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So with non-detergent oil, is your oil perfectly clean? All the trash/carbon/unburnt fuel and such falls to the bottom of the oil sump? So are the internals clean as new parts all the time? I've never ran non-detergent oil. Briggs and the others recommend detergent oils.

YES!!!!

Clearly wasn't. She had zero knowledge of small engines.

GE 100% clear silicone is a fabulous product. Often wondered if it would be good on valve covers and the like. I know it has vinegar which is acidic. Not good on aluminum parts and such that can corrode.

Waiting on the RTV guys to show up to the party...... 🍿 🍿 (y):D🍿

Can't you just measure the diameter of the tank opening and get any cap for it? Long as the threads will play ball? Vented would be nice.

I sold a cherry super clean Snapper RER on face trash market place. Tuned her all up. Lady bought it. Said it ran great for one day. Next day for her wouldn't start........ Went to her house. I pulled and pulled and pulled, no start. Cranked with the starter over and over and over. Choke was...

Best way is sell it and hire a pro lawn crew.

You would do more changing the oil once every three months. Only holds like 18 ounces. Not like you are doing an oil service on a container ship.

Shop vac on the oil filler tube. Remove filter. This will cut down on the mess. Still have some oil in the filter. Could punch a nail hole in the filter quickly pulling the oil away with the shop vac.

A tank that old, I doubt was clean. Have to take your word on it. If it came with points she is an old girl. Found dirt in carb but not in the tank. Ok...... Was the emulsion tube removed and cleaned? Most likely that old carb will need to be boiled for an hour or more. Probably never get the...

Parts list shows a magneto. Oh, it also show points and condenser.

Adding jumper cables into the mix can be a crap shoot. You are adding more items inline to the starting equation which is not a true test of starting. Stout fresh battery charged up and clean grounds is the ticket.

Let's back up a bit. Has the battery been LOAD tested? Best to find someone with a carbon pile tester. They are the most accurate compared to the new plate resistance junk toys Autozone and the like use. IF the charger puts out 50 amps in start mode, it won't do it for long. It will get hot...

O' Real'ies and NAPA have valve lapping cup sticks in stock. Online as well.

You can safely spray 2 stroke mix in every engine out there. One mix for all.

Show us pictures of the cooling fins all around the cylinder/s. 🍿 🍿 (y)

Engine sure resembles it was over-heated. When valve guides move around and part start snapping...... Ever clean the cooling fins? It's a yearly or more often maintenance item in EVERY air cooled engine manual I've seen.

What does this tell you? Engine needs air, fuel, spark (at the correct time) and compression to run. She is thirsty........ Stuck on ACR I see. Ignored the fueling deficiency above. Take some 2 stroke mix. Spray directly into the carb inlet. See how long she will run WHILE spraying 2 stroke...

With 145psi in a Briggs, sounds to me she is all carboned up internally. Yours and every other engine manual out there states to de-carbon the engine say like every 5-7 years. Your other tests look good to me. 10.8 volts cranking is good.

Did you get this running yet?

Man those look awfully similar. Other than the one and the two. Sure look like cracks to me. Strange way to put casting numbers on. ????

She is an auto-choker. Easy to get running proper. Someone on here had a manual all about the autochoke system. Had lots of great tips in it. Need to look into yours and make sure it's working proper. Look into the autochoke first. Then if it is working proper, dive into the carb or filthy...

Agree. Plastic on the float and such are nice and white.

Means zero to me. Battery needs to be LOAD tested to confirm. Find someone with a real carbon pile tester. Call all the auto parts stores and ask if they have one. It's the only real, accurate way, to test a battery. How far, does it jump in free air? How big of a gap till it starts sputtering...

I applaud this guy for doing this. Would be tremendous if he did get it running. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Now fix the rod and put a big pipe plug in the side of the block. Can later check your oil, directly, using the plug LOL.

Nice....... Thanks for letting us know. Now go slay some grass.

No engine numbers provided. Do you have a fuel pump or gravity feed? At this 15 minute mark, do you have a solid fuel flow INTO the carb inlet? Are both cylinders firing? A thermal IR gun will tell you instantly if they are or not.

It runs on air, fuel, spark (at the correct time) and compression. You tell us if YOU think the lack of fuel is an issue. Mark gave you a good place to start. I didn't see any videos either. Upload to youtube and link them here so we can watch your videos.

Welcome. Don't glob on RTV if you ever adjust the valves.

LOVE all the RTV on the valve covers. :p :ROFLMAO: (y)

THAT is an after-fire solenoid. If kills fuel into the main jet only, to stop gun shot like sounds when the key is turned OFF. Engine winding down pulls fuel into the hot muffler and you get a nice Uncle Buck like BANG. When you turn the key on, should have battery voltage there at the...

Even without mice chewing around. I would be nervous to leave that on a charger unattended.

This time of year weather is cooling off. Mice and rats look for a new home. Might bait out your property and clean up areas of piled up junk if you have those. Obviously missed a wire or ten with the electrical tape job. For future issues, mowers bounce around all over your yard. Means the...

12.4VDC is a low charged battery. Need to run her at 3600rpm to keep the battery up. Even then a Battery tender every couple months is not out of line. Alternators do not top off batteries. Want proof? Drive your car or truck for an hour. Connect a Battery Tender up as soon as you get back...

The more dusty the environment the more you change the oil. Needs at least yearly oil dumps. If you are a pro lawn crew much more often. Oil is cheap, just change it out.

Best way to remove carbon is heat. Meaning temperature heat here. Not the gimmick in a bottle to remove water in the gas tank. Just like cleaning your oven in the kitchen. If you bake something and turn the oven off, immediately start cleaning with soap and water. The food comes off much...

Carb float height excessive?

Ok so most everything mechanical sounds like it's working as normal. Dump the gas and try some fresh E-0 unleaded juice. Wonder if someone, has been in the carb with a welding torch tip cleaner enlarging the main jet/s? Choke staying wide open once warm?

Are they resistor plugs? What is the resistance measurement through the plugs? Run some non resistor plugs. I try to cross over non resistors for all my OPE. How large of a gap will the coil fire? Fouling plugs can be weak spark. How about cam timing at the cam gear? Far as the muffler...

Back slamming out of the carb is improper ignition timing, super lean air/fuel mix, valves out of spec or weak spark.

Just so we all know, a circuit with no amperage flow shows a drastic difference (voltage drop) compared to a loaded to the fuse rated one. IF there are issues on said circuit that is.

Not for nuth in' but most every push mower has one. When you let go of the dead man lever, the brake pad stops the flywheel.

Check the valves or most likely carb needle flooding the cylinder. Pull the oil dip stick and smell for gasoline. If you smell gas, fix the carb first then dump the oil a few times. Do NOT try and run it with gasoline diluted oil. It will trash the engine. Or you have tall grass chaff...

Summation, all circuits require LOAD testing. Totally agree. As in a 10 amp circuit needs 10 amps for a full health check on said circuit.

Check the main ground and the ground to the EFI module. Those EFI boxes are picky about proper power and grounds. STOP replacing parts until you get it running. Every new part you buy REQUIRES testing. New doesn't mean new these days. Should be nothing wrong with a fuel filter at 32 hours...

Hope the fuel filter caught the debris you blew out.

He probably had the key ON when he connected the battery cables. Little spark jumped a bit. Maybe he has headlights that come on with the key???? Or the solenoid is shorted closed slash welded from amperage strikes when the key goes to start??? OP doesn't know what a solenoid is. Probably...

No.

Pull the starter and bench test it. LISTEN to the starter turn over. Should sound plenty strong.