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I have a somewhat older Briggs 9hp vanguard engine on a BCS tiller. It was something my neighbor picked up and doesn't know much about it. When he got it, it would run a little bit then die out shortly after starting. I drained and flushed the fuel tank, lines, and filter. I also cleaned the...

I will be taking it apart at some point soon. I need to at the very least replace the gear on the old flywheel. A previous owner must have hit it with a hammer trying to remove it and ruined some of the teeth. I did this on 1990s 8hp briggs engine that didn't have an alternator or electric start...

It lists part number 391983 for it under the electrical starter diagram which appears to have internal magnets but I could be looking it up wrong. But making the assumption that it does have an option for it but didn't come with it, does it seem possible that it could still be added?

I have an older Briggs 8hp engine from 1986 on my simplicity snowblower. It has the electric starter setup for plugging into a wall. I looked up the engine model info and this engine had the option to have an "alternator" setup for lights, heated hand grips, battery, etc. I have a bad engine out...

I second checking the carb by sliding it back away from the engine. As mentioned, it's possable that the fuel pump diagram is bad internally. That would cause fuel to get into the oil, but not really cause a running/rich issue. I had this happen on a twin briggs a few years ago. Do you notice...

There is probably a small hole on the arm closer to the pulley. Usually if I'm trying to figure out what the right spot is, I look at the arm and look for a small hole that shows signs of wear. What I mean by that is, the hole looks rounded or worn over a little on the side indicating that the...

So I realized that I never came back with an update on this mower. (Now that it's a year later). Here's how it played out.. and yes it's gonna sound weird, and not make much sense.. I ended up starting it up several days later to check stuff again and it was still running like it had been. I...

Yes it does, I forgot to mention that I tossed a spark tester on it a couple of times when it started to die out. It's a decent blueish white color.

Take a look at the fuel solenoid on your carburetor, it's the metal cylinder looking thing on the carburetor bowl. It looks like you only have 1 wire going to it. There should be two, one is a power wire and there should be a ground going to it as well. Being that I can only see 1 wire going to...

I have a 2 stroke lawn boy push mower that was made in 1998. It's a pro gold series with electric start and self propelled. Anyway.. a person I know gave it to me and it had sat for awhile and wouldn't start. I went through the carb and cleaned it well. It will start on the first pull and...

Well, I think I figured it out. Was out there earlier messing with it and I suddenly stopped getting spark from the new coil. I found a good used one I had and put that one in and the glowing exhaust pipe issue is gone now. I set and spaced it the same way as the other one so I'm guessing the...

It also seems to pop through the intake a bit now too when throttling up quick

I idled it for a few min then let it sit for about 5min before washing it. If I pull the plug wire on the other side so it only runs on the side thats running hot, it's more noticeable in how much the engine drops off as compared to me pulling the plug off the hot cylinder. When I try to run it...

24 584 36-S is the number I used. I put it back in facing the way I took it out including the wires. Both pins looked the same. I personally don't remember seeing the pipe glow until after I pressure washed the engine around the head and intake manifold.

The coil has slotted holes but only for up and down movement. I set the gap between the coil and flywheel to spec.

I have a Kohler CH22S twin cylinder engine on a Toro lawn tractor. It had a bad ignition coil on the left cylinder from mice chewing the wires. I replaced the coil and now it runs fine. I also power washed the engine block because it was COVERED in grease and other debris. I noticed that when I...

I have a Toro Wheelhorse 522xi lawn tractor with a bad ignition coil. It has a Kohler CH22S engine on it. It looks like I might have to pull the engine to be able to replace the coils because of how it's oriented. I'm not sure how else I could remove the blower housing cover. The engine is a...

I picked up an older Homelite HT-17 hedge trimmer for 65$. It has been sitting for awhile but will fire with fuel in the carb, and overall is complete and in good shape. I will need to rebuild the carb nut overall it looks good. Are these hedge trimmers any good? Hopefully I didn't overpay for...

It looks like maybe the stator is burned or bad?

Sorry it's 030676-00

So I started it up and it basically just gets overloaded by the generator somehow. If I unplug what I think is the voltage regulator it runs fine. If I disconnect one of the wires at the brushes it will also run fine. Unbolting the 3 wires that go to the outlets doesn't get rid of the huge drag...

So I went down to look at the generator. The guy said he was using it briefly and it just wouldn't idle up. They drained the fuel of corse but I was able to start it with what was in the carb bowl. It seemed to idle down but stalled. The govenor seemed to be working so maybe something else. He...

I don't know what briggs was thinking when they designed this. And to make it worse, from what I've seen the gear actrally attaches to the inside of the engine block on the flywheel side. To be honest, these engines look like they are based off the honda gx series engines. The govenor gear and...

Yeah it's usually not a fun project but it wouldn't be my first. Do you know where to find that part? I wasn't able to find it in any of the listing for those engines.

I'm looking at buying a generator for cheap that sounds like it might have a bad govenor internally. Assuming it does, is the governor gear on these replaceable? I don't have the exact engine numbers yet. I know it's a 208cc briggs engine on a 3500watt generator. Doing a general lookup of xr950...

I have a briggs 8hp engine that was made near the end of 1995. It is on a generator I have that runs great and all. I wanted to add the electric start option/charging system to it. I was able to find a flywheel for it used that came off an older 8hp engine. The engine it came off of was on an...

I synchronized the carbs a little while ago today by the book. Made pretty much no difference. I did it 3 times to make sure and it didn't change anything. It does have a fuel pump and it is working correctly. I boiled the carbs a few days ago and no difference. I even put two brand new ones on...

Only difference between these pics and the orginal one is I have the nut and metal spacer in place in these pictures. I know the flywheel isn't under the engine where the belts attach. I'm probably just gonna send this thing down the road. It was free and I'm pretty much done messing with it...

This is the flywheel side on top of the engine

That's the engine flywheel and crank

I don't have a tool for synchronizing them. But I apprently missed a chapter in the repair book about doing it. It looks like it can be done with a feeler gauge and tweeking the rod between the two carbs. I don't have a flow tool either so I haven't been able to compare them, I actually haven't...

So.. I was playing around with the carbs and I disconnected the linkage that connects the two together. This allowed the throttle shafts to be independent from each other. When I did that at idle it didn't seem to surge or pop if I kept them both at idle speeds. Basically what I did was allow...

As far as I can tell the flywheel key looks good.

Slowly putting the choke on seems to make it worse or doesn't really correct it. It will just start to bog down more. It kind of fixes the popping and hunting, but the engine is at the point of running so rich it slows down in rpm and will smoke. So I think it's too rich personally. Spark looks...

So I ended up replacing both cylinder head gaskets anyway as I had the other side from a kit. I lapped all the valves and set them to spec. I have noticed now, that even when its cold at idle and just above it will hunt/surge and pop still and it didn't used to do that. I can't find any vacuum...

That was my thought too. Did that and it held pressure fine, as well as vacuum. No drop offs or leaks, I also put new carbs on with no change either. I used a spark tester similar to the one in the video. It has an adjustable gap and it will jump the gap at almost the furthest setting. Spark...

It seems to go away when using the mower deck but the idle will start to surge once it gets hot. It seems like it's getting too much fuel maybe. Using the choke never seems to make it any better. It will start to run rougher when too much choke is on. I've cleaned and tried new carbs too with no...

It seems like the LH head (of referenced from sitting on the seat) is the issue. But if I run it and clamp of the fuel to the RH carbutor it will stop popping and back firing once the fuel is burned out of it. It will run still but definitely a difference in power and sound. If I keep it running...

So... finally put a new head on this engine. Made almost no difference in how it runs. I literally can't think of anything else. Compression is good, no leaking valves, perfect spark, swapped carbs, coils and plugs, all new gaskets. The cylinder bore looks good and has no scoring or abnormal...

It actually doesn't smoke at all, not even a tiny bit hah. So I did some more digging and found that the intake valve is leaking by the seat. It doesn't always do it but if I push the valve down and release it sometimes it will seal. I tried lapping it in several times and no difference so I'm...

Here is a picture of the seat

So I did a leak down test, didn't really drop more than maybe 15%. Didn't really hear any air coming through the intake or exhaust valve. But I decided to pull the head anyway. I found that the exhaust valve guide is worn. But the valve seat and face look perfect. No abnormal wear or pittin...

I did swap swap plugs too, no change. I haven't had a chance to pull the head yet or do a leak down test. Hopefully today or tomorrow I'll be able to.

I'll try to pull the head today and take a took. The only thing throwing me off a bit is that I can see both rockers on that side move the same amount down on the other cylinder does. It also builds more compression when cranking over too.

Ok so... took the kill wires off both coils the lh head is still the weak cylinder, and almost no change in engine running. I swapped the ignition coils and it didnt change anything either..Could the cylinder head be bad somehow? Cranking psi on LH head (weak cylinder) 90psi Cranking psi on RH...

Thanks for the reply, I will try that tonight and report back.

So.. I'm trying to figure out an issue on a twin cylinder 18hp tecumseh engine. When it's running it seems to run a bit rich and it pops and backfires a bit, mostly at idle speeds. But it will still do it at all speeds. If I take off the plug wire on the left head it almost makes no difference...

I have a mantis tiller that is a bit hard to start and won't run at idle. I usually have to hold it around 1/4 throttle or more. I have put a new plug in as well as a new carb since it sat for several years. After checking compression it's making approximately 70-75psi pulling in over with the...

Well I took the engine apart as a leak down test showed the valves as being good. The exhaust valve cam lobe is pretty much worn down to nothing. I ordered a new cam and the gaskets needed to do the repair. No idea why it was opening a lot more on occasion but I suppose it was just me seeing...

This is the video of the valves, I'm gonna take the engine apart tonight and see what the cam looks like. https://youtube.com/shorts/OkH5l-maT_Y?feature=share