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Get the manual for the blower. Call Troy if you can't find it. Buy a shop manual for it. Hold off on the caveman tactics. Could be some bolt to turn to align the auger.

Loctite makes or made a caulk that doesn't burn foam. Fits in a caulking gun. Slather it on and clamp down. Let it cure. What scares me is you said plastic. Might have to rough up the frame with some 80 grit. Some plastics are super hard slash slick. Here it is from Home Cheapo.

You need more gas in the carb bowl. See what is causing your lack of fuel delivery. Same thing with your car. If the gas gauge reads E, and you sputter to the shoulder, what do you think you might need to do? Open gas cap. Shot in the dark but vent might be clogged.

You must clean all the old head gasket material prior to lapping. Lap block and head where head gasket sits. Spray hi-tack sealant on the gasket. Chase head bolts and threads with tap and die. Blow out with shop air. Clean bolts and threads with brake cleaner. Threads must be clean and...

What have you done to fix it exactly? Fill the tank completely. Drain into a glass jar. See if the tank empties fully with a purpose. How did you check spark? So it runs for 10 seconds and dies. You have the proper recipe for THAT 10 seconds. After that you are missing something. What do...

Specifically is this for Intek engines, twins or??? That is 25ft lbs converted.

What I've found is the wet/dry paper clogs quick on aluminum material. The plain OG wood type sanding paper worked better at 150 grit initial. That grit level isn't rough looking or feeling on the head gasket surface. I clean that up with 400 a few laps and call it good. Remember to turn the...

Old post but rust slash corrosion has nothing to do with magnetism. Doubt this was the real non start cause.

Water in the gas. Dirty carb.

Freaking fake news.

All caused by dirty slash clogged cooling fins.

Takes less than 4 minutes. Give it a couple swipes. You will see how bad the head is warped. Start out with standard 150 grit. Get it flat with that. Then progress up a bit in grit. Last one I did was non wet/dry type paper.

WHAT? StarTech is one of the pillars of this great forum. Dude helped people all the time, for FREE. Took a ton of his personal time daily to be on here making a difference. Come back StarTech. Freaking guy probably forgot more about mowers and engines than most of us have in our heads. Huge...

Most people don't even check oil level. Lose one line and she is done. All the vibes bouncing around the yard. On a speedy 0 turn...... I sleep better with no oil filter at all.

How old? Ever clean the cooling fins? Ever check valves? Do you check the oil on a flat surface prior to every mow? Do you use multi grade oil? If so stop it unless your manual says otherwise. SAE 30w is your friend. I suggest ordering new Briggs parts and put her back together. Think the days...

Cams in these mower engines are so small, think you are barking up the wrong tree. These are low rev Diesel like engines. Put the valves in factory spec and look elsewhere for your slow revs. As in 97% of all complaints are dirty carbs and or neglected fuel systems. To more directly answer...

So what other mower forums better this one? Love to hear this.

There are 2 TDC strokes on a 4 smoke engine. Easier valve check is one valve pushed open out of the head, adjust OPPOSITE valve. Do this for all other valves.

Did this get fixed and slaying some grass? OP ghosted us.

I take some 150 grit on the garage door window. Let the PAPER DO ALL THE WORK. Lap the head and block where the gaskets sits. You will quickly see your head, like every one I've done is warped. Little 400 grit to polish her off. Rotate the head while lapping. Use your OPEN FINGERS while making...

No, time to test what you have.

Flush fuel tank. Tank needs to be SPOTLESS like a new one. Gas cap needs some form of seal to keep grit out. All new fuel lines and filter. Entire fuel system needs either replaced or cleaned. Tank vent needs inspected. Pull hose AT carb. Should be solid stream of gas. No good stream, find out...

What about how it was stored over winter? Parked in a wide open field or cozy garage? Sitting pretty with Turtle Wax on the deck. Most say pour oil in the cyl bore over winter.

A-Maz-Zin'. Glad she is running again.

My drool Snapper is one I have two of. The Commercial with the Kawi FJ180V engine. King of ALL push mowers, end of message. Other great engines as Snapper always put on top of the line engines back in the day. I have a Commercial with the Commercial Honda GXV160. Great mower, engine lacks...

(y) Just as in wood is slightly abrasive especially when wet slash swollen.

You need to verify you have solid spark all the time you are holding the deadman lever to the bar. With a good coil, should of ran perfect IF it was a spark issue. You could have a partial failure in your ignition coil? Never seen one but it is an electrical part. Coil gets hot and starts...

Air, fuel, spark at the right time and compression. You lack fuel sounds like. Clean the tank like a new one. Most likely carb is dirty inside.

Right on right on......... All listed in everyone's engine manual as maintenance items. Clean the cooling fins while you are there. Valve adjustments...... Turtle Wax on the deck.

New doesn't mean new these days. Throwing money at it can be futile as you are seeing. All these parts will need tested. Is the new carb OEM Briggs or was this some Scamazon purchase? Was the wrong part ordered by accident? Oh okay, pulsa jet. Tiger Small Engine nailed it. Tank must be...

Um, missing a step. Need to lap the head and block area where the head gasket sits. 3 step bolt torque is kindly advised. Every head I've pulled after checking were never flat. Intek engine owners pay attention here. Those love to toss head gaskets.

So what do you think the engine is lacking? She is thirsty. I would flush/wash/clean/shake the gas tank out. Blow out both ways with compressed air. Tank should be like a new one. As Bert said, there is clean and there is CLEAN. Install new fuel line from tank to carb. Filter and shut off...

Okay so is it fixed? Sounds normal to me.

Pictures and videos will help us help you more.

Not needed but not critical. Remember to use some alcohol to clean that connector when you are done testing. Remove the adhesive from the tape. It will attract grit and grime. IF the coil is good, the engine will run against the flywheel brake. You will need to strap the deadman lever to the...

Unless your engine is water cooled and has full pressure lube, you don't want to idle down. It's full revs until you kill the engine on purpose. Move the cable to either lengthen or shorten it. Check the revs after you've made adjustments.

Gas cap gasket, good call MParr.

Carb float level could be set low. Restriction in fuel delivery to carb.

Look at your mower parts list.

I would download it because Briggs and their links disappear all the time. Old engine IPL's and such are not where they used to be. Get it while the get ins' is good.

Can't see the picture.

12 and 25 acres is a bit much for a 0. Unless you like spending your entire weekend cutting grass. Some people do.

If I recall, been a while, you load test one at 80% of rated cold cranking amp value???. Someone check me on that. So some toaster type might not fully load her down.

All batteries and all electrical circuits, must be, LOAD TESTED. Under cranking, assuming all else is good, if your battery drops below 10.5 volts DC, you have a bad battery. Take it to an auto parts store. They will check for free as ILENGINE said. Your charger doesn't test anything under...

You have a high tension lead which is the plug wire and a small gauge black wire (kill wire) that connects to the ignition coil. If the kill wire ever grounds out the coil, you have no spark. Also remove the coil. Polish the mounting pads where the coil sits and the area on the coil where it...

Snip off after fire solenoid plunger inside the carb. Reinstall solenoid. Pull coil kill wire off for testing. Should run fuel tank dry if coil is good. Engage the choke when engine starts loosing power. See if she smooths out. Get a cheap hot plate from a yard sale. Remove all rubber and...

Pull the kill wire off the coil. Should run the tank dry if the ignition coil is good.

You should be able to push the valve open with your fingers or say a broom stick. Those springs are not very stiff.

Nice catch for OHV engines. Had L-head on the brain.

Try a non resistor plug. My guess is a super high resistance plug taxing the snot out of the coil making it draw max current, getting hot and or shorting some windings???? Test the plug resistance for grins.