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That depends on the size of your hammer. Look up the parts list for each model and see if the p/ns are the same for the hood.

It isn't the plugs. I think you have a fuel problem. Clean the carb and make sure the choke is working, your problem should go away.

In case you're unaware, the blades are measured diagonally. That's why you can have 63" on 60 " deck. Also, sloing down your mower speed can sometimes get rid of those stripes. The first thing I would check is belt tensioner(2)

If it stopped cold without hitting anything, check for spark. You may have a coil fault that presents itself when hot. Throw away that Tru-Fuel.

I'll accept your money, too.

Dude, stop buying Tru Fuel and send me the money.

Put an in-line shut-off valve on it, and use it. Doesn't fix your needle but solves your problem.

Was this perhaps your first mow of the season? Or, had you just added fuel that has been sitting for awhile. You might have some water in the tank, check with a turkey baster, just not the one that your wife uses.

Yeah, my point was that a response from the OP would be helpful. Star Tech spent time and work providing answers, knowing if they worked or not could be very helpful.

You just diagnosed the problem yourself. If you put gas or starting fluid in the carb and it runs for a few seconds, the carb is plugged. Take it off and clean or replace it. The problem can not be anything else.

Don't try to straighten it. Just reinstall and tighten it, if it leaks, seal it.

An old diesel mechanic trick...use two head gaskets.

As long as you're spinning it up in the dark, reinstall the plug and see if you see any spark when you turn it over. I've seen automotive plugs with internal shorts under compression that allow the spark to jump to the engine head, bypassing the cylinder.

I did that with my truck, worked like a charm.

"the mower starts and runs." You are looking a gift horse in the mouth.

All fuel tanks are vented, otherwise the fuel wouldn't flow from the tank.

I was going to make a similar post, thanks for saving me 45 minutes or so.

Sta-bil claims that a bottle kept beyond it's shelf life will not hurt anything, it will just be less effective. Also, it should be noted that a full system won condense and an empty system won't condense, you don't want to store equipment between those extremes without using a fuel stabilizer.

Mowing week is all done in Minnesota? It seems the diagnostic you're paying for should cover everything mentioned here.

https://www.amazon.com/Gasoline-Portable-Transfer-H-veenjor-Durable/dp/B09ZYTWQ91/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=drill+siphon&qid=1697902809&sr=8-8

Gas, air and spark need to be timed correctly via the flywheel key.

I'm confused by 2.5 and 2.1/8", I read 2.5 as 2-1/2 rotations but I don't know what you mean by 2.1/8".

If it sounds too good to be true.....

Oh, and free shipping.

This isn't so much a JD question as an on-line seller question. I saw this on a website called alll2digit.com and I want to know if anyone has used this company and could they possibly be legit? Z315E Z315E 42 in. 20 HP GAS Dual Hydrostatic Zero-Turn Riding Mower BG21296...

Amazon.com Walmart.com

I believe your son hit something and caused the flywheel key to break, the engine turning over out of time caused the push rods to bend. It's not the eng of the world, but hopefully that's the extent of the problem. Check youtube for some how-to videos. You can use a soft faced mallet to tap on...

First check your flywheel key, before spending time on anything else. I would suggest that you just go ahead and change the key in case it's cracked or something and you can't see it. That key controls the engine timing.

For $10 or less you can get transfer/siphon pumps powered by hand or by your drill and make oil changes easier and less messy.

Your engine was designed to run on SAE 30 motor oil. Stick with it.

I have cut those "haloes off, then cut a straight groove in the top of the adjustment screws and used a straight screw driver to adjust. Works like a charm.

I'm not going to go look for the model number, but I bought my Toro walk-behind used about twelve years ago. I've never had a lick of problem with it, never even had to give it a second pull. If I could figure out how to keep the gas cap from falling off it would be the perfect machine. By the...

It's a $36.00 gamble. Feeling lucky?

A thick foam pad under the battery would cushion it against bumps and bruises.

A thick foam pad under the battery would cushion it against bumps and bruises.

But if a leak develops it keeps your garage from being flooded with gasoline.

If you have done all of this already, try using two head gaskets. Often that will make up for any head deformities.

As long as no part of the fuel system is higher than the bottom of the fuel tank gravity will do its thing.

It's the drive belt. I always change both belts at the same time.

You have described the sounds of a typical solenoid failure. The click is the solenoid trying to work, the whine is the starter turning without being engaged to the flywheel by the solenoid.

This statement jumped out at me: "lowered the fuel line to let the filter fill and connected it back to the carb". Are you certain that your fuel line isn't routed such that it's higher than your tank level?

Somebody mentioned above that you need air, gas, compression and spark to run your engine. That's true, but these things all need to be timed, too. Check your timing on the flywheel and gap the coil.

Remove all of your outlet and light switch covers, put boric acid inside the walls as much as possible. Good Luck. Before moving into my house I had to do this. The day after treating the walls I found hundreds of dead roaches in the pool.

Try a search using the engine model number.

I think you have a very small (for now) crack in your plug insulator(s). Everything is fine until the plug grows enough from heat to open that crack and cause the spark to jump out of the insulator to ground. I've seen this happen with automotive plugs many times.

Unburned fuel will make white smoke. A carburetor adjustment will likely cure it.

A shut-off valve as close to the carb as possible will also make this problem go away, but clean that carb first and keep the steel wool away from it.

Attention Please, ^^^ That was intended to be humor^^^