Search results

This is what he is working with, we think. No engine numbers were provided.

Did you clean the emulsion tube? Any holes plugged up? Did you check this "new" plug for spark? Does it work? Choke needs to be closed on a cold engine. Possibility. Need to pressure test the carb needle/seat at 7psi for 30+ minutes. Could be sticking closed too. There are 2 TDC strokes on a...

What the????? Take a picture of this float valve. Yes there is a float inside the carb bowl. Float itself is not a valve. And if this is what I'm thinking, how did you get it inverted? Picture will solve the mystery. Video even better.

That is your idle speed adjustment screw. Sets idle speed typically 1750rpm. Turn it CCW to lower rpm. This is the screw with the spring around it.

Glad to hear it's running. Thanks for letting us all know.

I totally missed the pump part. Looked twice. Nice catch on finding it.

Thanks for sticking with us and glad to hear she is running again. Recommend downloading your engine manual. Read it cover to cover. Things like valve lash, CLEAN THE COOLING FINS and such are yearly tasks we all need to do.

So find out why you don't get full gravity flow or flow from a pump that both types fill the inner diameter of the hose. Why add another point of failure? You can't even get a gravity system to work?? I'm not even sure if your engine has a gravity or pumped fuel system? Okay just looked at...

Fix the valve issue. If you still have issues have the battery tested.

Does your engine have a valve stem cap? If so find it and put it back on. Then set the lash.

So you have spark and she won't fire off with starting fluid? A-maz-in. Flywheel key is good. 150psi means you need to pull the valve cover. Beat me to it LOL. Nice pic. Yeah you have issues. Now investigate WHY the rocker came off. Never ran valve lash? Bent push rods?

OEM carb or Chinese amazon ebay specials? While you had it out, did you watch the plunger move when you hit the key on and off? Do you have spark from the coil? So now 2 plugs and no fire? Just read you claim to have spark. Good man now use them. Already covered this. Needs tested and...

Take the battery and have it LOAD TESTED. Charging a battery doesn't tell the whole picture. Once you hit the key, a dead cell will make the entire battery fall on it's face delivering less than required current. Once you confirm you have a good battery, then attack carbs and other mower parts.

I would pull the valve covers. Watch the valves go up and down. They should all move roughly the same in travel distance. Put a straight edge on a rocker, watch the valves move. Look for a valve that doesn't move at all. While you are there check lash. I would check flywheel key, valves and...

Pull the fuel hose AT the carb inlet. Should flow out with a purpose. If it flows nicely then tapers off...... 💡💡💡 Tank vent clogged in tank cap or fuel outlet on bottom of the tank.

Should of stated what you have TESTED. I'm listening to you so let's roll. Typical issue is valve lash is out of spec. Would start there first. Next would be hydrolocking. As is pulling the oil stick and smelling for fuel. Next test/check would be poor battery or control cables and connections...

Could be. Pull the kill wire off the coil. Should empty the gas tank If the coil is good.

All batteries and electrical circuits need LOAD TESTED. Putting a meter on a battery with a dead cell means zero. Oh I see 12 volts means nothing.

Got to clean the rim like a new one. All rust and nicks got to go. Run your naked hand all around the rim feeling for bad/sharp spots. Also feel inside the tire for loose cords which can be steel shards poking the tube. I have 2 wheel barrow tires with blown out cords. I've had to take a file...

One reason why I don't use the Christmas light style spark tester. I want to see spark hop a 1/4"+ gap in free air. PET-4000 can't be beat for testing spark. Seen several coils have weak to minimal spark. Most I can polish the coil and block mounting pads up to restore the ground. Mounting...

I like the old school beam style. Like that Craftsman second from the right in the picture above. None of us operate a calibration truck. Get what you like.

Test the battery at an auto parts store. New doesn't mean new. Engine stopping is no spark or fuel. You are lacking one or both.

Throw a tube in her. Slimes and foam are your last options. Maybe your wheels are too small for tubes????

Pull oil dip stick, smell for fuel. Is the oil level on the FULL mark? Not over nor under? Could be a stuck open carb needle. I would verify spark as a quick free check.

That is high. Might need to de-carbon the cylinder and valves per your engine manual. Briggs motors are mostly 8:1 compression. Definitely inspect the valve lash or lack of. Tells me your battery might not be charging and or definitely needs charged. At rest 12.6 is fully charged. Take battery...

Are you running it with no engine shroud or top engine cover? As in you can see the flywheel and flywheel fan blades? Big no-no if this is true. Pull the fuel tank. Needs to be clean like a new one. Grass, bugs, dirt, leaves and such can plug up the tank outlet. Install all new fuel lines...

Which is not a true synthetic. All motor oils in the US have no regulatory body to demand the product is a real synthetic oil. Europe does. We all can thank our court system for that. It's your mower. I have no fight in this. Run what you like. Better than not adding any fresh what ever oil of...

I was just about to comment on this very same point. Motor oils are formulated for cars and trucks. Hydro oils and for hydros. If I ever had a mower with hydros I would use hydro fluid. Never happen as I will never have a mower with hydro anything. All that loud whining growling sound means trouble.

IF it is the head gasket, it can have a gasket leak that gets into the push rod tunnel that goes back to the cam and oil sump. From the oil sump out the block breather hose inside the air filter housing. So head gasket to cam tunnel then oil sump. Oil sump to block breather and breather hose...

First off that stinks to pull the engine off to get the muffkin off. That would be my luck. Not any help but what type of camera did you use on that pic? Never mind. You live at the South Pole. I would spray her with rust converter then header paint prior to bolting back on.

Order extra flywheel keys and get the proper OEM torque value for the flywheel bolt. Most are a tapered shaft. Polish the crank end meaning remove no material, just polish and clean up. The inside of the flywheel needs cleaned up/polished too. Some flywheels have a key that is kinda hidden...

Disconnect that rigid choke linkage for testing. That rigid piece of wire that connects to the choke. Manipulate the choke plate with your fingers a lit easier. Should stumble down in revs and make some black some out of the muffler.

I see some blow-by coming out of the carb. Might want to pull the head and check for a blown head gasket. It's visible all the time you have your hand on the throttle. Look right below your right thumb in the video. See that smoke puffing out of the breather/engine? Seeing a little black smoke...

Most mowers are 8-8.5:1 compression. 87 octane E-0 is fine. Now if you want to talk chainsaws, 91 E-0 is your friend. Some blowers might be over 10:1 so check your manual for clarification.

I would add a Battery Tender brand. In winter, pull it from the mower and bring inside on the tender. Will make your battery last 2-3 times longer than leaving it outside.

Use to drain everything over the winter. Lines obviously will dry up in that few months, crack and leak. Started using stabilizer year round. Stopped having to replace fuel lines in 5 mowers, back pack blower and trimmer. Oh and the hedge trimmers too. Never have to recall how old is this gas in...

Use what works for you but I prefer NGK. Not for nothing.

20 mule team Borax and plain old white sugar, 50/50 mix. Great for killing ants, termites and most other bugs. They like us go for the sugar and get the Borax sleeping pills LOL. Just sprinkle a little on a mound and they will take it to the queen. Bye bye..... Easy on the environment too.

camshaft time?

Appreciate you helping a fellow mower junkie out. (y)

Okay this is getting crazy. The main still sounds partially clogged. It does give a little more fuel and less air when choked down. Slightly smoothing out the engine. I hope you fully choked it down. Looking at the top of the carb. There is a choke plate which is physically away from the engine...

What I was getting at was if you lower the revs the battery might not charge proper. Keep her at 3600rpm. Some have a small charging coil of say 3 amps. One engine crank will take a while at topping off the battery at 3 amps.

yes

But it will outlast all the new battery mowers out there x10. Think we are in the polishing up stages.

Windoze can do it without any special big brother reporting apps.

Easy there. Think what Bert was getting at is any oil contamination is no good. I'm guessing, that internal brake is a wet brake design? Inside the pump motor? I don't know. I will never own any mower with hydros. Belts are so much easier and cheaper to maintain.

Did you set them incorrectly? There are 2 top dead center strokes on a four stroke engine. One valve all the way open or pushed into the head, adjust opposite valve. Rotate engine doing the same for the other valves. If one valve is open, other valves are safe to set.

Are you running this down at a low idle? Say when getting off to open gates? Moving into the garage or field? Trying to save gas? Trying to slow the mower speed down by lowering revs? That "new" battery will require load testing to confirm it is good.