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Just wait till you have to drill a grade 8 out. Will be passing up those in a hurry looking for grade 5. Torque spec on grade 5 dry is 112 ft lbs. Pretty gundy for a blade bolt. If you are breaking those, something else is wrong.

Do you use E-10 gas?

My opinion, me only, I would keep the Toro. Honda makes good engines no doubt. This is where they fail. They don't side sling. Push mowers have side slung since they came out. I LOVE mowing a tall patch watching the cuttings fly. So great engines and fair only mowers.

No You need to replace the fuel line from tank to carb inlet. Why? Fuel hoses deteriorate from the inside out. You can't see internal damage but maybe on the end.

Measure the filter or carb inlet tube with a caliper. Not at the swedged out part but the smaller main shaft OD. THAT is your hose size. I too don't like stretching hoses on.

CLEAN the cooling fins while you are there. All around the block and head/s. Best to check spark at night or low light condition. Kill the garage lights for example. YES fuel delivery issue. Dirty tank, hose, filter, shut off, tank cap vent, carb, open spout fuel can and so on. Find out...

Red and orange rust are not magnetic. Also won't hurt a thing sanding/polishing it off the magnets. What is helpful is polishing the coil mounting pads, coil where the screws contact and the screw heads and threads. Coil needs a clean ground path to work. Over time the rust in those areas...

Just cut it down and replace the line. Probably needs it anyway. As Taryl says, it's hard as a carp.

I agree with the others. Some flavor of Diesel oil that YOUR engine manual states.

Clean as in CLEAN, good man.

That is a short coil wire. Wonder if it is the correct part? Or someone shortened it looking to renew the connection? Looks suspect. How about pictures as in plural of the entire carb linkage, carb and so on? Is the valve cover leaking like it is? Maybe someone just checked the valves and...

Just like driving in front of a gas station smelling all the vapors.

There is it..... My man....... Good on you to fess up on it. I like you even MORE now. Enjoy the day.

So you admit it was a 5 minute job LOL. :D (y) (y) Joking of course. I bet you spent more time, fussing with that cured RTV, cleaning parts and mess, than would of taken to pull the engine. Just saying there are better sealants that don't cure hard like RTV one could use. I don't have a...

We were talking about testing pressure. Not gravity fed fuel tank pressures. If you test yours at 1psi good for you. I'll continue testing at 7psi.

Your engine, do as you wish. I would say wrong. Yeah, not buying it. One person could have that entire engine off the mower in under an hour with common hand tools. What 4 bolts, couple belts maybe one or two harnesses and a choke/throttle cable? What did I miss?

Dad bought a new 1968 Ford F150 or was it an F100 off the dealer floor? Any-who, had the 360 v-8. He ran Quacker State 10W-40 year round. Changed it twice a year regardless of mileage. Year 2006 rolls around. I swear, on oil change day, you must take the stick outside with reading glasses on...

Take a small diameter or garden hose at say 3 feet long. One hose end in your ear. Other on the spot at the head you think is leaking. Start the engine. Listen for a chuffing/huffing/puffing sound. Move the hose away from the area to confirm. Listen again.

My man, you need to get in the habit of checking it prior to EVERY mow. On the full mark, not under and def not over. Yours is pretty clean. Doing this is a must-do, yearly or more often, maintenance item, on every air cooled engine out there. Download your engine manual and read it a couple...

Coils need a clean mounting ground as well. Polish the areas where the coils sit and the screws plus where the screws sit. Air gap at a max of 0.010".

$1.39 to your door...

Toss your bulb type spark checker in the trash can.

Here, $1.39 to your door. Best tool you can get especially for the money...

Nice to have the engine numbers posted. Take pictures or post a video of it. Youtube it and link it here.

Yeah breather hose plugged up? Blow into it and test it.

See how yours is off? 1/16" to 1/8" shy of touching the air vane.

Read the service bulletin StarTech posted. It has everything about the autochoke and how to set it up. You might need to buy a new throttle spring and the air vane autochoke spring??

I do see a small tweak you need to make on the thermostat. The blue oval area needs to be in the center of the red lines on both axis. Push the metal arm (yellow arrow) the same direction as it is pointed. There are two plastic lines (red lines) on each axis telling you where it needs to be...

Crazy but sounds like your throttle plate is on backwards or throttle spring backwards? Makes no sense. Should warm up and the revs follow.

Again, that engine, should operate, at say 3600rpm, all day long. Yes one could have a throttle cable IF your mower has one to adjust rpm. You don't and shouldn't need to adjust rpm. Autochoke is made for a single speed engine, for the most part. Wondering if you possibly got the throttle...

FYI Recommend buying non-resistor plugs from a local auto parts store. Stay off scamazon and fleabay for plugs. They are highly pirated and are junk from online sites.

Nice job.

So sounds like faulty pumps. If you pull the hose off AT the carb inlet and have nothing, pump is lame. Obviously cranking the engine while doing this. One could install a higher than the carb aux fuel source for testing. If she runs like a top, AGAIN it points to a bad pump. Just for...

You know saws for sure and some if not all trimmers require hi octane fuel? These tend to have more compression. Push mowers and riders can use 87 non Ethanol all day.

Going with carb flooding. Pull oil dip stick and smell for gas. If you smell gas, STOP, don't try to run the engine. Fix the carb needle/seat first. Change the oil three times after it is all sorted. Oil is cheap. Install an inline fuel cut off valve.

You are in cool season grass land. High as your mower will cut. Fescues and other Kentucky Blue Grass like hybrids like it tall. Actually it's up to the home owner. Need to get their input on it. Look at de-thatching too. Everyone mulch mows. All those clipping that "they" say never decompose.

Don't be harsh on the engine too fast. I bet when new it was a one pull superstar. Probably never had any maintenance done. Cooling fins all packed up with debris. Valve clearance inspection I know what is that. LOL

Is this another Briggs autochoke? Take pictures or better yet, video of it with the top engine cover removed. Post it on youtube. Link it here so we can SEE what you are working on.

Screen grabs from an old Briggs MAX series just prior to the Quantum series. Roughly 1988 era.

These are air cooled mostly with some oil cooling. We all must keep the cooling fins clean and clear like a new engine block. If not look for engine damage like this. Cooling fin cleaning is in EVERY engine manual out there minus the water cooled ones. A yearly must do or more often. Download...

Please explain what exactly was this overheating issue and how was it repaired?

Just looking to clean/polish up the seat not remove material.

Try cleaning the seat with a q-tip and some either Flitz Metal Polish or Mother's Mag Wheel Polish. Some flavor of polishing cream. Clean out the polish when done. Carb cleaner or brake juice and compressed air.

My bad, so true. Different issue for sure. Had deck on the mind.

Could of lost an idler pulley or some other deck bearing. There is a heavy belt tensioning spring on a lot of riders that might of fell off. Most likely in your case simple wear and tear. Look at your parts list for your mower. Check everything drive related.

Stretch/wear, yes.

Yup sounds electrical. Ignition, safeties or mice chewing wires.

Doubt it.

All I've seen on mower carbs, 7psi for a traditional pusher/rider and no more than 10 I think it was for a radial 2 stroker carb? Someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that. I went for 7psi in my fleet. Worst thing that could happen is the needle blows off and you lose a little pressure...

What I've found....... Pressure testing is great. Needle must be WET as in spraying PB Blaster or similar before inverting and testing. 7psi for 30+ minutes with ZERO pressure drop. Used to do all this. Now Carb right side up. Long clear fuel hose ON the carb inlet. Squirt a fuel like Diesel...