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I have to replace the sump gasket on my 22hp V twin. It’s been leaking for a couple of years and the engine is absolutely filthy with oily dirt and grass residue. I have it upside down on my work bench and am severely tempted to give it a spray of engine degreaser and then hose it off but I’m...

Are camshaft failures a common problem?

Thanks for the suggestion. I ordered a set. Since I’m going to the trouble to do the job I might as well do it the best way I can.

Just a follow up: I swapped the engines today and it’s up and running. One thing that threw me for a loop was that my older engine has a separate choke and throttle but the new one has the choke hooked to the throttle. It took me a second to figure that one out. I also seriously pulled my back...

I’m guessing it’s your sump gasket. Mine has the exact same problem. Is there a puddle of oil on the floor when you park it after it’s been run?

I managed to remove the solenoid and it turned out to be a moot point. The plunger was so rusted it wouldn’t move even with pliers and a dose of PB Blaster so I replaced it with a bolt. I’m going to reinstall the carb tomorrow morning and see what happens. Thanks for all the assistance.

I can’t just swap carbs because of the mangled connector. I’m either going to have to repair or hard wire the solenoid or I‘m going to have to disable it. I’m on the lookout for a short bolt with the correct threads just as soon as I find or grind down a thin wrench to turn off the solenoid...

Not planning on selling it. I bought it for the deck and transmission. Getting the engine running would just be a bonus because I could use the mower itself rather than stripping it to fix my other one. I’m all for the option that means less work for me.

I’m 99% sure it won’t run 5 minutes before it throws off some scale from the bowl and clogs again even after aI sanded and flushed it with solvent. The most cost effective thing for me to do is disable the solenoid on the old carb and see if it will start and run. If it does then I’ll run It...

I only paid $125 for the whole mower. I’m pretty sure I could pull a whole carb off a dead engine for less. As I said the main reason I bought the mower was for the deck and transmission. If I can get the mower running in the cheap then I will, but I’m not going to pour money into something that...

Yeah, I’ve done a bunch of learning about them today. Frankly given the condition of the float bowl I would be amazed if the solenoid is functional. I really should replace the bowl too but I don’t want to throw money at an engine that may have other problems as well.

The harness is $30 the cheapest I can find it. Crazy! Given that I have no idea if this engine will ever work I may just disable the solenoid and install a manual shutoff.

I picked up a used parts mower last week and the guy said it just needed a carb cleaning (ha) and it did fire when he shot it full of ether. When I started removing the carb I discovered the wiring connector to the carb solenoid was mangled and one of the wires is broken off. I downloaded the...

The leaking side actually ran better LOL. I went ahead and mowed a small section of the yard with it after replacing the plugs. It sputtered and even died a couple of times but I kept going until I finished. After I parked it I lifted the hood and heard a sound I’ve never heard from a mower...

I’ve asked about this engine before but the suggested fixes didn’t work. I bought a used mower primarily for the deck and transmission but it did come with an engine that started and ran, but it has a random intermittent deep sputter. People suggested it was a fuel supply issue because it seemed...

I think one of the reasons the new engine was on sale is because it has a 5/3 amp dual circuit alternator. The sales guy quizzed me on my application because of that. My mower has a mechanical blade clutch and only needs the alternator for battery charging and lights. According to him mowers...

My 2005-ish 22hp V twin has a bad sump leak. I figured since I have to take it apart I might as well do the oil seal and valves, so I bought gaskets. I also picked up a couple of head gaskets because I’ve read it’s really common on these engines for leaking head gaskets to pressurize the sump...

Thank you. Just what aI needed. I don’t know why I didn’t find that when I searched.

I have a 2005 era 22hp B&S twin engine (407577-0283E1) that I’m contemplating doing a swap for. I wanted to see if I could find out the shaft size without having to disconnect everything and measuring it but my Google skills must be weak because I can’t find it online. I can find a parts diagram...

I’m looking at a couple of Deere mowers and I see they list the engines as John Deere brand. Are those actually made by Deere or are they rebranded from other makers?

I see two nearly identical models with the exception of Toro vs Kohler engines. The Toro is about $400 more. I wonder if I should just buy the Kohler and set the difference aside for parts/etc.?

I’m looking at ZT mowers and there are some Toro options with Kawasaki engines and others with Toro-branded ones, specifically a 22.5 hp on a 42” deck model. Are these actually made by Toro or are they just rebadged from some other maker? If they are actually made by Toro how are they in terms...

I bought a used mower and I think I got taken. The good news is that I bought it primarily for the deck and transaxle, but it would be nice if I could fix the engine too. It's a two cylinder Intek 20HP and it starts fine when cold, and it will run for several minutes with no issues. However...

Valve lash makes sense because the guy told me it had new heads. I sort of assumed he meant head gaskets because throwing a rod wouldn’t cause you to need new heads, but if the repair guy just bolted on a couple of heads from a scrapped engine it’s quite possible they are far out of spec.

Do you know of a convenient source for valve clearance specs? That seems like a very easy thing to check, and I would need to buy any new gizmos to do it. Your suggestion about testing for spark is a good one.

I bought a used mower primarily for the purpose of scavenging the transaxle and deck. The seller told me the engine had been rebuilt after throwing a rod. It starts and runs fine but after 20-25 minutes it started to miss more and more and eventually died. After sitting for 10 minutes or so it...

I’m hopeful it won’t require taking those assemblies apart. That looks like a disaster just waiting to happen :)

I found a used Spicer locally that I swapped in and the brakes were totally frozen. I bought it attached to an old mower frame and I guess it must have been sitting in the dirt for a while. It took a few squirts of Kroil and a big punch but I finally broke them free. I went ahead and flipped...

Here's an IPL. Do I need anything besides a new input shaft, key and retaining clip?

Well, it's been used quite a bit over the last 15 years, so I'm not surprised something broke, but I was also surprised when I took it off and the pulley just fell off. I was mowing beside a concrete driveway and went to cross to mow the other side. I guess the deck must have gotten out of...

IPL?

What I need to do is replace the input shaft because it snapped right at the case. I presume I have to split the case to do that? I took out all the bolds and tapped around it a bit but it appears to be pretty well glued together. The part is only 12 bucks. It would sure be nice if I could pop...

My 2005ish Craftsman LT200 (AYP) transaxle snapped off the main shaft. I don’t have the skill to rebuild it and Tecumseh is out of business. It’s a 6 speed manual, model mst-206-545c. Is there a direct replacement unit from another maker I could buy and swap in?

My Craftsman (AYP) lawn tractor is finally starting to show some transmission problems after 16 years of fairly hard use for a consumer grade mower. Part of me is considering buying a replacement transaxle and running it until the engine fails, but another part of me is considering just biting...

My 15 year old 22 HP V Twin has what I’m assuming is a lower seal leak based on the oil puddles I keep seeing in my garage. Is it a relatively easy job to change it? Does the engine need to be removed from the mower frame or can the seal be slid off and reinstalled? <—— I suspect this is wishful...

I couldn't see any visible wobble in the crankshaft so I decided to take off the cover of the "exhaust box" or whatever the proper name is. Much to my surprise I found this: These bolts have probably been backing themselves out for years and I guess the impact of the blade was the last straw...

I hit a metal pipe that I (obviously) didn’t know was there with my beloved 10323. That’s the silver series 6.5 Duraforce two stroke. When it hit it didn’t kill the engine, but the sound of the engine changed instantly. I was wearing earplugs so I didn’t realize quite how much, but when I got it...

My mower is about 16 years old now and the tires have leaks due to sidewall cracks that Slime won't fix. Instead of traditional bearing caps the wheels have what appear to be heat shrink plastic covers. I know I can peel it off somehow, but it doesn't look like it would be possible to get it...

The title sort of says it. I know the time will come when my beloved 10323 won't be fixable and I need to start thinking about a replacement. My primary use is trimming on steep hillsides where a rider is unsafe, so I suspect a 4 stroke will die of oil starvation unless it has a pressurized...