What's the cap on top of the valve cover? Is it some type of PCV valve? Oil fill? It's on the diagram but not listed. There's also an elbow fitting on the cover shown on the diagram that's not in the PL. Is that where the pulse line hooks up? I apologize but I'm not super familiar with this engine. Would a bad valve cover oring or some other type of air bleed here cause pumping issues?
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Export threadI have a mid-90's Woods 6200 zero turn that has run fine since I bought it three years ago.
After sitting all winter, it refused to start this spring. I have pretty much run out of ideas as to what to check/replace next.
Symptoms haven't changed from when I started troubleshooting and replacing parts two months ago,.
That is, it will only stay running if I continually spray gas into the carb.
I installed a new carburetor, fuel pump, fuel filter and new fuel lines, including the hose from crankcase to fuel pump.
I primed the pump/filter/lines full of gas all the way to the carb but engine stalls out as it's not drawing fuel from tank.
I removed the fuel pickup from gas tank and tried drawing gas from a bottle while spraying gas into carb to keep motor running and the fuel pump won't suck any gas from bottle either.
I have tightened oil filter and oil fill cap to make sure vacuum/pressure from crankcase (if there) is preserved,
as it appears that maybe none is being created to suck fuel from tank and send it to the carb.
It seems the last thing to check would be to compression test the line from crankcase to fuel pump
but could that even be the issue if the motor runs fine when i feed it gas manually?
Engine is a Kohler Command V-twin with a Keihin 24 053 32 carburetor.
Any suggestions as to my next step would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks for the reply.Carb solenoid is not yet the issue. I read it as you have fuel to the pump, but it doesn't get pumped out. I have used a small electric fuel pump in the past and they work great. Not very costly. Just tie into a wire that is always on in the run position, like the fuel solenoid wire. If you replaced the carb, they usually come with new solenoids attached and you just may have to check for 12v being at it. Or take the solenoid off the BOTTOM of the old carb, plug it in and turn on the key. It will show wither you have 12v there.
Yes, new carb came with new fuel solenoid attached.
There is no fuel, other than in the gas tank. No matter what, the fuel is not evenbeing drawn into the the fuel pickup tube in gas tank.
My next attempt will be to fill every line and the fuel pump with gas…
-Tank to Fuel Filter In
-Fuel Filter Out to Fuel Pump In
-Fuel Pump Out to Carb
…..and hope that primes the fuel from tank to carb.
If you’re suggestions of adding a small electric fuel pump is an option I will look into that.
Thanks
Yeah...It seems I'm left with this being the issue through the process of elimination.Have you checked compression? Have had different motors that would run forcing fuel in the carb. but would not start. Valves could be leaking.
I made sure oil filter and oil fill cap were tight so no leaks there.
I still haven't checked with compression tester but I don't feel any noticeable suction when I cover the hose from crankcase with my thumb, while cranking engine.
Maybe the small 12v electric pump might solve it?
VegetiveSteam
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And it probably won't matter at this point as it seems you are not getting any fuel to the carb but remember, you need power to the fuel solenoid with the key in both the run and start positions. On these older units, the run circuit went dead when you turned the key to the start position. So having power with the key in the run position only tells half of the story.
VegetiveSteam
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Did you notice any oil in the hose?I don't feel any noticeable suction when I cover the hose from crankcase with my thumb
No oil in the hose from crankcase at all.Did you notice any oil in the hose?
i changed it for a new hose as the new fuel pump inlet was in a different spot and hose wouldn’t reach.
i will double check that I get 12v at solenoid when engine is cranking as well as when in start position.
Wont have a chance to check until tomorrow but will post back then.
Thanks
outdoorpowermike
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You can test the fuel pump. The suck side should have 1- 1/2 neg vacuum. Out side to carb should have 1-1/2 psi. You can check these with old time vacuum gauge. Green reading is push side to carb and red reading is suck side to gas supply. To test for pulse just put vac gauge at pulse outlet, if gauge pulses test good.
outdoorpowermike
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If these test show positive you have a defective fuel solenoid or fuel clog from fuel supply ( the fuel tank) to the fuel pump.