27HP Command Pro running issues

So here It goes, I bought a Craftsman DGT6000 (1998) with the 27 HP Kohler Command Pro V-Twin a month ago knowing It had some Issues. It started and drove when I went to look at It and the engine sounded good so I bought It. Got It home and started messing with It and found It burned oil bad. Everyone said head gaskets so I ordered some genuine head gaskets from Kohler and replaced them. Oil burning stopped immediately. Put In two new plugs from Kohler and a new air filter and new fuel filter. Let It Idle for 45 minutes while I went to go grab more gas and came back to It still Idling fine. Started cutting and made 2 passes and It starts bogging bad and stalls. Will only restart with the choke on and would die with It off. Limped It back to the garage and fully disassembled the carb and found some debris in the bowl but that's It. Pulled every jet and made sure they all were clear. Now I haven't driven It yet. But It still has a problem that It had before I cleaned the carb. It seems to flood Itself at Idle. If I go to Idle for 5 seconds and then go to full throttle It chugs going to full throttle and while It's working It's way up to full throttle, It's blowing black smoke out the exhaust.

Will need the model and spec numbers from the engine since there are several variations of engines and carbs depending on use. Did you install a repair kit when you had the carb off or just reuse the old parts.

ILENGINE said:

Will need the model and spec numbers from the engine since there are several variations of engines and carbs depending on use. Did you install a repair kit when you had the carb off or just reuse the old parts.

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Tractor is 917.275284 Engine Is cv740-0018 I reused all the parts. I finnaly cut with it today and It didn't like my back yard as It was constantly losing power and surging like it wanted to die. When I got to the front yard it did really good with zero problems. I did clean and flush the tank out. Also seems to be getting too much fuel at full throttle. But the carb cleaning seemed to help because it didn't stall one time while I was cutting.

Here is a classic example for the reason people go on E-bay and amazon and buy carbs. Through Kohler the carb for this engine $569.88 on Ebay it is $24.60. Is this raping the customer or what. I know these carbs don't always preform like they should but it is a 50/50 chance it will work. You could buy some where around 23 of the knock offs for what it would cost for one OEM carb.

hlw49 said:

Here is a classic example for the reason people go on E-bay and amazon and buy carbs. Through Kohler the carb for this engine $569.88 on Ebay it is $24.60. Is this raping the customer or what. I know these carbs don't always preform like they should but it is a 50/50 chance it will work. You could buy some where around 23 of the knock offs for what it would cost for one OEM carb.

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Yeah I found the correct car in Amazon and it will be at my house the next day for about $35 bucks. But I was trying to save the oem carb. I'm just tired of messing with it and it still doesn't run right. So I'll just order a new aftermarket one and see what it does.

If the $36 Amazon carb doesn't work, you could cannibalize it for parts for the OEM carb. Command Pros are great engines, but they have the reputation of developing fuel leaks in the carbs.

If you think the $ 24.60 ebay carb and the OEM carb are identical then I have a great big statue in the Harbour I will sell you cheap .

bertsmobile1 said:

If you think the $ 24.60 ebay carb and the OEM carb are identical then I have a great big statue in the Harbour I will sell you cheap .

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Yes OEM carburetors are better and the way to go. That said, is the OEM carburetor worth 16 times more? Two or three times more for OEM vs aftermarket is not unusual, but 16 times more! Ridiculous.

Tiger Small Engine said:

Yes OEM carburetors are better and the way to go. That said, is the OEM carburetor worth 16 times more? Two or three times more for OEM vs aftermarket is not unusual, but 16 times more! Ridiculous.

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That depends if taking into account of the fuel inlet failing out while connecting the fuel hose, or the fuel solenoid sticking shut due to the plunger corroding 2 weeks after installation of new carb

What I've learned when buying from evilbay or scamazon, don't buy the cheapest carb offered. Definitely get the one that says so many sold. And priced say 10 bucks more than the cheapest. A Rotary or Oregon even better of course.

Buying the cheapest, I've had to go through them looking for poor machining, emulsion tubes not drilled like OEM and floats/needle/seats not working. Always check float height. Most of the time I've had good luck with them. Can you get a bad one, sure. Can you fix it, sure.