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When you get it to the drive, see if you can jump it off with the truck battery. The shock may have damaged the battery, or shaken a battery terminal loose. Check all 4 battery cable terminals. The engine would have continued to run using the alternator until you turned it off.

Some ideas.... Your mower does have a vacuum operated fuel pump. The diaphragm in these will give up. Some of the pumps allow diaphragm replacement, others you replace the whole unit. Your root problem may be associated with stale ethanol fuel being left in the carb over the winter. A...

Sounds like starter safety interlock system is holding you up. Seat switch, parking brake switch, and control lever switches all need to tell the starter it's OK to begin. Either you forgot something simple (like applying the parking brake) or (this is a long shot) one of the switches got...

Several ideas... How old is the fuel? Ethanol fuel can go stale in as short a time as 6-8 weeks. What happens is that the ethanol comes out of solution with the gasoline and all of a sudden the engine gets a couple of tablespoons of pure alcohol... which a low compression engine simply can't...

Use a photo editor or Paint to "Crop" the parts of the photo away that aren't important. There is an excellent free program called GIMP that has all the features of PhotoShop, if you want to get that fancy. If you have a photo that doesn't have any portion to cut away, you can use the Scale...

The new Toro v-twins seem fairly bullet proof.

Swapping the carb is an invitation for trouble. At the very least you will VOID any warranty on the new engine. Engine HP is a result of intake port design, valve size, compression ratio, cam timing, ignition timing, and 10 other things. Very little of that is carb. The design and jetting of...

If the problem is debris in the float valve, then it most likely will NOT be a single, solitary piece. Remove the float bowl and you may find an entire collection of smaller particles that made it through the float valve... all collected in the bottom of the bowl. Wipe the bottom of the bowl...

On some mowers that adjustment is right at the base of the steering arms, just before they go into the cowling.

No, that would not completely test the device or the wiring going to the device. A test lamp only tells you voltage is present, and nothing about the available current. For instance, 10V at 1/50A will allow a test lamp to "work", but not much else. Certainly not a PTO. Lets say the PTO...

Gas, Fire, Compression. Those are the Big 3. You found one of those. Go find the other 2.

Fuses don't just "blow" because they crave attention or "give up". So the fuse is NOT the problem, but rather a symptom of the problem. Look at a schematic for the mower and see what that fuse controls. Probably several things connected to that fuse. If there are no obviously burned up items in...

Did you leave Ethanol gasoline in the carb over the winter ? If so, you'll need to rebuild your carb, paying special attention to the low speed fuel passages and jets. You and about 200 of your closest friends all did the same thing.

The condition of the blade and the RPM of the blade probably make the most difference in cut quality, as long as you are comparing equal setups between the 2 mowers. By that I mean, you weren't running the Honda in "mulch mode" while the Yard Machine was running "side chute" mode, where you ...

No, it's at least the 20 virus. :ROFLMAO:

Let me guess... You just took this mower out of storage. It has the fuel in it from last September. And/or you stored it with fuel in the carb. I'm with Darryl. The old, dirty air filter is making up for blocked low-speed jets... which have been clogged by Ethanol fuel during winter storage...

There's a lot of "back-story" missing here. And your location is not in your profile, so we can't even use our imagination to fill it in. >> Did you put this mower away for the winter with this issue, or has it just developed it when you rolled it out for the first mow of the season ?? >> If...

"Could be" lots of things. Let's not play "coulda, shoulda, woulda" until the owner bothers to get back with details.

"Runs, but without power" type problems are typically low float level and/or clogged low-speed passages. Or it could be you simply got a California model that's jetted leaner. All of these issues work against the engine getting that last 5% of fuel needed to "run strong". Spend 30 minutes...

The weight kit that comes around about Thanksgiving and hangs on until February is the one that always gets me.

"When EF Hutton speaks, people listen. But when Mother Nature calls, by God they respond in a hurry !!"

You cannot test a battery at home. Because of its chemical nature, a battery is rarely Good/ Bad like a light bulb or a fuse. They have about 20 states of relative Goodness/ Badness. What can be done with the battery takes some pro testing to determine. Hope this helps.

1. Your mower deck is probably smashed in at some point, allowing the blade to strike it. Lift it up and rotate the blade by hand. It should clear everything by ~3/8 inch. 2. Second guess is that the spindle bearings (if your unit incorporates such) are shot. Maybe the belt pulls the bearings...

Welcome. Lift has to be measured in VERY precise locations. I notice your numbers are almost exactly half those specified, which simply makes me wonder. And wonder. Then rocker arms often multiply the lift of the cam. I've replaced lots of camshafts, but never one worn to half. I'm not doubting...

If you have an Ohm Meter you can check the individual switches to be working correctly. (Do Not start the mower.) Find each switch and disconnect the 2 wires. Attach the meter to the switch. When the switch is actuated (for instance P-brake taken On-Off) there should be an abrupt ON-OFF reading...

Ideas... Blocked fuel tank breather. Air can't can't enter, thus fuel can't leave. Ignition coil heat sensitive. Ignition control unit heat sensitive. Valve lash too tight. - See if it starts up 15-30 seconds after loosening the gas cap. - Check for spark by laying the spark plug on the cyl...

Between the Seat, Parking Break, and Control Arms there is a highly defined sequence to run the mower. Check your owner's manual again. On my Exmark it is: 1. driver in seat, 2. crank engine, 3. p-break OFF, 4. control arms can come in. If I don't move my control arms all the way out when...

Starters only engage the flywheel during the "cranking process". Afterwards they disengage. So the starter pinion should NOT be touching the flywheel at all while stopped or running. That's normal.

Then trace why your ignition suddenly quit. Water in the kill button ?? Throttle in the wrong position ?? Broken wire ?? Ignitions don't suddenly quit. There's an 85% chance it's something you did while cleaning. I'm not scolding you... that's just the way it is, brother.

If you KNOW that spray can be used as "starter fluid", then OK. I have no such experience. Confirm your suspicions with the plug out and laying on the cyl head.

The plug will be wet with fuel after a short "attempt to crank" session, if the carb is acting correctly. When the plug is out and laid on the cyl head, you should be able to see a bright blue spark day or night.

The fuel tank is above the carb, so fuel flows by gravity from the tank to the carb. In the fuel line between the tank and carb you'll want a 1) fuel shut off valve, and 2) a fuel filter. If rust formed in the empty tank during long storage, then particles could travel to the carb. That trash...

Ravenman - Very difficult for a starter to be "temperature dependent", unless 15yo grease on the bearings has oxidized and gotten hard. That's much more of a classic motorcycle issue than lawn mower. A battery is much more likely to be temperature dependent. But it should be 100% at ~68F and...

The first place to look is always at the just completed work. Your first level of diagnosis is always these 3 things: Fire, Compression, and Fuel. The second level is the timing of those first 3 items. You wrote quite a bit (thank you), but missed all the needed details. Example: You replaced...

Agreed. Mower ignitions can play havoc with newer digital meters. Best to use an old analog meter.

Hard to pinpoint the exact fault. The OP said he assembled it. No telling what all that entails. Then the store obviously does some assembling. Do they have a mower guy, or did they grab a "stock boy" and say, "Do this !" Obviously it's got to go back to the store unless the OP is capable of...

If you had a very high oil level and had also replaced the boots, then oil would indeed be able to leak out at the wheel. As I remember, a minor amount of oil is supposed to be in the boot to lubricate the sliding gear reduction unit AND one of the rear wheel bearings. (The other is lubricated...

It sounds to me like the rectifier might be compromised. 1 blown diode in the 4-way bridge would reduce the charge current by 1/2. Thus, everything is fine as long as nothing (head lamps, PTO, disco light ball, George Foreman electric grill) is turned ON. In that scenario the diminished charge...

I'm sure it's simple... most likely the V-belt is twisted the wrong direction.

Agreed. Craftsman ain't the same Craftsman we all grew up with. Someone bought the name and branding rights from Sears and is simply re-branding cheaper mowers. Do your daughter a BIG favor. Go get the Toro at a dealership.

This write-up is unclear. This is the way I read this... 1. Everything is fine. Engine will run and idle just great. No problems starting or running. 2. Then PTO is engaged. 3. Something gets "hot". Engine gets hot ? PTO gets hot ? Belts get hot ? More details needed. How do you know it's...

Vital spark of heavenly flame ! Quit, oh quit this mortal frame: Trembling, hoping, lingering, flying, --- Oh the pain, the bliss of dying ! -- Alexander Pope (1688–1744)

Correct. Ripped out wires is the symptom, not the problem.

Several things could cause that. All related to "tuning issues"... Old fuel. Is this fuel left over from last year ? That's the No.1 no-no. Carb needs idle mixture adjustments, or "idle circuit" inside carb is Old spark plug, plug fouling, plug burned to wide spark gap, other plug issues...

>> Was there a wash down recently, where water could have gotten into the fuel ? I'm thinking maybe you hit it with the garden hose to knock the pollen off and didn't think anything of it. That would explain the run, then no-run scenario. It does not explain the apparent loss of electrical...

If the tank is above the carb, then YES... if... while you have the hose disconnected you check for fuel flow by letting a couple of tablespoons of fuel squirt out of the hose. However, the pump may also serve the disguised purpose of being a automatic fuel cut off. With the tank higher than...

You shouldn't need to take the engine apart !! :ROFLMAO:

I don't suggest you stop the mower that way ! :ROFLMAO: Sorry, I couldn't help myself. And the pull cord feels the same before and after this massage ? I think you are flooding the engine with fuel when you tilt the mower up to turn the blade. I believe turning the engine is actually doing...

A model number might help us help you.

Welcome ! Was this the first run of the season ? Or has it been cranked and run within the last month, say late Feb or early March. If it was the first crank of the season, then what was done to prep it for winter storage ?