Recent content by slomo

Most people don't even check oil level. Lose one line and she is done. All the vibes bouncing around the yard. On a speedy 0 turn...... I sleep better with no oil filter at all.

How old? Ever clean the cooling fins? Ever check valves? Do you check the oil on a flat surface prior to every mow? Do you use multi grade oil? If so stop it unless your manual says otherwise. SAE 30w is your friend. I suggest ordering new Briggs parts and put her back together. Think the days...

Cams in these mower engines are so small, think you are barking up the wrong tree. These are low rev Diesel like engines. Put the valves in factory spec and look elsewhere for your slow revs. As in 97% of all complaints are dirty carbs and or neglected fuel systems. To more directly answer...

So what other mower forums better this one? Love to hear this.

There are 2 TDC strokes on a 4 smoke engine. Easier valve check is one valve pushed open out of the head, adjust OPPOSITE valve. Do this for all other valves.

Did this get fixed and slaying some grass? OP ghosted us.

I take some 150 grit on the garage door window. Let the PAPER DO ALL THE WORK. Lap the head and block where the gaskets sits. You will quickly see your head, like every one I've done is warped. Little 400 grit to polish her off. Rotate the head while lapping. Use your OPEN FINGERS while making...

No, time to test what you have.

Flush fuel tank. Tank needs to be SPOTLESS like a new one. Gas cap needs some form of seal to keep grit out. All new fuel lines and filter. Entire fuel system needs either replaced or cleaned. Tank vent needs inspected. Pull hose AT carb. Should be solid stream of gas. No good stream, find out...

What about how it was stored over winter? Parked in a wide open field or cozy garage? Sitting pretty with Turtle Wax on the deck. Most say pour oil in the cyl bore over winter.

A-Maz-Zin'. Glad she is running again.

My drool Snapper is one I have two of. The Commercial with the Kawi FJ180V engine. King of ALL push mowers, end of message. Other great engines as Snapper always put on top of the line engines back in the day. I have a Commercial with the Commercial Honda GXV160. Great mower, engine lacks...

(y) Just as in wood is slightly abrasive especially when wet slash swollen.

You need to verify you have solid spark all the time you are holding the deadman lever to the bar. With a good coil, should of ran perfect IF it was a spark issue. You could have a partial failure in your ignition coil? Never seen one but it is an electrical part. Coil gets hot and starts...

Air, fuel, spark at the right time and compression. You lack fuel sounds like. Clean the tank like a new one. Most likely carb is dirty inside.

Right on right on......... All listed in everyone's engine manual as maintenance items. Clean the cooling fins while you are there. Valve adjustments...... Turtle Wax on the deck.

New doesn't mean new these days. Throwing money at it can be futile as you are seeing. All these parts will need tested. Is the new carb OEM Briggs or was this some Scamazon purchase? Was the wrong part ordered by accident? Oh okay, pulsa jet. Tiger Small Engine nailed it. Tank must be...

Um, missing a step. Need to lap the head and block area where the head gasket sits. 3 step bolt torque is kindly advised. Every head I've pulled after checking were never flat. Intek engine owners pay attention here. Those love to toss head gaskets.

So what do you think the engine is lacking? She is thirsty. I would flush/wash/clean/shake the gas tank out. Blow out both ways with compressed air. Tank should be like a new one. As Bert said, there is clean and there is CLEAN. Install new fuel line from tank to carb. Filter and shut off...

Okay so is it fixed? Sounds normal to me.

Pictures and videos will help us help you more.

Not needed but not critical. Remember to use some alcohol to clean that connector when you are done testing. Remove the adhesive from the tape. It will attract grit and grime. IF the coil is good, the engine will run against the flywheel brake. You will need to strap the deadman lever to the...

Unless your engine is water cooled and has full pressure lube, you don't want to idle down. It's full revs until you kill the engine on purpose. Move the cable to either lengthen or shorten it. Check the revs after you've made adjustments.

Gas cap gasket, good call MParr.

Carb float level could be set low. Restriction in fuel delivery to carb.

Look at your mower parts list.

I would download it because Briggs and their links disappear all the time. Old engine IPL's and such are not where they used to be. Get it while the get ins' is good.

Can't see the picture.

12 and 25 acres is a bit much for a 0. Unless you like spending your entire weekend cutting grass. Some people do.

If I recall, been a while, you load test one at 80% of rated cold cranking amp value???. Someone check me on that. So some toaster type might not fully load her down.

All batteries and all electrical circuits, must be, LOAD TESTED. Under cranking, assuming all else is good, if your battery drops below 10.5 volts DC, you have a bad battery. Take it to an auto parts store. They will check for free as ILENGINE said. Your charger doesn't test anything under...

You have a high tension lead which is the plug wire and a small gauge black wire (kill wire) that connects to the ignition coil. If the kill wire ever grounds out the coil, you have no spark. Also remove the coil. Polish the mounting pads where the coil sits and the area on the coil where it...

Snip off after fire solenoid plunger inside the carb. Reinstall solenoid. Pull coil kill wire off for testing. Should run fuel tank dry if coil is good. Engage the choke when engine starts loosing power. See if she smooths out. Get a cheap hot plate from a yard sale. Remove all rubber and...

Pull the kill wire off the coil. Should run the tank dry if the ignition coil is good.

You should be able to push the valve open with your fingers or say a broom stick. Those springs are not very stiff.

Nice catch for OHV engines. Had L-head on the brain.

Try a non resistor plug. My guess is a super high resistance plug taxing the snot out of the coil making it draw max current, getting hot and or shorting some windings???? Test the plug resistance for grins.

I've seen this a few times. Not common for sure. Weak coils and high resistance plugs. Always run non resistor plugs for the win. Again this is another scenario that you must load test electrical circuits. Cool posting and thanks for the refresher.

You can take a small hammer and smack a valve open on working valves that are not stuck in the guide. Pull the rocker off first.

Valve stuck in the head?? Cooling fins plugged up?

Another satisfied customer. Great to hear you found something. And thanks for reporting back about it. You know that carb needle/seat needs pressure tested at 7psi?? Think I mentioned that. Get to work buddy LOL.

As in like a new one, clean? From the tank outlet to the carb inlet, all the way? Was this tested? Does it work and actually pump fuel? These items tested? Can this ignition system jump a 1/4" gap in free air? I'm with kbowley, carb after fire solenoid working? Will it fire with starting...

You need 4 things for that little guy to run. Air, fuel, spark at the correct time and compression. See which you are lacking.

AT the carb right?

Nice work getting her going. Sometimes you have to do this. Highly over looked. Nice catch. Can happen anytime. Install a good filter and cross your fingers. Could of pushed some trash further into the carb as you are saying while cleaning. Most 1/4 inch cheap push mower filters don't seal...

Sound has zero to do with it working. Plunger shaft could be corroded off. Solenoid still clicking away. You need to visually test this part with a 9 volt or turn the key on and off. Simple as that. No need for 4 pages of correspondence. 2 wires on most solenoids. One has 12 volts key on. 0...

Small engines are a perfect place to start a young one on. Great job!!!

Make sure you are at TDC or another place where the valves are purposely closed doing a leak down. Just saying....... Like valve adjustments checks and being on TDC. There are 2 TDC strokes in a 4 smoke engine.

Do you mean valve cover? If so the valve cover doesn't hold anything on other than itself and or maybe a gasket. You need to FLUSH, BLOW and reverse blow the tank out. If you have a 90 degree hose barb on the tank outlet, make sure you have flow there as in a good solid stream. Be looking at...

Delete that check valve you installed. No need for one or Kawi would of installed one for you. I bet a foul fuel line or tank plugged with trash. Those 90 degree hose barbs on the tank outlet love tank trash.

No oil sprays please. Only attract dirt and grit and make it stiff again. Just some FINE grit paper and polish the choke shaft. Should rotate freely.

Now go clean you cooling fins and decarbon the cylinder/s while you are at it.

95% of the time it's fuel related. 1.Drain, flush, blow, reverse blow, and inspect any right angle fuel hose barbs for blockage. Make sure fuel tank is spotless like a new one. 2.Install all new fuel lines to the carb. 3.New fuel filter if you have room. 4.Inline fuel shutoff valve install...

Do you mean the crank seal?

Really guy, you need more knowledge before trying to work on this. If you can't fix a Briggs single, you need more library time. If you think another forum is your fix, think again. Here, you have access to some of THE BEST mower repair guys on the internet. It's hard for us to help you when...

You can hide from your neighbors in this one.

Make sure the valve cover is NOT dented inwards. It can and will hold a valve or two open.

Might have residual fuel in the chamber lighting off. Nothing to worry about.

Hand driver is plenty tight. Make sure the rocker stud is tight and thread locked in. You don't need NASCAR torque on any of these tiny bolts/nuts.

Plug gap looks too tight. Open her up to your engine spec from your engine manual. Most are 30 thou. Check you manual out. Get rid of that Champion plug while you are at it. Valves look okay. Can you spin a valve with your thumb, valves closed? If so the valves need lapped and are not sealing...

You can duplicate it with any mower. Pushers are easy. Let go of the deadman lever and listen to the engine slowly wind down. This kills the ignition. Hold the lever in just a touch from not touching. This keep the flywheel brake away from flywheel. Flywheel will slowly wind down from engine...

Trash in the fuel tank. Flush, shake and blow the tank out. If yours has a 90 degree hose barb on it, make sure that is clear.