Recent content by Stryped

Makes sense. But what if you took equal number of “strokes” on sandpaper on both halves of the rod?

Mine did not have instructions. It’s from harbor freight but don’t yell at me……

How can I insure I am reading it right and it is accurate?

Why did I come up with .9996??

Standard- 0 to 1 inch

Trying to teach myself to read and calibrate a micrometer. Can anyone tell me this reading?

What do you mean pinch the journal?

I have no clue who to contact at Briggs. I have heard a rule of thumb is .001 times the crank normal diameter but have no clue if that is right.

No it’s to my John Deere zero turn

The client crank cleaned up with muriatic acid and I polished it to a shiny finish the governor gear never exploded and is intact I am not sure what else to check on that.

I have a 27 hp Briggs v twin with aluminum rods. I broke a rod so I am rebuilding it. It goes to my lawn mower. Can you tell me what to look for in terms of clearance between my rod and crank journal? If the clearance is too much, can I mill the rod halves to make the large rod journal smaller...

This is what I was talking about

Not outside the pan

Broken rod. Is that open area below the stub the pto shaft goes through look right?

I have tried to post images but it always says they are too big. I only am able to use my phone I do not have anything else

Anybody? I am talking about what looks like a hole…..

Does this look right? https://postimg.cc/gallery/1ngCVnv This is a 4409 77 0113 G5.

This started with me repairing a sump pan gasket oil leak. This was my dads lawnmower before and he gave it to me. He had the sump gasket repaired at dealer. Two years later it leaked again so he gave to me and he bought a new mower. anyway, I bought a sump gasket kit that came with a pto seal...

All I am saying is I have had trouble with seals in cheaper kits. I wonder if it is really needed to replace.

I am rebuilding a Briggs v twin 27 hp 49 series after the rod broke. Buying a gasket kit on Amazon. The kit comes with new valve seals but should I use them? The engine did not smoke when it broke the rod. I am a little afraid of replacing my valve seal with a made in china seal if that makes...

There were six marks on the bolts so I assumed grade 8….

I thought some type of lock tight was supposed to be used?

Did the torque spec change? What was it?

This is the problem this engine had. The factory sump bolts are fully threaded. Did you use partially threaded bolts from the farm store?

It’s a used rod I am using

I am rebuilding a 49 series v twin 27hp that broke a rod. Can the head bolts and rod bolts be reused? Or are they torque to yield? Can regular grade 8 bolts be used instead?