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Look at the spec sheet on both, mainly the footprint / mounting bolts , shaft size etc.

what size is the largest one ? If it's under 2 inches in diameter , the O ring kit will probably have it

Not sure what size the o rings are but an O ring kit may have one you can replace it with , I've had to build o rings in the past with o ring stock and superglue when push comes to shove

Pull the motor and remove the seal, there should be a number on it for replacement , I'd get 2 so you'll have a spare

By the bottom are you referring to the crankshaft ? is the piston going up and down ? , Pull the spark plug and watch your piston to see if it's moving, it should roll very easy with no compression , you can put a rod through the plug hole and watch it move with the piston , if no movement you...

Will it roll 360 degrees in any direction ?

I worked on one and found the drive motors were missing some bolts, throwing belts and stuff, maybe look at your mounting hardware in that area

So it does not turn over ? or doesn't start ? two different problems for the help you need

Sounds like ignition switch issue, after the starter is engaged it should return to ON position and retain power to the ignition coils , they're not expensive to replace

Drain and change your oil first, if there's gas in the filter, there's gas in the sump too. Can only get in there from the carburator as far as I am aware. You should see higher than normal oil level when gas is present. Sometimes this happens when your machine is sitting over night or for a...

If the flywheel key is only slightly sheared , it aint starting

Not sure there is any air / fuel ration adjustment but I agree with Slomo assessment, be sure your air cleaner is clean also. Running rich will not give you blue smoke in my opinion, running rich will not run well at all and will be struggling to keep at idle too.

If you have a bent push rod , there's a reason , you need to pull the head and look at the piston.

Does it surge under load when cutting Grass or just running at idle

Does your Idler pully float or is it stuck in one position

I run them in with an Impact

Sounds like you're pretty handy with this type of work, Let us know what it ends up being

If it runs good with no load it's doubtful you have a fuel or carburator problem, You need to look at the linkage to the governor first , maybe a spring is missing or the linkage is off , when a load is put on the machine the governor should react and maintain the rpms. Make sure you have good...

I ran across a similar issue ended up changing both coils , turns out it had been running on only one coil for a while and when the only good coil failed , it gave the impression that both coils failed at the same time which would be a strange coincidence .

Maybe some trash or debris in the carb area and it cleared up , small gas engines can be fickle

If it will not start with starting fluid , it's not a fuel problem , better look elsewhere

Better look at your blades and see if there's anything wrapped up in there for it to shut your machine down.

Not sure thread size but it's a machine thread with an o ring if I remember correctly, when you unplug it , it returns back into the seat which shuts off fuel, it take voltage to retract the plunger and allow fuel to get into the carb bowl. It appears it works for start up but might be loosing...

The plunger stops it from backfiring when you kill the machine I think , I removed mine when trouble shooting the same problem and experienced this. Good way to test though

Might just be the solenoid if the power is constant and clicking continues

The Solenoid under the carb should have voltage when the key is turned on , this opens the fuel flow to the carb, sounds like the connection there is faulty, connect a separate 12 volt supply to the solenoid and start the machine, if it runs good then your wire from the key switch to the...

If it was your safety's it would not do anything when you try it, so If I understand you , your machine will start but then dies after running a bit , It sounds like a fuel problem, I had a similar issue and found the fuel supply side was sucking air from a bad hose connection , Drop your...

Lots of know how on this forum, you'll benefit

Has to be a way to get at it , Most only have 2 wire plug , see what yours is

I've removed the brake altogether on mine but that's just me

Ok well if I understand correctly , this engine will turn over as it is with a jumper cable hooked up, this tells me you have a starter problem not a safety switch issue, if a safety switch is holding you out from starting , the jumper wouldn't help. If you pulled the starter and it spins good...

The safety switches are either normally open or closed , you'll need an ohm meter to test , there are several , One on the seat , one on the brake and possibly the clutch pto. maybe a couple of others , How did it run last time you used it ?

Not sure these new carbs can be adjusted other than idle speed , Probably need to pull it and clean it good , might have some debris in the bowl or jets

I get replacement spindles from Amazon , not sure if they'll list your exact spindle but it will show dimensions and you can figure out if it will work from there, shaft size / length ,pully dimensions etc. Bolt pattern as well

I think they're lock nuts , neve torqued them but 80 sounds about right, I usually just use my impact and spin um up

Back side under the mower engine where the main drive belt is , look at it and put your meter on the wires that plug into the clutch, engage the clutch and watch your test light or meter, if it shows voltage and still does not turn the belt , it's probably bad,

Sounds like your clutch is the problem

Next time this happens verify if it is a firing problem or fuel, sounds like you've focused on ignition , look at the fuel supply next

One of those switches is bad

The choke plate is the one you can see on top, I've never had much luck cleaning a carb unless I take it down and do it manually , the smallest particle of rust or whatnot can be stuck in the jet , take it apart and blow through everything with compressed air and then some WD 40 and reinstall...

is there an automatic choke on this machine ?

Check what you're calling the " trigger"wire for ground, The wire should have 12 volts on it in the start position , nothing while in Run or off , start there, Possibly you have the wrong wire as Trigger wire ? or landing it on the wrong terminal

If you jump ( bypass ) the solenoid and it kicks off , your starter is good but either your solenoid is bad or you have a bad connection - wire causing an open circuit or your ignition switch is not working right.

You may want to pull the starter and bench test with 12volts , it should Jump and spin freely if not , bad starter, Clamp it down good b/c it will Jump off the bench when you hook the voltage

Unplug the pigtail and use a jumper straight to the starter solenoid small terminal , maybe your pigtail connection is corroded

I would test the ignition switch without it connected to anything, use an ohm meter or use jumper with 12volts to the correct terminal on the switch , turn to on position and verify power, then start position and watch your test light , I've seen bad ignition switches straight out of the box. If...

Maybe post a pic or two, Kubota's are very hard to work on I find , seems like they're built so you have to take them to the dealership

No they lower the prices to get you to get the mower , now you have to buy the replacement batteries from them and they'll get their money back and then some

Someone brought me a Greeworks mower,,,,,,,battery checked ok, motor was Fried,,,,So sick of these Green new deal people

If it runs out completely you'll need to choke to restart , nothing too unusual about that but make sure your choke is working