and the paint stayed in the holes. The end result:

View attachment 70406

FINALLY! I can order the parts I need and move on!

That picture reminds me of another person that claimed there was no model number on his engine, and to prove it posted a perfect crystal clear picture of the model number. And he still didn't realize that he had taken a picture of and posted the model number.

 

[l008com]

Lol, well in my defense, my model number was literally invisible before i sanded it and painted it

 

[StarTech]

Lol, well in my defense, my model number was literally invisible before i sanded it and painted it

But we thought you were Superman with x-ray vision.

Seriously this is what we have to deal with on a regular basis. Not as bad as those with missing decal stickers. These I tend to stamp model/spec into the crankcase if I work on the engine. It and my recording the info in the customer file has saved me many times.

Kawasaki an Kohler are two worst ones for missing or faded out decals.

 

[slomo]

Must say the white paint is brilliant. I was worried when you said wire wheel. I would of tried a rust converter first, once I saw the numbers LOL. Or a brass bristled wheel. I use an oily red shop rag to highlight those numbers. That paint leaves zero guess work. Nice job.

 

[Oddjob]

Must say the white paint is brilliant. I was worried when you said wire wheel. I would of tried a rust converter first, once I saw the numbers LOL. Or a brass bristled wheel. I use an oily red shop rag to highlight those numbers. That paint leaves zero guess work. Nice job.

I collect and use old woodworking tools, so I have some experience bringing back serial numbers and etches on saw blades. I gulped when I read that Yardwork John had used a wire wheel. But have to admit, his finished product is fabulous! I would have used 300 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat sanding block with mineral spirits as a lubricant, and slowly and gently tried to rub just the corrosion away and not the numbers. Then if necessary, I use a piece of soft white chalk to highlight the numbers.