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If you're looking for deck belt routing, Ferris has the diagram on a sticker, on the deck.

Too much valve spring pressure? Something in valve train on that valve hanging up and not moving free?

They trade them in for new mowers after a few / several 1000 hrs....you probably won't find many commercial cutters with Raptors though, that is not considered a commercial mower!

Nope...not just a Cub Cadet thing, last time I checked.....they are putting Kohlers on several different brands of mowers and equipment!

I'm sorry but, IMO, anyone who gets under a mower, car, truck, or whatever WITHOUT using jack stands.....is just asking for a shorter life span! I don't care how many safety bars a lift has....it can still tilt, roll, slide,.....earthquake! SMH

Is the seal still intact and leaking oil past it or, has the lip seal itself blown out of the sump case?

So you're saying you don't have an Electric PTO but, a lever and cable that you apply to manually engage your deck?

Something to remember!

Huh.....I must be lucky, I've never broken 1 of those Kohler valve cover bolts in the dozens I have re-sealed, I do use an air ratchet on them though and maybe the sudden impact loosens them where a slow hand held ratchet twists them off, don't know.....but I do know tomorrow is Monday, back at...

First, gravity will flow fuel to the carb, if the fuel tank outlet is above the level of the carb. Second, the carb float / needle & seat should stop the fuel in the carb bowl when in gets full (if working correctly and / or don't have a piece of trash in the seat letting fuel bye) no matter if...

Yes, we sell some mowers (Cub Cadet) that have these Deck Washout fittings. We try to deter people from using them for several reasons but, some believe they're a great idea....just like mulching kits, a bagger system on an entry level 18hp lawn tractor or running your mower engine at 1/2...

On a side note....make sure your ENGINE and all cooling fins (on heads under the top shroud) are clear of grass debris and, run the engine at FULL throttle at all times....it will help keep the eng cool and less likely to repeat the leaking problem at the valve covers!

Enjoy the mower.....I have seen people that like to mow their yard with a lawn tractor or even a push mower.....some say it's like therapy for the mind!

Yes, they use sealant and are prone to leakage after awhile, especially at the bottom next to the Exhaust pipe side. If you're gonna re-seal it, use GOOD High Temp sealant.

"penny wise pound foolish" ..... nice, I like that!

I see.... put that thing back on the track, no time better than the present! I still say get OEM, it might outlast those other 2 cheapies

You better wait and get an O.E.M. belt....it will pay off in the long run! So tonykarter.....are you a kart racer?

There is a lot of $$$ to be made, or lost, on the internet blackmarket.....I mean aftermarket!

Sometimes fewer clothes is better......it depends on what the mirror tells you! ;)

If you use the rope trick, make sure both valves are closed at TDC or you could bend a valve. I personally like the Impact but, you do have to know your Impact or....other problems might occur!

If it sticks to a magnet, it's steel,if not, it's Alum. People have this misconception that the flywheel key holds the flywheel from turning / spinning on the crankshaft.

Oh....now I see the problem!!!!!

Yep, that is a sheared key, just make sure you replace it with an Alum key & not Steel!

There is one thing about a carburetor, it only uses what's put through it. You can clean a carb and its just like new, put it on, and pour gas with water or trash in the tank and...WHAM, you got a carb problem all over again before you even try to start it.

If its not the carb flooding your crankcase with gas.....those pulse fuel pumps work off a vacuum / pulse from the crankcase via a rubber hose. Sometimes they go bad and start pumping fuel in the crankcase, via that hose, and the carb too.....thus gas in oil.

Pistons.......uh....don't have seals!

Hey...don't hit / impact anything with your new mower.....you want to keep her happy!!

Sounds like he's up-sizing / up-grading.....so that JD has to be better than using a push mower!

They are good mowers, especially todays newer models!

Why is he selling his mower? Most people keep a good mower, unless they need to up-size or down-size. In other words....most used mowers are, well used, so check it out good!

You joined today.....just to post this ad

That's a good report.....other than no rain ;-(

Rather walk than ride?

I know it's a lot of work sometimes but, if it has a carb and is original, get the # off the carb....you should be able to trace it down with that #

As far as the float setting, it would depend on what type of carb it is but, 99% of todays mower carbs, the floats are in a fixed position , so there is no float adjustment. A new O.E.M. carb is the way to go and not an "internet special"......most of the time!

Everything has to just RIGHT for a mulching kit to work right. They won't work on all mowers as, all mowers are not created equal. Just because they sell a mulching kit for a certain mower, is no guarantee is works good, and most don't! At the dealership I work at, the mower sales dept., tries...

Unfortunately, most of the time, it's not cost effective to replace a crankshaft in a push mower......unless it's a real high dollar mower. Might be time for a new mower!

Bent crank for sure, that will vibrate bad!

I couldn't get the videos to open but, a bent crankshaft is never a good thing either....does it vibrate after the impact?

Check the main fuse and see if it blowed it first.

I can't tell 100% by the pics but, the key does not look sheared, sheared is usually split into 2 pieces.

IMO...switch over to Red....Ferris Red

Some Kawasaki engines you have to take the grass screen assembly off first.

It probably sheared the flywheel key (Alum) and is out of time (ignition timing)....remove flywheel to find out, then replace it if it is sheared (broke)

I almost feel sorry for you guys......our shop has central A/C

I'm not at the shop to look that up but....that does seem to be a strange #

I'm not sure on your mower but, on the Scags, the fill plug is on the side of the gearbox, and you fill it until it comes out....that's how you know it's full.

More than likely, it is a carburetor problem....either dirt or water is in the carb.

We put 80-90 gear lube in the Scag deck gearboxes.

Yep, this is what they do when you hit something with the blade and it stops the engine instantly, they have an Aluminum key that aligns the flywheel on the crank that shears. Sometimes that sudden hit / stop can also bend the crank where the blade bolts on! Make sure the bottom of the crank is...