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Yes they do have metal drive gears, with plastic geared drive wheels. Mower blades blow stuff everywhere and a lot goes behind the plastic inner cover into drive system as you well now. Dirt, sand and plastic don't mix. With this being said you really can't stop parts from wearing out. Make's...

Toro plastic wheels are the same as all s/p mowers. To keep wheels from waring out fast just try to stay off the sidewalk or cement while using s/p drive. They will last longer. Cheaper to get new wheels then have to repair frozen bushing after 3 years with a Honda. Still both are good mowers.

The rear axle has small seals at each end inside the bushings that wear out and all the dirt and water from the grass gets inside the bushings that cause this problem. You can't lube them because of the seals. But worth a try maybe after every time being used.

It takes about 3 hours to fix the rusted bushings, just to happen in another year.

I would keep the Toro because in the long run the rear wheel drive on the Honda axle will start to rust at the bushings and will be hard to pull backwards. Toro will never do this. Both are good mowers until this happens to the Honda, and it will happen.

I agree with Star tech. I do it the same way. Winter is a different story.

Simple, just cut hose at end of fuel filter nipple at tank side and install filter with new 8"s of hose to the fuel pump with new clamps.

Does it have a CO2 sensor?

Make sure battery is fully charged to do this simple test. To check voltage output you need to make sure you have 12 volts going into voltage regulator, this wire comes from ign switch when key is on, if 12 dc volts is not present check for short. Not the 2 white wires coming from under...

Intake could have a crack on it. The intake seal at cyl head hard and not sealing, intake gaskets are wrong or installed incorrectly, carb is not clean enough the jets are still dirty, clean the top plastic jet and port in carb and mixture screw making sure small black o rings on plastic jet are...

Dip stick o ring missing?

Shucks, I'm old to. Sorry.

Well, I'm not perfect, Did make a mistake once before. The only person that said everything perfect is no longer with us. GOD. In any case just look for the slight movement opening at a valve that will tell if the compression release is working. Or should I say INTAKE valve. Really? But you are...

When you adjusted the valves at 0.004 did you check to make sure compression release is working correctly. Check for 1 valve rocker movement just a tad, exhaust side, if no movement compression release on camshaft is bad. You will need to replace camshaft to repair it.

Forgot to mention that some parts stores might sell this but I get it at local GM dealer and Ford dealers parts dept. About 25.00$ but last for a year or 2 depending on usage. It is reusable so just put into a small glass bottle with tight lid for another cleaning.

Hey PS, and all other diy folfs, the best way to clean any brass jets or needle seats besides replacing is to purchase a can of gm x66-1/12302500 carb tune up condition clearer, hard to find so get the spray can from Ford or GM parts department. It is a spray but when put into a half cut...

A click sound is telling you that you have low voltage. Check battery voltage, under load with battery tester you should have at least 9 volts. If load test is good next test voltage with volt meter at blue wire at solenoid for at least 8-9 volts when turning key to start. If good voltage is...

Try to locate OEM camshaft kit, they are built stronger to last. Not hard to replace, Set timing marks, put back together, adjust valves TDC compression stroke 0.004. Both cylinders the same way on twin motors. Should start fast if all other starting system is in good working order.

If you still have old seal that's still in good condition put it next to new seal and tap your pipe or whatever you are using to push new seal into place. Then pop old seal out.

When engine stalls, try to restart soon as possible with starter fluid or something 2t2. If engine returns and continues to run then the ign coil is most likely good. If it starts to crap out when engine is up to temp then you have a fuel related problem. Check fuel flow into carb, Tecumseh...

Ok Folks. Just try to be nice here! I thought this was a helper's when needed page, not a kiss my a-- thing. Nothing get's fixed without understanding the total problem. He said She said not good. I do know this, it's all good but keep hard feelings nice.

I do agree with Star Tech. Thumps up.

Correct, snap ring came off for some reason. Remove rear trans, remove bolts holding cases together, since pulley shaft is already out no big deal, keep it out. find pry groves at each side of trans, lift top half up and off, making sure you don't lose check ball and spring for shift selector...

Hey BB, 1st disconnect plug at pto and put 12 volts to plug going into trans, should hear click. If no click check for good ground with test light. I found broken wires at pto clutch on 2 tractors. You will need to drain fluid from gear box, remove seat top trans cover, you will see the wires at...

Maybe Star tech missed something I said, But he seems to be really good at helping folks in needed times. Snow will melt into water and rust is coming and will always be a problem, but I do read post and let it be.

It is a snow blower that moves frozen water right? When I use my snow blower a lot of snow blows everywhere and it lands all over the blower, hot motor and melting snow makes water that can get into anything. Rust will come next. Try to clean the blower off with a broom, ect. This will slow down...

Sorry that I forgot to mention to remove the flywheel to remove bolt under it. Just forgot to state it!

Remove engine cover and you will see the 2 bolts holding the starter on. !/2 inch universal socket or use a torque drive socker. Engine removal not needed.

I d o get you, small black plastic handle. I work for a dealer and we do sell that model. You really don't need to move them to a push position unless you have a problem like the drive belt comes off or you get stuck witch does happen. Sorry for misunderstanding or question.

Ok, what's the reason to go from a vac type to a electric type pump? You won't get any better results. And vac pumps stop working if engine stalls or stops running, Vav pumps are there for just that reason!

I don't like to guess but from past problems I would go to the ignition system, coil is a great place to start.

Ok now folks, am I the only person who can get down on my prayer bones and move a rod? Or am I missing something! Please advise me. Not trying to be a smart butt, it would take a few hours to make something to replace what's already supplied.

You need to have a vac/pressure test done to confirm no internal or external leaks are present with a soapy liquid to confirm there is no leaks. Sthil Commercial saws are only warrantied for 3 months. If it ran good after carb was replaced and same issue comes back you most likely have a vac...

I use a 2 qt. cleaner. I fill with water to fill line then add 1 cut of Purple Power and 1 shot of Dawn. I always clean carbs, nut/bolts etc before dipping them in cleaner, just with some carb cleaner or 2+2, then blow off dirt. I use heater at 80 degrees. Cleans nice. Don't over dose with...

Install new oem air filter, cost a little more but will work better then some really badly made aftermarket air filters. Some are made with thick hard paper and engine can't breath good.

JD mowers have a ground from battery to the frame, that have a connector in the middle of this black wire that will corrode inside black plastic connectors. Clean or replace this ground cable.

Belt guide missing for the small pulley and the tensioner spring needs to be put in correct place at frame.

The pic shows the tensioner spring is not hooked up to the frame at the correct spot and you are missing the belt guide at the smaller v pulley that keeps the belt on pulley.

ok now. I've repaired many of these heads in the past. Remove head, the guide has about 3/16" at top of head under spring. You can buy a set screw package at harbor fright. Tap guide back into head this amount, Find the thickest place on head between cooling fins and drill a hole until the drill...

Must remove carb and in ultrasonic cleaner, remove the air mixture screw also so after 15 minutes of cleaning use compressor to blow out all ports. Replace all intake gaskets or seals. This should fix surging problem, and adjust mixture screw at idle if needed.

Have you ever heard motor run? The plastic gear do wear out, and there's reasons why, and since the cover and flywheel will need to come off to replace the starter make sure flywheel key is not damaged, have a full charged battery, no gas in cylinders and all flywheel teeth are there valves are...

well does throttle work now ?

Check to make sure you put the gov rod in the correct hole.

Well the round orange or black seals are used with plastic intake manifolds and the cardboard / paper type are used with metal type intakes. Best to get new rubber o rings at local mower shop. If reusing them use a tiny amount of silicone sealer. Just a little.

Maybe if you have enough room just add a small inline fuel filter with new hose and hose clamps.

Second pic because you need enough room to install the gov linkage also.

Any updates

A bad pto switch can be the problem or a broken wire end inside the pto switch harness. Look closely at each gold color wire end foe a 1/2 missing tab.

The ignition switch is bad. Replace with the correct switch not one that looks the same!

Wire ends do break inside pto harness plug! Look closely and maybe you will see half the gold wire end missing.