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Have you tried just richening up the mixture screws? The "primer" looks to be operating OK. It is actually a "purge" and pulls fresh gas through the carb and returns the excess to the tank. You might just pull the limiter caps and richen up your screws.

Adjust the valves. if it is OHV. Post the engine's model numbers.

What is the model number on the shaft?

Has anyone replaced the needle. The needle seat can be polished with a q-tip and an abrasive paste.

Here is a snip of another one.

https://www.ebay.com/p/21024334166?iid=233747186586 Here is an auction for one. Look at the pics.

Have you adjusted the valves?

Also put up the last set of numbers {code}, your engine likely has points, which could also be giving you trouble.

Try to till again, but partially engage the choke, and see if it does better. That will tell us if it is a fuel/air problem.

No, it is just the pic.

Sounds like it is flooding. Dump out all of the fuel and pull the rope until it starts, and burn off all of that excess fuel firstly. It should run great at the end as it burns the fuel out then stalls. The inlet needle in the carb is likely leaking, did it come in your kit?

https://www.thedrive.com/news/40458/thousands-of-unfinished-ford-super-duty-trucks-are-parked-at-kentucky-speedway-due-to-chip-shortage

Did you take this out and visually verify that it was clear? It is the main jet.

I figured out a long time ago who was Anti-Trump here. How's your boy Biden doing? When will the depression begin?

How did you clean the carb?

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/briggs-and-stratton-4066770344e1-engine-parts-c-16758_17347_240857_240858.html

I believe the internet term would be "LOL"!!

What model engine is it?

I go by the "sparky vs. no sparky" method.

Evil geniuses perhaps.

Likely the coil is fine. Take off the air filter and remove the screen from the muffler and start, see if it runs any different.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/371559802773?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338683862&customid=371559802773_11700&toolid=11000 Is this it?

Does the engine have a low oil/pressure switch? Will it do this if the blades are not engaged? Has this just started this year?

So the original coil was bad, and the first replacement the incorrect one? For what it is worth, their fs38 is the same powerhead, and the whole thing sells for $129 new.

Sounds like it would be much easier and better to just buy the part from MTD.

Sounds like you have a different problem. When you disengage the deck, the blades should stop. The blades should slow down and eventually stop even if you had no brake pads.

Remove the plug and see how it pulls, we can go from there.

Take off the valve covers and take a peek.

Also, you might have it badly flooded. Dump out all of the fuel and keep trying to start it with the tank empty, it may just start up after a while and burn off that excess fuel.

You might pull the muffler and check for excess carbon blocking the exhaust.

Check your clearances...

Nah, with the guard off, it would make for some carbon accumulation. Carbon buildup could cause piston damage if bad enough, but we would have to see some pics of the damage to even speculate.

Or would it be "viscous"????

Let's have a great vicious "oil thread"!!!

Yeah, I sell the whole thing like that, so folks won't have to worry with the clutch and flywheel. I don't sell that many though, it seems to be a pretty solid engine.

Hell, mine is better... https://www.ebay.com/itm/203343262024?hash=item2f5833f148:g:7pcAAOSw-wJZ54S3

Take of the bar/chain/cover and put up a pic of the sprocket.

I sell the engine for it, it is the same as the fs38.

On the longer bigger bars, the drive link count can also be affected by the use of a 6 or 7 or 8 tooth sprocket.

Here is the 18" 68 drive link, in case folks want to see firsthand.

Aftermarket suppliers some times get the drive link count different, I assume from different dimensions of their bar.

No, I just found a lot easier way to make a living. I would never recommend working on this chit for a living.

Luckily I am no longer working on equipment. I am too much of an old dog to learn any new tricks.

The wiring on most modern mowers make it extremely difficult to tamper with as it involves the electric pto switches, and no one will officially discuss any workarounds for liability reasons, kind of like that pesky screen in the muffler of your trimmer.

How are you testing for spark?

Drain the fuel out except for what is in the carb, then run the engine until the system is dry, and note the engine performance as the last of the fuel is burned up.

Stihl terminals look like this. The wire has a hole pierced into the center of the wire @ 3/4 inch down from the end, and the 90 degree prong pierces the wire to the center core, and all is shoved into the tight boot, so the boot could rotate and cause the plug connection to rotate.

Explain, I am not following.