Search results

Go with the widest deck you can.......(as long as it fits on your trailer, in the door were you keep it, and goes in between most the trees / obstacles in your yard).....because if you don't, you'll wish you did in 2 weeks!

That section of deck bracing is just that, for bracing only, the bigger that chute opening is without any obstruction, the better the cut grass will exit. It will weaken that right edge of the deck, as far as hitting / running into something but, when we were a Hustler dealer, I saw people open...

Drive belt slipping? How about the engine governor, is it set right, after the cam replacement?

Well....at least you'll have some other parts on the doner mower, in case you need something else!

You might have to prime it, even hot. As a engine gets wear on it, it doesn't react the same as when new....same with the carb. Try it, to find out. Nothing fires an engine faster than fresh, raw fuel!.......well, there is a couple things but I don't print it, don't really want anyone getting hurt!

I'm sorry........I CAN'T RESIST!

Your carb primer bulb is probably not working right. The prime from this primer bulb acts as the choke sending xtra fuel in the carb!

It could be something simple, like release handle employed or something else simple or....it could've been re-assembled incorrectly....or it could just be ruined! Re-check everything....you might find the problem!

Can you take a good, clear, close-up pic of it and post it?

Check your battery, I mean really check it, with an ohm meter as you engage your starter and read that #, what is that #? If battery tests good, check flywheel key, if it sheared, it moves the Ignition timing and it can "kick back" when you try to start it, kinda like you are describing....but...

You must have a Big Block / big HP engine, that is the only engines 20-50 is recommended for, other that that, IMO, Kaw 10-40 is good

What did the person you bought it from, tell you to use?

It's bad, are you gonna repair it or replace it?

You are correct!

I would've thought it would be easier to remove the carb from the engine, then to remove the engine from the unit just to get to the bottom of the carb but.....I could be wrong though.

A REBEL is light years ahead of a RZT 50......we are a Cub C dealer also!

If it's a Flathead, most flatheads, you take the valve cover / breather assy off, that is where the lifter meets the valve, there are no push rods. That is where the lash is measured and it is not manually adjustable like a OHV. When I used to build Flathead racing engines for racing go-karts...

Sounds like you have already talked your way into a Bad Boy....and I agree, we are a Bad Boy Dealer and sell a TON of them and I can say...it's one company that DOES improve there equipment every year! Some of the reason other sellers don't like Bad Boy is, Bad Boy is advertised all over the...

That's TRUE....good point!

I know what you meant.....

EXACTLY!

I guess you could, take it to a shop that does this kind of thing for a living.....just say'in

This is funny and true! This is an actual pic I took of a guys carb inlet on a Hustler mower that came in because it wouldn't run right. I asked him before I took the air filter off...when was the last time you replaced your air filter, he said...."hell. you don't need to change them, they last...

I have several Kohler engines for parts..... KT715 - KT745 These are new take-offs

Your local Hustler dealer should be able to fix you up, if anybody could!

Most people take the carb off.....then you all the room you need to disassemble it!

Put some Reaper tires on 'em....they hang on as good as anything!

I like to give people HOPE....you know, like all the politicians are doing right now!....lol...lol...lol...lol

This still holds true......

My boss, which is the owner of the dealership, is often calling the stuff I work on junk.....I always say, if it wasn't for junk....I wouldn't have a job!

Were you looking for the sticker on the hood that has all the part #'s on it? I have seen those stickers have the wrong part #'s on them before, even on new products. I look them up now, just to make sure, after trying to struggle with a wrong size belt!

Start it up....and go for it!

I haven't seen them yet but....if they are like the rest of the mower industry...they try improve every year!

B&S 28hp Commercial Turf engines are prone to leak at the sump gasket The HG wheel motors, the charge pumps leak,out the very bottom. Identify were the leak is & we can give advice on the repair!

I worked on a Dixie Chopper about a month ago, I can't recall the model # or what was weird about it but, it had a weird way to activate the starter system, it took a minute to figure it out. Had to be in the seat for one thing....it was kinda a different set-up then most mowers! I wish I could...

That happens sometimes....you gotta eat some time to make things right, NO ONE likes it but, it happens to everyone from time to time!

Scags are good mowers for sure but, no matter how good they are, they all wear out. Being set outside is not that great on them either. Those 19 hp Kaw engines on those had the oil drain petcock leak oil out, fairly easy & cheap fix...hey also had the Charge Pumps leak on the wheel motors, not...

Always engage your PTO at full throttle.

That area of the cyl head is called the quench area. The same for that area of the piston. From the looks of that head, i'd say you have a stuck top ring at some place on that top ringland, letting compression leak by, causing too much crankcase pressure. Engine problems will follow!

Another bad design.

And I might add....the more oil you mix, the HOTTER the engine gets and, we all know TOO MUCH HEAT is a killer to most engines!

If mixed PROPERLY with fresh gas.....it's good stuff, we sell a ton of it!

Probably the clamp that holds the throttle cable in position has loosened up and let the throttle cable move. They are notorious for that to happen. Some engines are worse than others as B&S and Kohler has their throttle assy on the bottom of the engine, right next to the exhaust & muffler, were...

I can't say I've ever seen a metal "gasket" for a carburetor, a metal exhaust gasket ,yes. I have seen a metal heat shield in between the carb, carb gaskets and the engine though.....maybe that is what you're seeing! And if yours never had it to begin with, don't worry about it!

They wish......

Dang.....that's an awful lot of reading but....Me encantan las podadoras,......oh wait...wrong forum!

Thanks for your reply...and input!

You were given Snapper instructions on how to do it in post #2, what more help do you want....nobody can physically do it for you over the internet!

At the first glance of that pic, before you explained it, it almost looks like it has too small of valves in it.

Thanks for the reply! ....and, the Jury must come back in at some point...haha