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One quick question. How long should I expect to see very fine metal filings after having gas in my oil? I'd changed the oil after all the work I did, and then changed it after about 15 minutes of run time again. This picture is after the 15 minutes, the second change after all this happened. No...

Mowed for the first time with it today and it was a night and day difference. Used to bog down when I’d engage the PTO and now it doesn’t even notice it. Throws grass twice as far, cuts easier and engages the trans with much more ease. Runs stronger like a brand new engine.

I actually did this right after I read your previous post haha. I have some blue loctite gel and used that. Should be cured by the next time I use it.

Good to know. I’m going to verify later but I have full throttle set at 3,300rpm right now. Set the screw to about the same length as the previous and fortunately it matched right up. Good to know about those top screws, I’ll be putting some loctite on those for sure.

Crazy thing is the can was pretty slimy inside like Forest mentioned could happen. It’s never seen ethanol, so I’m guessing I got old gas last time around. I know one place I won’t be getting gas from anymore.

Final update...hopefully. I was finally able to get a carb to hold pressure. Installed a new needle valve, still had a leak. Tried a pump from a different carb, didn't work...tried from another and that worked. Installed new governor control bracket which was a lot more tight. Took off the fuel...

Sounds good. I’ll be out of town but when I’m back I’ll do those things you mentioned. It is actually a different muffler on it, but the youtube video in the video about the governor is an instructional one I found. It’s hard to come by the stock muffler that fits the MTD frame at a reasonable...

digging a little bit and I see gas pooled in both cylinders. Going to keep looking through things some more.

I did check to make sure the bolt was tight and that the governor was turned to the correct position when tight as well. This is the procedure I did.

It can take about 10 seconds of cranking then it sputters to a start. I pull the left wire and it still runs, along with the right wire with the left attached. The left shocks me when the right doesn’t. Tried with two different coils, same thing. Getting spark at both plugs. Gaps have been set...

For sure. Here’s a link to it running. Takes a while to start as well. I also did realize the needle valve is very slowly leaking, so I’m going to be taking it apart and working on that. Only had a short bit to work on it so haven’t been able to mess with anything yet like the throttle. Also, I...

Yep, going to be looking into a few things. One thing I noticed is the linkage seems pretty loose with the governor. When at low idle it won’t rest against the idle screw. Going to try to figure that out. Maybe the gov screw loosened up on me somehow or something like that. If not that I’ll go...

I was just able to run it. It started up and runs well at medium idle. Turn it up and it surges real hard. I don’t see liquid gas when looking down the carb, both while running and when off. I do see gas settled in the manifold below the carb though. Is the 40 micron filter I replaced my old...

Quick update. Almost to the point I can run the engine. I got a new muffler with a slight variance in the inlet spacing so I had to cut it. Having my neighbor take it to his work and weld it up for me. After a redneck valve job it has cold compression of 110 and 100. Clearances are all to spec...

Thanks for the info, I’m looking to move this direction. Probably put a pcv valve on the hose for the crank case pulse and cap the pump pulse inlet. I’m guessing your lights must run on dc power? Mine are AC so I’m going to probably tap into the ignition wiring. As you said, who cares about that...

Thank you again. I’ll update in about a week when I’m able to get to everything. Good info on diagnosing. The tank is almost completely empty so I’ll probably just run the rest of the fuel into a tank I have for bad gas. Maybe the last batch I got from the gas station was old fuel or something...

I was wondering more if it is normal to see a little drop over that long, or if it is indefinite amount of time it holds psi. When trying to research I see most people only test for about 10 minutes. I’ve worked a lot on my vehicles, but I’m new to working on small engines. Sorry for all the...

How long should I leave it sitting to check for a leak? So far I’ve sat my carbs few hours each and saw no leak. I then sat one over night with a 1 psi drop over 10 hours.

Thank you. Set it and will check on it after a while.

Quick question. Got my hands on a pressure tester. How do I test these specific carbs? Having a hard time figuring it out…unless all the needle valves are bad and hold no pressure. Hooked it up to the inlet to the fuel pump on the carb but it won’t build pressure.

Thanks for all the tips and advice. I did replace all the fuel lines a few years ago, but I the filter is past due. I always use non-ethanol with some seafoam added to try to help keep everything clean. Try to keep the fuel system as clean as I can. I’ll look into trying to pressure test and see...

I ran a new carb and yet again it was loading the intake again…that or I should have removed the intake first before testing it. Once I started uninstalling the intake manifold the low side of the intake dumped gas. I don’t have a mightyvac so I can’t text the needle right now. I’ll order a new...

I got a complete gasket set off eBay that was just delivered. Going to replace different gaskets like the intake and spacer gaskets to the carb. Just figured that while I’m at it I might as well do this. There was gas inside the intake under the carb so I’m guessing something is still faulty...

good question, I say appear because the the oil is about 1/8” up the dipstick when I check it about an hour after use. It’s not a lot and it’s hard to smell gas, but I don’t know any other reason why it would be increasing. I’m thinking this would be more from a leak down rom the carb after...

Sounds great. I almost have all the supplies to work through some of this again. Just waiting on USPS. Would you suggest unassigned oil, running a bit, then repeating the process a few times? Maybe using an engine flush or something like sea foam?

It appears I’m getting fuel in my oil. I thought maybe it was a carb so I replaced and I still have the oil level increasing after a mow. I just checked compression and one cylinder is 95psi and the other is 100psi. Any thoughts as to what the cause might be? it is a twin opposed Briggs...

Just came across this. I started a topic on the Briggs engine forum about installing an electric fuel pump. Did you go out the outlet from the electric pump through the inlet to the carb pump and just cap the pulse input?

From what I’ve been able to find, my AC circuit runs 5A while the DC runs a 3A charge to the battery. Can’t find much info on it but it’s the Briggs 691063. The pumps I’ve been looking at draw around 1-2A. Gravity fed would be awesome, but unfortunately I can’t accomplish it with my setup.

Sounds great, thanks for all the advice. I was wondering, which pulse pump did you use? I hear people say it can be particular which pump works best with a certain carb.

Great, thank you for the help. When you put the 10/32 bolt in the old pump outlet, did you use sealant on the threads? Did the npt seal fine by itself on the 5/16” barb fitting?

I have a Briggs opposed twin 17hp and I’m looking to potentially swap to electric fuel pump. Main reason being I hate the design of the pulse tube going to the crank case (potentially thinning oil with leak). I use high grade ethanol free gas and baby my carbs, but these carbs seem to give me...

Thanks for the reply! I forgot to update. I didn’t have a way of pressing it out, but after much persuasion I was able to hammer it out. Have a rebuild kit arriving today with new pin and springs and it should be good as new.

Any tips? I am using a 1/2” deep socket against the retainer, and I have used quite a few different approaches with hammering the pin from the top. It is pretty rusty. I soaked it pretty well in PB Blaster. I already got a replacement part and want to use it if I can instead of a whole new unit.

I currently own a rider with an opposed twin. Many hours, though I don’t know the actual amount. Smokes on startup and burns a little oil, I’m guessing piston rings are worn. I’m thinking an engine swap might be in my future, and I was wondering a couple things. I would like to keep this mower...