Just little bit of info and you may already know this:
You say your replaced the carb and still seeing the same thing.
If the engine oil is really clean and even hot and thin you can sometimes get fooled by the oil level by eyeballing. Sounds strange but true. Try this method for getting a precise level as gauged on the dipstick. Take a white clean paper towel and when you remove the dip stick wipe oil off, re-install dipstick and then lay the dipstick on the paper towel with the white towel flat and the dipstick flat level. The oil will leave a exact oil mark impression on the towel. Do not drag the dipstick, just press against the paper towel.
If the gas is going into the intake manifold when you turn the engine off you can see such on that model if you will park the tractor level, take the air filter off and then take a flashlight and look into the carb throat about every 15 min's and you can see if any raw gas is in the manifold at the bottom of the carb If the needle and seat is leaking the engine will usually be hard to re-start after few min's because it's flooded. Also usually if the needle/seat is leaking on the old twin L-heads the engine won't idle good and you can see lots of gas coming out the carb ventura when the engine is idling.
To check the needle/seat on the old Briggs 3 screw and 4 screw carbs, remove the carb from the engine, use a mityvac and with the carb upside down apply 5 psi pressure and it should hold this pressure for long time. If not holding pressure do not immediately assume it's the needle/seat, use soap/water spray bottle and check the fuel pump edges and the pulse port. If no bubbles seen then go to the needle/seat area. A very slow leaking needle seat (1psi in 5 min's) usually will not flood a running engine or flood the crankcase if the gas tank fuel outlet is below the carb.
At same time you are removing the air filter pull the pulse hose off the bottom of the fuel pump on the bottom of the carb. Be careful here because if any gas drips out it will hit onto the hot exhaust area. If any gas at all comes out the fuel pump diaphragm is bad. If it's a 4 screw fuel pump I re-build them with the carb in place. If it's a 3 screw pump the carb needs to go to the work bench due to small springs, etc, inside.
You might consider draining the oil about 1/8 inch low on the dip stick with the engine level and then later when you check the level park the tractor in the same place. The oil level on those engines can vary by quite a bit by not being in same level position and also it's common thing to see a really high level after the engine has cooled.
Installing a white or red Briggs in-line fuel filter is a good thing on those engines.
Just curious?
What gaskets are you replacing?
You say your replaced the carb and still seeing the same thing.
If the engine oil is really clean and even hot and thin you can sometimes get fooled by the oil level by eyeballing. Sounds strange but true. Try this method for getting a precise level as gauged on the dipstick. Take a white clean paper towel and when you remove the dip stick wipe oil off, re-install dipstick and then lay the dipstick on the paper towel with the white towel flat and the dipstick flat level. The oil will leave a exact oil mark impression on the towel. Do not drag the dipstick, just press against the paper towel.
If the gas is going into the intake manifold when you turn the engine off you can see such on that model if you will park the tractor level, take the air filter off and then take a flashlight and look into the carb throat about every 15 min's and you can see if any raw gas is in the manifold at the bottom of the carb If the needle and seat is leaking the engine will usually be hard to re-start after few min's because it's flooded. Also usually if the needle/seat is leaking on the old twin L-heads the engine won't idle good and you can see lots of gas coming out the carb ventura when the engine is idling.
To check the needle/seat on the old Briggs 3 screw and 4 screw carbs, remove the carb from the engine, use a mityvac and with the carb upside down apply 5 psi pressure and it should hold this pressure for long time. If not holding pressure do not immediately assume it's the needle/seat, use soap/water spray bottle and check the fuel pump edges and the pulse port. If no bubbles seen then go to the needle/seat area. A very slow leaking needle seat (1psi in 5 min's) usually will not flood a running engine or flood the crankcase if the gas tank fuel outlet is below the carb.
At same time you are removing the air filter pull the pulse hose off the bottom of the fuel pump on the bottom of the carb. Be careful here because if any gas drips out it will hit onto the hot exhaust area. If any gas at all comes out the fuel pump diaphragm is bad. If it's a 4 screw fuel pump I re-build them with the carb in place. If it's a 3 screw pump the carb needs to go to the work bench due to small springs, etc, inside.
You might consider draining the oil about 1/8 inch low on the dip stick with the engine level and then later when you check the level park the tractor in the same place. The oil level on those engines can vary by quite a bit by not being in same level position and also it's common thing to see a really high level after the engine has cooled.
Installing a white or red Briggs in-line fuel filter is a good thing on those engines.
Just curious?
What gaskets are you replacing?
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