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Look for the carb float height being set too low.

Too aggressive of abrasive choice. Contacts need polishing. They make contact cleaning paper or used to. If the contacts are pitted you have one caveman try with low grit paper. Then polish to a mirror shine. Use some Flitz Metal Polish or the like and a slim cloth. Even a sheet of thick...

What about the actual cooling fins that cool this air cooled engine? Not the upper most top plastic cover.

From what the OP wrote, going with the usual, lack of fuel delivery slash improper air/fuel ratio. Bet it's time to check valve clearance, cooling fins and maybe de-carbon the cylinders per your engine manual.

Waste of money here. Still have this issue so the seafoam which was originally made for 2 strokes didn't work, again. Do the plugs say Torch on them? Where did you get the plugs from? Makes a huge difference. Same with the coils. Have you tested for spark with an open gap style spark tester...

Any new parts will require testing. As in your new carb. Carb needle/seat needs pressure tested. Float height needs to be set proper. Lot of people ignore this one. Float height can make a big rich or lean condition.

OEM carb or did someone save some money here? Yes if the carb needle isn't sealing proper. Pull your oil dip stick and smell for fuel. If you smell gas STOP using the engine. Report back here.

Crank the engine with the IR camera going. It will immediately show you where the problem is. Poor connections show up immediately as heat. These are a must have tool IMO. Say you have a DVD player or computer power supply acting up. Fire the IR cam at it. Will show you the components that are...

More like half a volt.

New machines are trash compared to what you had. Never seen any Deere bag anything worth remembering about.

Hobo Freight has some that is ok good. Honestly it works fine. Comes in a multi size kit for $6.99. https://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html

WD-40 gums up in six months time. Turns into a sticky mess. Better sprays like contact cleaners and enhancers one could use to spray on. Another tip is use marine grade heat shrink that has adhesive inside it. It ooozes out the end when hit with a heat gun. This weather seals each connection...

Probably a scamazon or fleabay starter.

Mower belts are not the same as automotive types. So don't go to your local auto parts house and try to match one up. It will work for a while......

What was the rpm at when she tossed the rod? Ever put a tach on her to monitor rpm's? Curious a Vanguard made in Japan tossing a rod. Guess anything is possible.

Sure they call it carb cleaner in a spray can.

Recommend downloading YOUR engine manual and read it cover to cover. Read it again. Lots of great tips in there for proper maintenance. Like cooling fin cleanings, de-carboning the cylinder/s and so on.

What do the cooling fins look like? Sounds like she was or is over heating killing the engine. Valve guides are not supposed to move. Should be the same installed height as the adjacent ones.

Are all those "new" parts OEM Kroller? If you pull the oil dipstick while running, should be plenty to vent the crankcase pressure on a fresh engine. Shouldn't be pumping out oil and blowing crank seals.......

Gentleman is 81 I saw (y). Did the rings get installed upside down???? Something was missed here. Cam timing waaay off?? OP said it only runs on full choke.

Did the head/s get lapped and a proper valve job done? De-carbon the cylinder/s per your engine manual? Valves move as normal not hanging open causing more pressure?

Amen to this. Lots of mower parts are no longer available new as well.

Probably can but lubricant attracts grit that wears the parts out even faster. Simple poor design is all.

Yeah why reuse it? Probably the OG fuel line anyway.

Get a simple bolt and sealing washer at the local hardware. Throw the solenoid in the trash. Maybe some fuel rated sealing type sealant on the threads or pipe dope. Don't know if pipe dope is fuel rated. Permatex I bet makes some.

Pull the oil dip stick and smell for fuel. If you smell gas let us know.

Needle must be wet as to simulate real world usage. Spray some say PB Blaster on it and retest YOUR method. Best method I now use instead of the pressure and gauge setup is run a clear hose say 1 to 2 feet higher than the carb. Squirt Diesel into the hose. Fill carb bowl up and hose at a high...

YES YES YES......

Did you test the carb needle and seat prior to installing? Amazon carb right? Save any money shopping there? :p

Okay I disagree with this one. I put all suspect fuel in the 5 gallon bucket. This bucket houses used motor oil and fuels. Spray it on your stockade fence keeping the wood like new. Great way to recycle.

Wow another person on here realizing the trash in the fuel can phenomenon. Been talking about fuel can spouts for a while. Not many comments on it. Nice......... (y)

What about all the oil, dirt and grass covering said coil? Mummy wraps the coil holding in all that heat. Good way to burn one out or degrade the spark.

You had me until you mentioned Heet. (y) Just drain the entire fuel system and carb bowl. Replace with fresh non E-10 juice and stabilizer. Not like you are draining a container ship here. I see no need to throw band-aids at some suspect fuel which is probably stale and full of water.

Did you check the oil by screwing IN the oil dip stick? Below is the proper way. Do NOT screw the dip stick in while checking level. Mover needs to be on the same cutting height on all four wheels and on LEVEL ground. Lastly check both sides of the dip stick for proper level checking.

What type of tester used? Old school carbon pile or the new mOhm meters? I've seen several batteries at Autozone and Oreiley's pass with their new mOhm testers. Took it inside on their real deal carbon pile super tool. Total fail on the pile tester. Guy was like hmmmm. I don't trust these new...

Solenoids can be random intermittent headaches as we all know. Might work on one testing then immediately fail. Electrical contacts get worn and stop working. Perfect time for a IR camera. Will SHOW you exactly where the problem is. One bump of the key will spotlight say a bad + connector on...

Look at all that dirty oily rust preventative under there. Looks like a leaker for quite a while. Check the engine block vent and reseal her up. Keep a sharp eye on the oil level.

So you don't see any corrosion at all? No suspect connections? Maybe it's my poor vision? I see the case is gone. If he has one bad connection probably more to follow.

Stunned it worked this long but I got my answer. It's a Snapper. (y)

OMG buddy. That is one corroded mower. Guess you live right on the ocean maybe? You might remove every wire and connector and clean/polish/renew each connection. No wonder it won't do anything for you. Add some dielectric grease after you clean each connection.

Take a picture of the engine and valve cover all around it. Anything that looks like a serial number. Post it here. Probably have to clean the engine first so you can see some metal and numbers. Clean the cooling fins while you are at it.

Super lean in my book. Main jet wants more fuel. Classic lack of proper air/fuel mix. Wait carb AND muffler? At the same time? Check flywheel key.

No to pulling check valves. Just a gentle micro blast of shop air. Nervous doing that.

Because I own my equipment not just work on them like you shop guys. I pull all rubber/plastic parts and inspect. Carb bowl gaskets usually get tossed.

As you already know, stay away from E-10 if at all possible. Less HP and MPG's are widely known. Wonder how much HP loss is in say a 5HP Briggs on E-10? Small engines like these have to be effected more than the next sentence below. I know there is a 2-3 MPG loss in a 2016 Suburban 5.3 V-8 on...

Guys, all mower tires need to go to a real tire shop. Sorry but some of them are a huge pain in the rump. Shops only charge a couple bucks for those small tires anyway. I don't even mess with them anymore. Got better things to do like slugging down some adult beverages on a hot summer day.

If you can install one side of the rim, put a large screwdriver or tire iron in there again as to hold that one side ON the rim. Then fight with the other bead.

Recommend getting a couple extra cans on facetrash marketplace. Make the drive if you are in the area where you can buy non Ethanol fuel. Put some old school formula Sta-Bil in every can.

Fuel hoses turn hard as a carp and are/can be VERY tough to remove. I think someone recommended cutting the hose off which is what it takes most of the time. If it's tough to remove, replace it. Keep a couple feet of new fuel line in your tool box.

Always pull any rubber or silicone parts prior to any ultra-sonic or boiling cleanings. Most of the time they need replaced anyway.