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Yes. Yes on fuel in carb throat....but you've already done this with fuel in plug hole. It popped, so it's a fuel/air problem. This an auto choke-air vane/Thermostat. See that the choke plate in the carb (nearest the filter housing) is closed when cold. And it could be a dirty carb and fuel not...

The Briggs 12xxxx engines are good. I have 3 mowers currently with those engines. But I wouldn't spend any $ on internals for any of them. I had a 12S912 on a PW. Needed a camshaft, gov-oil slinger and whole gasket set - well north of $100. Around here, a 12xxxx mower with a dirty carb is $0-$20.

Post the model #. May be 13xxxxxxxx. May be under seat. Post serial #, too, if on sticker.

You can find SAE 40 (STP) at Autozone. Oreilys had Castrol SAE 40 but $7/qt.

If M and G are closed in the OFF position, then ign switch is working. Bet the kill wire is grounded inappropiately (insulation worn off) between coil tab and ign switch. I'd examine the length of the M wire on key switch to the coil tab. If key OFF = yes grounded. If Key ON = no ground. If...

Post engine model #. Eg: 110602-1031-E1. Probably stamped above the spark plug. Sounds like poor fuel delivery - Carb not adjusted, Carb bad, carb hooked up wrong, choke not working when cold, gov not working properly.

The idle screw is the big phillips head. It should be turned in/CW for higher idle. The 2 smaller screws are the Lo & Hi jets. Lo is always nearest to cyl. 1.5 out/CCW from lightly seated is a good starting point. Maybe you just need the IDLE screw turned CW. Watch the taper on this screw -...

Good post, Bert. If I wanted to buy a new riding mower...I'd buy a 1980s - 1990s garden tractor with minor problems and fix it.

These will levitate over obstacles! I really want one, tho. Think they have a Peerless 920. Sure don't need one but never stopped me before.

Was the oil level correct? Pull the spark plug, put a pencil or wooden dowel in the hole, have someone pull pull rope, see if piston is moving.

New or Used? In used, I'd go 1980s-1990s Garden Tractor w/ Peerless or Dana Spicer geared transaxle or hydro k66 or stronger. MTD 990, MTD GT1846, Craftsman GT 18-44", Simplicity, Ariens, Bolens, others can chime in on hydros. Bet you'll find more than mowing duties on 1 acre. Never touched new...

I've seen the 120k02 on sears part site on many different engines. I think it's a generic # they use to hide the engine. Sears is slimy that way.

This may be an L head. Look above the muffler for XXXXXX-XXXX-XX 12345678.

Post a pic of this leakage.

Need Briggs model #. Eg: 126M02. Near spark plug - maybe on OHV cover.

As you're mowing...."We're going up a hill, we're making a left turn, oh, no! - we just discharged into the neighbor's pristine zoysia!"

You have the Intake and air filter adapter hanging on each side of the carb. You'll remove and re-use those. Search Tecumseh TVS120 carburetor. Bet it's close. Better yet - find your engine model #.

Briggs 31xxxx do blow the HG between piston and valves. Sounds like the symptoms. Pull your head and see. Check valve clearances, too.

What's the engine model #?

Non ethanol gas is the best treatment.

Hydrolocking w/ fuel or a ton of carbon on top of piston.

On 0.16 ac, can't see a big difference in 21" vs 30". What 12-15 minutes? 22" is largest standard push/SP mower. If you want to save money, get used with a minor problem. Eg:

Lightweight and robust Self Propelled (with good tire tread) is good for going up slopes.

Mowing with a TVS120 (1994 5.5hp L head) and the governor started acting wonky. I needed to replace the sump gasket anyway, so I pulled the sump and check out this gov. The right "L" weight short leg has slipped out to the middle of the spool. Such a tight clearance - it's not going back cuz...

These puzzle me. Why 90* left? Looks like a Briggs 12xxxx. Weight distribution yields better mulching? Newer Toro Recyclers have the standard plug in front.

Go to cubcadet.com. Input model & serial #s. Download manual. Page 29 shows belt routing.

I'd leave the belts off until I got the engine running smoothly. No point in putting a load on at this time.

That's the breather tube from the breather assy. What that looks like in a tiny 4 stroke - I duuno. Oil from the crankcase is getting pressurized into the valve area and puking out the tube. Worn valve seals? I don't think you can work on valves in tiny 4 strokes. Might as well dig deeper and...

Post the model #. Pull the 2 carb screws and remove black air box housing and carb. Post pic.

Camshaft lobes aren't bumping valves open....I'd guess camshaft gear or timing gear on crankshaft failure. Maybe a tooth broke off and doesn't engage CW but will catch CCW. Gotta split the engine (2-3 inches from the engine bottom, you'll see a thin gasket). Engine splits into upper cylinder and...

Get a $10 tachometer - wraps around plug wire and see #. I had an older GXV-140 and that max rec RPM was 3250. Get your engine model and check youtube for governor adjustment. BUT will doing so make mower non-returnable or void warranty?

Did you pull carb off engine, remove bowl, float, needle, clear passages, remove varnish? These plastic carbs need all that.

It's called a Briggs Power Trac Kit. Basically, a side PTO coming out of the sump. Too much internal complexity for me. https://www.partstree.com/models/92908-5221-01-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/3-sump-bases-1/

Need to post full engine model #. Eg: 09P707-1234-E1. Probably dot stamped into block.

Never seen SP like this. Is there a lovejoy/transmission on the end of the crank to deliver horizontal power out to the pulley? I'm thinking of re-powering an old deck. Would this engine be "normal" at the crank? IE: pull the tranny off and just use a blade adapter on a push mower? Or maybe...

Thanks, Scrubcadet. Good info. Quite a few say "hard to find parts".

I can't find anything about this engine - all I find is "Yardmax". Is it a Loncin or Predator? I'm looking to buy a new push mower cuz my 25-30yo Tecumsehs are gonna need a major overhaul soon. Anybody experienced these engines? Thanks.

With engine off, rotate the deck belt and see if all deck pulleys turn smoothly. I bet they do. Engaging deck w/o an operator in the seat kills the coil. You may have a bad seat switch, corrosion on wires or bad wiring. Pull the seat interlock switch and work the plunger. Check for corrosion on...

If you search the web for 8X65MU, all kinds of parts houses come up. Con Rod = $50.

You need to post pics of this. All angles of the engine. This sounds weird. It's so old, it may be a reed valve intake. I can envision more fuel than reed valve passes thru - spitting excess out the carb.

If you send a pic of the coil attached but not fitting, they should refund your money and you keep the coil. I'd grind the center leg till all 3 legs are equidistant and see if it works.

There is adjustment possible by the enlarged mounting holes. I'd try this: Put coil screws in loosely. Put business card on FW magnets. Turn FW till coil goes thunk to FW. Tighten screws down.

Post the LT model #. On fuel tank label or under seat. Type it out - don't try to take a pic of it.

I's probably this Dana Spicer - https://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/foote/4360-78.pdf Say "better on hills or pulling a firewood cart than a cheap hydro or plastic transmission"

I occasionally buy a non-runner RM / LT / GT to refurb but ONLY if it has a Peerless or Dana Spicer geared transaxle. I tout that in the ad and discerning buyers will pay $400 for that. What is the model # of above Craftsman 2?

Price can vary by location. That sounds like $150-$250 in the mid south / southeast. Now is a bad time to sell. March will bring a higher price for a functioning riding mower.

Need the engine model # - on a shroud or valve cover. Sounds hydrolocked. Gas seeped out of carb into crankcase. Oil probably is gas laden. Check oil level - may be overfilled. Need to drain/change oil before running. May need a fuel shutoff valve before carb.

Need the engine model # - on a valve cover or shroud. Simple things - Does the choke plate act correctly - full-closed, half-half open, off-open? Air leak downstream of the carb? Good gasket to intake?

Need the model # from under the seat. 247.xxxxxx or 917.xxxxxx. May be 13Axxxxxxx on later models - that normally means MTD.

These newer engines with dot stamping are different. I'm thinking above = Date Of Manufacture Feb 17, 2016. Gets confusing when it was always YYMMDD. Briggs is saving 3 cents on the pop riveted plate? Here's my 09P702: