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What model is this engine?

Are you spinning the flywheel with a drill, or using the pull starter?

So a cinder block in the seat is terrible, but bypassing the switch is fine? It is real early, and I may not be reading this correctly....

I still have an old crankshaft straightening tool, it actually re-bends the crankshaft so it cuts level and doesn't vibrate. Works pretty good. I might have to do a youtube video of it.

I would suggest that you adjust your valves.

A cinder block in the seat works.

Yeah, I just tell the customer to just use it normally.

When I ran a truck shop, they had a barrel on wheels full of grease, and a pneumatic gun, and those were very bad, Several times the guys would hook up the gun to the clutch throwout bearing and go to town

One thing to think about grease guns, is that people get carried away. Many pump grease until they hear the seals pop and grease oozes out, in my mind, that is not a good thing.

I call them "vrrrroooom meters".....

I would just wire the thing directly to the kill terminal, but we are not allowed to say it.

The wire snuck in the back door. Murrays are sneaky.

I see it now,

It doesn't show the kill circuit. What is the model number of the tractor/mower itself?

If this is the correct schematic, then you have an electric pto, so following the diagram becomes more necessary, as one of those yellow wires goes to a circuit for the pto switch. One of them goes to the terminal on the coil, and the other one goes through a bunch of safety switches.

Sounds like your belt is not disengaging when you press the pedal, or possibly a bearing freezing up. We need to know what you have to be of much help.

That switch, the G post is grounded to the outer metal of the switch, and that wire should go to the frame. The M terminal post goes to the kill post on the coil. But yes, one should check for stray voltage, as that will destroy the coil.

To get it working at least at the switch, you need to hook the double wires to the terminal on the ignition coil, as it grounds out the ignition to shut it down. However, you must be careful not to send any voltage to your coil, as that will damage it badly.

Those wires are the circuit to shut it off. Why they are cut is hard to say. Likely someone trying to compensate for a bad safety switch.

Does the tractor have a model number tag?

No spec. number?

What brand/model transmission is on it?

With the pic on your screen, just click on the "snipping tool" and take a quick screenshot.

Have you looked up the part numbers of the parts you need?

Look like these? https://www.ebay.com.my/itm/KAWASAKI-KF34-KF340-KF34G-IGNITION-COIL-POINTS-CONDENSOR-/130566590335

A lot of mower shops have a junk pile.

It is a simple, straightforward question, really. He keeps it short and simple.

Yeah, You have to use a piston stop and hand wrench on those big fanwheels. But on the bent rod one, he filled the cylinder all of the way with rope, and put an angled force on the rod.

Here are 2 of his projects, both trying to remove the clutch or flywheel.

A guy on arboristsite bent a rod on his ms170 by improperly trying to remove the clutch or flywheel.

Put up the spec. numbers please.

A possibility is that when it went back together, the flywheel nut was not torqued enough and you have sheared the flywheel key.

Could have just dropped an exhaust pushrod, or have a bad cam. Yeah, post all of the numbers so we know what you have.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/

Pull the heads and decarbon everything, and take a good look at everything.

Take the float off and shake it, see if it there is gas in it. Look at it, see if it is crushed.

Also take off the starter and take a peek, a loose screw could be jammed somewhere.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/briggs-and-stratton-1263120616b8-engine-parts-c-16758_17347_17332_265740.html

On e-replacements it shows this one. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/carburetor-p-257747.html

Folks often think that an air wrench or drill is an impact, when it is not. Here is a video I made to show folks how to remove a flywheel.

Looks like you could get a new one shipped to you for @ $20. I would do that.

Here is a pic of a backside of one. You can see the channel that the pulse of air travels through, it must not leak air. =-=======================

The plate that you are seeing is the throttle plate. Put up a pic of the backside of your air filter assembly and the gasket. You will notice the indentations in your old gasket, that is the path of the air pulse to the carb to prime it. If it doesn't seal well, then you won't prime the carb.

Here it is behind the white plastic baffle.

No, you take the air filter off and look into the throat of the carb and watch, you should see a pulse of fuel pop up into the throat.

The engines came with a choke or a primer capability, but with an aftermarket carb, who could know? Post a link to the carb that you bought, the old one, and the air filter assy.

That model, if it is the carb with the primer bulb, is known for primer problems. The problem is that the air cleaner base need to make a tight seal, as that is the passage that sends a puff of air to the carb and put up a pulse/squirt of fuel into the carb throat. I always put a smear of...

Just use an air/electric wrench with impact action.

There should be an adjustment screw on the bottom of the carb, turn it to the left as it is running to see if it runs better.

The fuel solenoid on the carb allows it to run for a few seconds until the fuel burns off.