Search results

Don't count on it. ATF. no not a good idea in an air cooled engine. There is no engine manual on this planet that says to add ATF or any other snake oil to the oil sump. Tell your friend they need to read more.

If it has or takes oil, it WILL NEED TO BE CHANGED. Ooops, just let the secret out. Stunned by the question of should I change the oil or not? Only holds what 1.5 quarts total? Not like you are draining and refilling a container ship engine.

How much is a lot. Total fog out or a little plume of blue smoke? I would hone the sucker. Scrub the bore about 5 times with hot soapy water. Wipe out/off with WD-40. Reassemble and run it. Run her till she locks up or worse. Nothing to lose.

Pull the fuel line off AT the carb inlet. Should have a steady fat flow of gas. Drain the entire tank into a large glass jar. A small trickle is a red flag. Could have water in it or the tank cap vent might not be working.

To me it is working as normal. I see all that flopping around. Fact is that arm is not on bearings and won't move smoothly.

Leave the spring installed and leave it alone. Your friend needs to read more.

Where and when did everyone use brake cleaner for anything other than brakes? Stop buying that junk. It's very hard on the lungs. If you can smell it, your lungs are full of it as well. Think about it. You can use free water in a squirt bottle and do the very same thing. Way cheaper and less...

WHERE did the plug come from specifically? This will require testing. Tossing on new parts means zero these days. Test what you have BEFORE buying new parts. Need an open gap style spark tester. One that you can adjust or alter/change the gap size to stress the coil out. Also test for spark in...

Yes there are specs. Yes that engine can have the valve clearance checked. On an engine this old, betting the valves have never been looked at. Guessing it needs a full de-carboning as well. All this and a lot more in your engine manual. Lap the valve in. Lap head and area where the head sits on...

I see you are testing here. Wanted to point out, not to run the engine long without the top shroud. It directs cooling air around the block and cooling fins. Don't want you to burn the engine up. 2 minutes running without the shroud is too long. I would say at the 1 minute mark she needs...

That's all you do........ I can see that.

I would start, with a good CLEANING, of the machine. You have so much packed up debris and dirt not helping anything on top and below. Really need to drive it into a swimming pool at high speed. My friend, take a leaf blower or shop air at the minimum to attempt a cleaning at every mow. Power...

Heard that is pretty important on an air cooled engine. Do it yearly or more often if you bag for example.

Too much work......

Nice fat fuel flow AT carb inlet?

Fuel valve on or open?

Gas in the tank?

Glad to hear she is a runner again. At 7 years old, time for maintenance. 1.De-carboning the cylinder/s. More info in YOUR engine manual. 2.Adjust valve clearance as the others stated. 3.Install new fuel lines from tank to carb inlet. 4.Flush fuel tank/s. 5.Verify strong spark with open gap...

The above comments were all you got from that video? You might have the wrong tester??????? I would watch it all again my friend as I mentioned to you for free.

New doesn't mean new these days. Put your credit card away and TEST what you have. 6 pages now with no resolution. You are not listening to anyone on here. I gave you simple and cheap ways to test for spark. Spark is pretty important for starting and running. Take a piece of wire. Solder on a...

I have.

Air behind liquid........

Need to smack some aluminum material over the valve seat to hold it in. Kind of stake it in there..... Need to ask WHY the valve seat popped out? Ever clean the cooling fins? Ever? Great time to de-carbon the cylinder too. Do a valve job and set the valve clearance. Lap the head and block...

Let me guess, a bulb type spark tester.

Spray it into an 18 wheeler engine and watch the head lift off the block. Also washes all the oil off the cylinder walls. For cars, trucks and mowers, shoot 2 stroke mix in. Much safer than Ether and brake cleaner. Also easier on the wallet.

Pull the fuel line off AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar. Look for a nice fat flow AND water at the bottom of the jar. No fat flow = bad pump. Water seen = dump entire fuel system including carb bowl. Do a fuel system refresh. Pull and CLEAN the tank like a new one. FLOW test it with...

Pray for no back fires too. Just manipulate the choke plate fully closed and crank away.

If the X350 is that marginal, I would pass on it.

I could of told you this before you got one. Just another company cashing in on over priced mowers that us stupid American's keep buying.

Those you mentioned are petroleum grade slimes that can attack rubber o-rings. You want silicone grade goooo.

First thing would be take pictures of the ENGINE and mower numbers for future reference. Look at say 13-19 hp Briggs single cylinders in a parts list. Should be, all the same. Two longer shouldered ones and two shorter ones in the front or head side of the block. Best to reference YOUR engine...

Idler/tensioner pulley spring jump off? Belt routed proper? Definitely size the belts up. No two are the same even from the same brand. Agree with Mark, did you shop at an auto parts store for a MOWER belt?

Can also use a simple 12 volt test light grounded to bare metal. Can move the pointer end out away from the plug boot to stress the coil out.

IF you had an open gap style tester, you would of found your answer long ago. You would see a tiny orange zip when you needed a blue SNAP. Here is a good cheap one off Fleabay. I have one, it works for what I need. Also have the PET-4000 Cadillac top of the line tester. This one is 8 bucks to...

SMART guy, added a TON to this board. If he said it, it was gospel to me anyway. RIP Bert.

I can't nail down a time either. Only add that the alcohol has to dry the line out continually. Modern day cars and trucks have stainless fuel lines if they are flex fuel types. I think all the engine manufacturers claim E-10 is okay to keep selling engines in areas where all you have it...

All I could come up with.

Is that an aluminum bore or just my poor eye site and Kelvin light temp in the picture?

Just swap an LS motor in there. Chevy guys do it all the time. Much cheaper too. Going with no as well. Those are some deep gouges.

Last I heard Bert passed away???

I do on every o-ring or rubber washer.

I had two pushers that ran fine. Would barely jump a plug gap in free air. Put two new coils on. Run and start much better now. Plugs run much cleaner too. One was running super rich with lack of spark.

Amen to this. All starts with your fuel can spout type. I too would dump the tank and flow test it.

Use brake cleaner for, cleaning brake parts. Even then I use a garden hose and shop air. I want all that dust down the street before I dive into some pads.

Air hammer Candle wax Inductive heat gun Regular heat gun BFH Oxy/Act torch

OR clear the roots and trash. Tannerite, picks and shovels, high lift car jacks and so on. Old timers used to walk to yard prior to mowing. Saved a lot of head aches.

Always test your test equipment LOL.

Plastic or metal? If plastic, weld it up. Metal, solder it. Easy right?

Another good one.