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I don't believe this is the current problem, but you may want to turn that fuel filter around...

thanks to my feeble old brain, somewhere i read about a welch plug 'sealer'. but i dont remember where i saw it. anyone have any idea?

:LOL:

will do that when i get back in garage

18 bucks on ebay?? worth a shot or no?? i got a carb on amazon one time, for a different application, float and needle laid in bottom of bowl ( no hinge pin)...........

does anyone think these are worth buying...

main adjustment doesnt make a difference until it is closed all the way.............

just an update, i pulled the carb (also adjustable) from an 8hp tecumseh on an old snowblower, gave it a cleaning and tried it. same surging, same belching black smoke now and then. im thinking im missing something. gonna pull the fuel line at carb and check for good flow, make sure it is not...

ill get those numbers asap

i am trying to overhaul this adjustable carb on a tecumseh 9hp snow king. this number is stamped in the carb body. is it a legitamate number? or a casting number? 1433J6X see attached photo, i think i found a kit on ebay. would the 7 ,8 and 9 Hp engines use the same kit?

i have tested every carb ive done with my vacuum pump, my question was.. when Pressure testing, is the weight of the float all that is needed with carb inverted?

just a quick question, when pressure testing with carb invertedm is it done with just the weight of the float holding needle shut??

yes i agree with the dirt removal,, ive been cleaning and rebuilding carbs since 1974,,, i use the Awesome inside the house too, will give it a whirl in the cleaner.(y)

one more important thing i forgot to mention, the 3 little transfer holes in throttle bore were cleaned with a small L-shaped wire. no restriction, although... i did not remove welch plug. wondering if dome dirt or corrosion trapped behind it?

ill give that a shot!

i am going to try the 8hp carb tomorrow, working today. i will say, when it goes from idle to mid or hugh speed with throttle lever, it will stumble, puff black smoke, surge a few times then smoothe out. the washer is under the spring on main jet, lost one once so pretty careful about those. im...

yes Stabil

adjustable type.............

yes will re test with pressure after i remove carb...for the 3rd time:LOL::rolleyes:

cans are 2 yr old plastic. sealed,,,and they sit inside garage yr round. and as i said, same problem after ultra sonic cleaning and re assembly

it's the adjustable type...will check governor, but when it surges it seems to puff a wisp of black smoke

OK, enough!! 3rd time with this Tecumseh 9hp carb is too much. still will not run right, surging... cant adjust it out under load or low speed, checked needle and seat with vacuum pump after reassembly... held vacuum for as long as i left it.new carb abd intake gaskets so i am assuming no air...

OK HOLD THE PHONE!!!:D:) i just want to thank all of the great small engine techs and repair shops for all the info.!! being a 45+ yr retired auto mechanic, i can fully appreciate the influx of knowledge that can be had here just for the asking! as we all know, automobile engines are like small...

yes for sure

i suppose that would get hotter than my ultrasonic heater... i think that lomit is 140 F

thanks for the tip, i was thinking of a degreaser/detergent

thats good advice, i am in the habit of blowin the dirt off the outside with carb cleaner and an air nozzle. and i have been changing it every use. ive prolly only done 15 carbs since i bought it.

just looking for a few opinions, i have an ultra sonic cleaner i bought from Harbor freight... ( dont laugh please) it works pretty well i think, sometimes after 2 cleanings for stubborn dirt. i bought the solvent from harbor freight... what kind of cleaners do ya all use ?? im thinking of...

just to comment on Kroil, when i was a mechanic many yrs ago, a faithful cusomer brought his 47 Willys in for all new spring shackles. he also brought a can of Kroil from the maintenance shop at his factory. he was in no hurry for the Willys back...he said to "wire brush the thick rust off the...

when i take them out, they get replaced with an iron fittng and plug!

my sister ruined a rider with less than 30 hrs on it when a stick kicked up, dislodged the twist lock, lost the oil while she was mowing, she was unaware the oil was leaking,,, until the engine locked up! one more for the scrap heap, due to a manufacturer "built in self- destruct device":cool:

just a quick note here, i have seen several craftsman and jd mower decks fitted with grease fittings at top of spindles. yet on disassembly, found sealed spindle bearings, both sides not 1. my thought always was... how can the grease get into the bearings?? i dont think it was intended to force...

roughly 15 years ago, on an older Craftsman rider i had , i took the spindles apart... removed the inner seals.. and drilled and tapped for greasefittings... right thru the side of mandrel between bearings, making sure they could be reached with the deck and pulleys on. since then, i have...

ive seen that issue before...a backyard handyman incorrectly assembled choke parts

sounds like someone wanted to make a quick buck... or hundreds:confused:

i have a 20HP briggs on a craftsman rider, makes a similar noise. disassembly showed too much clearance on the counterweight rods. anyone else experience this? runs great , mows well...just that annoying rattle

if it has an automatic choke... be certain the linkage is not binding, it should be closed when cold. i had one with a weak choke thermo spring, also had one binding on the pivot shaft.

on that note, i have 3 craftsman riders i have converted to 'greasable spindles' . i change the bearings, remove the inner seals and install a Zerk mid-spindle between the bearings. i have run one deck for 4 mowing seasons without an issue. i use a hand grease gun so i can 'feel' resistance and...

dont be too hard on yourself... i am a 69 yr old retired mechaic, and ive done plenty of silly moves myself..."If i would have known id live this long, id have taken better care of myself " :cool:

or stripped crankshaft gear where the key is..

broken camshaft??

its been o n the back burner for 3 months now...i started a part time job... garage has been closed temporarily

Has anyone tried running one of these engines WITHOUT the counterweight inside??? ready to experiment...i recently acquired another engine, this one a 20hp... same noise...

i wish folks could all be on the same side of the fence with "non-start up " terms. not turning over, wont 'catch' etc...it either cranks and will not run, or...it will not crank with the starter... cmon folks..

remove the sump and make SURE the timing gear on crankshaft keyway is not stripped. i went thru a similar situation with a briggs pressure washer engine

no it does not...but tks

i need to go measure the sump guide again..im thinking it was on the .248 side..

another thought, i wonder, with all the yrs Briggs has been using plastic internal parts... couldn't they have designed a replaceable nylon sleeve for the counterweight??

yesterday i was between jobs in my shop, i remembered quite a few times using a centerpunch to raise metal for a closer fit.so i put several marks on the edges of the sump. where the weight rides... the counterweight fits alot more snug on the sump. i know it will not be a permanent solution...