Fuel in Oil

[slomo]

Little heat gun action will remove the red.

We can all thank Joe for some simple thread locker being 8 times the price it once was. Thread locker was cheap when Trump was in office.

 

[rancher_mac]

I’ll be putting some loctite on those for sure.

Red locktite is a big NO NO. red IS THE PERMANENT ONE.

Use green or blue and strange that it's so expensive now days.

You just need enough to keep the screw from backing out own it's own due to the running engine vib's loosening the screw.
If a screw can be backed out with finger pressure once it's loosed it will back out on it own and fall into the carb throat then into the piston/head area eventually.

I've seen it happen MAINLY DUE TO SOMEONE LIMP WRISTING WHEN TIGHTENING AND THEY WILL STRIP EASY ALSO GOING INTO THE MAGNESUM CARB, SO lOCKTITE WORKS GOOD FOR SECURING THEM SCREWS.

No need in using small lock washers just get them screws little bit secure.

I actually did this right after I read your previous post haha. I have some blue loctite gel and used that. Should be cured by the next time I use it.

 

[rancher_mac]

Mowed for the first time with it today and it was a night and day difference. Used to bog down when I’d engage the PTO and now it doesn’t even notice it. Throws grass twice as far, cuts easier and engages the trans with much more ease. Runs stronger like a brand new engine.

 

[Forest#2]

Good to hear you got it going good.
Now you will feel more confident in flogging the engine.

Just some info about that engine/carb on the L-head twins.
This issue will most likely happen later, quite common.
If the engine starts acting like carb is going bad, maybe idle gets erratic, throttle response little rough, engine running rough.
Let the engine cool (because gas will fall onto the hot muffler area under the carb and remove the bowl drain plug and just drain the carb bowl. Watch and don't loose the little thin sealing washer on the bowl bolt, re-install the bolt just snug. Water is trapped in the bottom of the bowl and is coming from a contaminated fuel tank usually and little bit of HEET or equal added to the fuel tank will sometimes cure such for awhile. It only takes small smigen in the carb bowl for an upset. Some of them lawn tractors have a large plastic gas cap and the center of the cap is recessed somewhat and when subjected to water it just stands in the top of the cap and will eventually seep past the cap vent or come from your gas can.
If any moisture ever gets accumulated in the bowl on those type carbs it just stays and for some reason just keeps getting worse but draining will sometimes cure all. Only takes couple minutes and about 75% of time will cure all without removing the carb.
I also keep a eye and ear open for old carbs to repair as spares.
But every once in awhile I run into one of them carbs that just won't repair, usually won't idle smooth. I suspect they have had water inside and probably froze and upset the inside passages. (spare carb is a good thing on those engines)

 

[rancher_mac]

One quick question. How long should I expect to see very fine metal filings after having gas in my oil? I'd changed the oil after all the work I did, and then changed it after about 15 minutes of run time again. This picture is after the 15 minutes, the second change after all this happened. No large metal pieces. There were small pieces of carbon deposits, but nothing that was metal.