LTX 2000
- Thread starter jroachrr
- Start date
This write-up is unclear. This is the way I read this...
1. Everything is fine. Engine will run and idle just great. No problems starting or running.
2. Then PTO is engaged.
3. Something gets "hot". Engine gets hot ? PTO gets hot ? Belts get hot ? More details needed. How do you know it's hotter: measured temperature, smell, feel, crystal ball, what ??
4. Battery stops being charged. Did the battery have an ammeter on it before the PTO was engaged to insure charging was present at Item #1 ? And then an ammeter was connected again after Item #3 ?? Exactly how much was the charging before charging ended ?
5. The PTO quits. You mean the engine kept running, but the PTO clutch dis-engaged ? Or do you mean the whole mower, engine, PTO, and all quit ?
We only know what you tell us, but more detail is needed to understand.
Hope this helps.
The battery does not charge when PTO is engaged running the battery down. The PTO will disengage after about 15 minutes but the mower continues to run. The PTO will note engage until the next day in which you have to jump start the mower. The battery will charge after you jump start until you engage the PTO then it run for about 15 minutes then kick out again. Peat repeat. think I know what's going on but need confirmation. Looking at possible electric clutch.
bertsmobile1
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Might be the clutch or might be the alternator / rectifier
Clutches pull 3 to 7 amps .
Easy check is to hook up a car headlamp globe ~ 100W ( 8 amps ) and see if the same thing happens, if so the problem is in the alternator / rectifier .
If not the check the clutch, it may need adjustment and / or the wires may have a short although that usually blows the fuse
Also check the clutch fuse ( will be the smaller 10A or less ) and the housing.
A bad ground connection between the battery & the mower will also cause similar problems.
Clutches pull 3 to 7 amps .
Easy check is to hook up a car headlamp globe ~ 100W ( 8 amps ) and see if the same thing happens, if so the problem is in the alternator / rectifier .
If not the check the clutch, it may need adjustment and / or the wires may have a short although that usually blows the fuse
Also check the clutch fuse ( will be the smaller 10A or less ) and the housing.
A bad ground connection between the battery & the mower will also cause similar problems.
It sounds to me like the rectifier might be compromised. 1 blown diode in the 4-way bridge would reduce the charge current by 1/2. Thus, everything is fine as long as nothing (head lamps, PTO, disco light ball, George Foreman electric grill) is turned ON. In that scenario the diminished charge rate is minimal, but passable until some other load is applied.
The idea of connecting another huge load (like an 8A HL bulb) to see if the same thing happens is very good, but doesn't actually quantify the problem. I'd prefer to have ammeter readings at the battery with engine running without load vs. engine running with 8A load. With a "zero center ammeter" you could actually watch the load bring the "charge rate" into the negative "discharge" zone.
Interesting that so much "jumping off" with the car is going on. Although rectifiers do give up in service, A major cause of failure is momentary reverse polarity while being "jumped off".
The idea of connecting another huge load (like an 8A HL bulb) to see if the same thing happens is very good, but doesn't actually quantify the problem. I'd prefer to have ammeter readings at the battery with engine running without load vs. engine running with 8A load. With a "zero center ammeter" you could actually watch the load bring the "charge rate" into the negative "discharge" zone.
Interesting that so much "jumping off" with the car is going on. Although rectifiers do give up in service, A major cause of failure is momentary reverse polarity while being "jumped off".
bertsmobile1
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Most people have a spare globe sitting around.
Cheap multi meters do a foul job on reading amps
And clamp meters that are accurate under 20 A are very expensive for a good one and useless for a cheap one.
It is just a quick screening test to determine which part of the engine was causing the problem
Cheap multi meters do a foul job on reading amps
And clamp meters that are accurate under 20 A are very expensive for a good one and useless for a cheap one.
It is just a quick screening test to determine which part of the engine was causing the problem
Agreed. Mower ignitions can play havoc with newer digital meters. Best to use an old analog meter.