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depends how good you are with mechanical things as to what to do next. The two problems may not even be related, or maybe you got the valves too tight and one is hitting a piston etc..

just a guess but look for a spot where two panels come together about the width of the center section, or a place you might lift something on it that might cut - maybe a panel, seat handle etc.. You not providing a model and serial number is going to stop folks around here from looking at parts...

Go to a local motorcycle shop and buy an inexpensive kit to lubricate cables. They come with a tool and can that forces lubricant all the way thru the cable. Used on on my VW bus heater cables, which were stiff since new, and what a difference it made. Or you can buy a cable luber tool seperate...

the CJ8Y has a projected nose. You'd have to make sure it doesn't hit the piston etc.. edit: I see others have already mentioned it on page 1, and how to use clay to check for interference.

Don't assume the new coil is good, and don't keep firing the parts cannon. Get a schematic for your specific mower and determine how that coil works. Example - does it rely on other circuitry to make a spark, or is it a basic magneto that just needs to have the magnets pass by it.

Thank you. Funny thing but I have the equal of this book for the L-Head engines and this image below is not in it.

It was put together before this thread started. Completion is waiting on one part from Briggs before the build can be run.

Does "You got it?" mean are you asking if I have the answer, or telling me that what I did is correct? The youtube guy did not give me the warm fuzzies that he had it right either, but that is how I think it works, and how I put it back together. I still don't understand how the...

I found this image online in a youtube. Is this the correct way to install - basically does the sump plate keep it in this position, or is there something else needed? The book says some use a spring washer on top of the plate that goes over the cam, but the 125K02-0189-e1 does not use one.

This is on the 125K02-0189-E1 06041958 engine I am rebuilding. When I took it apart, the governor assembly fell off with the sump plate. This is the first time I've had one of these engines apart. When I put it back together, I made some guesses how the governor goes. If someone is familiar...

I know the technical answer but am asking anyway to verify the number. The Briggs book gives max end gap and ring land clearance, but not minimum gap. The engine is a 125K02-01890E1 06041958 . New piston and rings in a new bore. The 2nd ring comes in about .030" with a book spec max of .045"...

Can think of three things that might cause that: 1. cam timing is off. If the engine was rebuilt then someone did not time it right. If this happened during use then it is a plastic cam machine that the cam lobes moved on the steel part of the shaft. Not totally unheard of. 2. The exhaust is...

best bet would be to join a forum dealing with that brand outboard motors, or find a dealer who sold Evinrude 30 - 40 years ago. Fuel lines can go bad and drip down the outside of a carb also. That said, have you done a Google Search using "TEIKEI 5BK 6G905"? I got many pages when I Googled...

what others wrote. All the mulching mowers I ever owned needed a mulching plug. Unfortunately they seem to bring a small fortune even used on ebay. Sometimes Amazon has the right one. Without the model and serial number for your mower, it is unlikely anyone here can help you look for one.

normally on a gear like that, I would use a wire brush on a drill to go round and round the shaft so there is no rust. Then I would use a bearing plate under the gear and a puller on that. Make sure there is no pin or set screw on it.

take your time and don't fire the parts cannon without going thru the things that have been mentioned.

what brand plugs and where did you get them? When is the last time the valves were adjusted? What you are describing can have many causes. Basically you have a problem either with ignition, compression or mixture. If the ignition fails on one cylinder, say a bad counterfeit plug you got on...

check pulleys for play, check trans and engine mounts, check the tension spring, and frame for cracks that allow it to overly flex. Since it seems to be happening when you stop etc., that would be the moment the engine, transmission and frame flex the most.

yes it does. It significantly changes pulley spacing, and tension on the belt as it wears. watch

even at 60 psi it should run some. Pull the plug out, crank it over a few times and let it sit ten minutes. Might be flooded with a wet or fouled spark plug.

I don't know all the different models. That said, any model with a brake shoe that rests against a pulley has a change in belt geometry when the brake wears. If this model has such, then check it. If it does not, ignore this as a possibility. That said, below is a diagram of that model...

also if it has a brake pad that rides on the pulley, check that. Mowers that use that type brake have a known issue because a worn pad changes belt geometry.

there might be a little water in the fuel would be my first guess. A wiring fault as my second guess, or debris in the fuel tank my third guess. Try adding a some 99% Isopropyl alcohol to the fuel tank, or some HEET or any other additive that removes water.

thank you. new one now staked in. old one was already staked and mostly flat. I staked the one in the kit and gently tried to lift it. It is in there. There was also a smaller one that fit a spot on the exterior. That passage was not drilled so none was probably ever there, but I put it in...

went to clean out the ultrasonic parts cleaner and this welch plug was in it. I am guessing it goes where the arrow points. Looked at the engine case, and the carb exterior, no signs of where a plug would go. Nor can I think of anything else on the engine where their might be one. The plug...

yes

Glad you found the problem. What I was referring to is a common reason belts toss on some mowers, or belts seem too loose. Look at the difference in geometry with worn and new pads.

let us know if it spins with the spark plug out. That test will tell a lot. Regardless, clean all the ground connections to be sure they are clean.

yes, made of rice straw

the cost to ship each style blade would be almost the same. That includes front office, shipping, stocking in a warehouse etc.. They probably even ship in the same size box. The dies to make the blades don't care whether one blade gets sold or two. It is one thump on the press for one blade...

maybe a compression check might be something you can do to figure out the health of the cylinders. If there is a knock, that would be a connecting rod, and if so, don't let it grenade the engine.

wouldn't know. I buy only factory parts these days, and only from the manufacturer site. Seems like everytime I buy the cheaper product, it doesn't last. For blades get them from Oregon, Sten, Toro etc.. The only time I order something off brand is when the original is NLA and there are none on...

yes. The people running government on the West Coast have good intentions but their delivery of those intentions results in nose wiggles to accomplish them - "We want therefore it will happen... ." Califodnia AB54 will take effect anyday. That outlaws plastic packaging. Like I told my other...

check the brake pads. If it is the design where the pad rubs on the pulley, as the pad wears the belt gets loose.

Based on theor specs, the connrecting rod journal diameters are different for one thing. StarTech posted the tech bull dimensions.

I was going to start building it tomorrow since everything is cleaned up etc., but I looked it over carefully. On closer inspection, there is a crack running from the flaw in each direction. There is also another one that interescts it a little ways from it, so there is likely to be a bigger...

yes. The new valves barely rock. Need to lap them in and check for bent. then check the gap and tip them until the clearance is in spec. We used to use a valve grinder to tip valves. Here I just do the unthinkable, use the side of a quality wheel as far out as I can, spin them as I lightly touch...

That helps.

320 grit 2 3/4 Ball Hone came in. Took 6 strokes on the block of this 125K02-0189-E1 Briggs engine. One of the dark spots wasn't a spot. It is a casting flaw. And, it has been that way for at least 300 hours. Probably the poof of oil smoke sometimes when starting it since new. Since it is far...

new valves came in. They barely wobble at all in the guides. Well within spec from a machinist's point of view.

is it a sludge or is it dried and caked varnish from dried fuel? Here is what Google AI says: These chemicals work rapidly but must not be used on plastic tanks, as they can warp, melt, or dissolve certain polymers. [1] Acetone: A highly aggressive, clear solvent that thins out and cuts...

I went ahead and ordered the two parts. Have about $100 less than a new engine of similar displacement. That said, this engine will be fine and last another 10 - 20 years when done. I looked on Ebay and there were probably 25 cams for sale - mostly used, but some new. Nylon does age even sitting...

thank you. I was actually concerned about that.

this thread is three pages and too much to do to read them all again so I'll just answer. Have you done a compression test with the engine cold, and another with it hot? if the valves are too tight to where heat is opening them, the pressure will drop significantly with the engine hot.

rebuilding a 125K02-0189-E1 06041958 engine on a Toro 20055 mower. Trying to keep costs down on the rebuild or it doesn't make sense. Likewise, it doesn't make sense to put parts back in that only have a short life expectancy left. Is there any reason not to reuse the cam and governor? The...

This is a 2025 thread that has been opened with a different question.

one of the three is missing. Go back over it. Try a new spark plug also.

if you look at parts for a later model, the belt portion is at the top. You can see the flats also. The spring washer goes on top of that and the nut on top of the washer. The same washer is also used on the other pulley too.

So when an engine is overfilled, the level can cause frothing, where the oil gets really foamy. Air in the oil is not good for lubrication. Personally I would find a way to remove the drain and let a little out. There are kits at places like Harbor Freight that can pull the oil out with a hand...