Recent content by slomo

So blades OFF, how did the belt get smoked? What did I miss? Give it more slack at the cable adjuster.

Oh no no no guy. People don't use manuals any more. Just like road maps. Things of the past. LOL

Not much thinking going on anymore. Just jump on some forum and ask for help. Back on social media for sure. Might of missed some life wasting viral video. Oh look at this viral video on my massive IMAX 4" screen. LOL

Fix the choke. Dump and flush the tank/s out. Blow out with compressed air and SAFETY GLASSES. New fuel lines from tank to carb. No you haven't because rust has zero to do with magnetism and firing a plug. Load test the coil/s. Not some cheap Christmas light that doesn't load the circuit.

Have you pulled the oil dip stick and SMELLED for fuel?

Is there an idler adjustment that tensions the belt or a cable one? Should be a cable at least. Why not adjust that? Give the belt more slack. Might remove the pulley nut that most likely way over torqued. Retorque at factory specs. Little anti-seize would be nice.

Extra blades, hi lift kits like Snapper's use and such create more of a blade load and drink more fuel. Did your mower have that mulching accessory when you bought your mower? Same year? Or did you find some new mulching kit and it supposedly fits your mower? Without knowing, I would guess...

I have one or two that do.

There's several tips in your mower manual. Like this one below. https://manuals.toro.com/128680/index.html?rnd=0.5864046057405184#0a8a0f27-104e-40fb-80a1-bf52dc2aabc2 Brush or blow out debris from the inside of the shield and around all the parts. Hold a 0.25 mm (0.010 inch) feeler gauge, a...

Please do. Not many come back and say hey THANKS guys. I fixed it with xxxxxxx xxxxxxx. Will help others if you report a good fix action.

Torque spec is only like 120 to 140 inch lbs. They don't need hardened studs and parallel ground flat washers LOL. This ain't the space shuttle either (Taryl).

Was personally stunned someone removed the shroud and cleaned some cooling fins. Not many out there. Nice job!!

What?

Just to be clear, you needed a gunsmith like flat blade driver. Nice precision hollow ground tip that FITS the slot perfectly. You were trying to remove a soft brass jet with a steel bit that was not the proper size. Right tool for the job.

You missed a step as others are hitting on. Like full throttle setting and making the carb linkage do the same. Verify rpms with tach once completed and while adjusting. Read line by line.

Agreed. And the silly-cone glues the cover TO the block making it a bear to remove. You will bend up the valve cover nicely going after some lazy fool that used silly-cone. I've seen several Honda pushers that were glued on (silicone). They would not budge at all. Couldn't get a putty knife...

Yes. Dump and flush out your tanks. Install new fuel line from tanks to carb. New filter and shutoff would be nice. Verify good flow AT carb into a glass jar or 5 gal bucket. Or fix up an IV bag or alternate fuel tank and see how she runs. On a 15 year old mower, I would replace and TEST all...

Does it not have a carb solenoid hanging off the bottom of the carb bowl? Couple wires going to it?

NEVER tip it like that while running. Oil starvation for one. You have a fuel system blockage. Dump and flush the tank out. Install new fuel line from tank to carb. Set carb float level.

If I see a zerk fitting it's getting some grease. Right or wrong t'was put on there for a reason.

If you flush enough grease into said parts then you are also pushing out the sand and grit the grease attracts.

Or that it's time for me to eat breakfast. And yes today, the Snapper brand is dead. The older machines are still something to look at. If you can't fix a push mower then you sure as heck don't need a 0-turn.

Clue number 1. Saying that makes the battery sound old and might need replaced. Yup time for a new one. You are lucky it lasted that long. Most people leave them outside in the frozen tundra winter with no charger blah blah. This comment makes me nervous. I'm not a fan of these internal...

Download your mower manual. Has other tips as well.

Where was this?

Clean as in looking like a new one inside? Output port nipple where the hose connects is wide open? Next would be all new fuel line install from tank to carb. New filter and shut off valve wouldn't hurt. Fuel line deteriorates on the inside which leads to plugged up carbs. After that a good...

Only 1/3 acre. No need for a 0-turn. To help decide the brand, go on here and look at the Snapper section. It's dead for the most part. Tells you these are great machines and tend not to break. Go on here at look at all the posts on Cub Cadet, Honda and Husky to name three. Honda makes mowers...

Another spark plug mercy change out. Who out there is teaching people if your mower is dead replace spark plugs? LOL Very low number of real plugs needing replaced. Many more probably need cleaned. I would go with grass and bugs in the fuel tank. Work on flushing out the tank then blowing out...

You need to re-read all the advice given here. You are not following any of it. Quick to bash brands and buy another mower that will give you the same fits. All this over simple mower maintenance. If you can't handle the yearly fun then hire a lawn crew.

Of course. My bad, forgot this was a 2 smoke carb. Deleted my poor info.

Can't win them all.......

You know this new world economy has copied the diamond industry right? They only allow X ammount of diamonds on the market at one time. Jacking the price up for you and me. Not hiring back employees and ships not being offloaded, COVID. It was all a master plan to drop this on all of US who are...

Hate to burst your bubble but long wait times, especially now in peak mowing season is the norm. You think Deere is any better? Good luck. $$$$$ Just another reason to own a second or 5 more mowers. When your Ferris takes a dump you have your others to mow your Jack and the Bean Stock down with...

What does this tell you? She is thirsty...... A choke increases the fuel that enters a cylinder. Makes the air/fuel ratio richer. Cold weather or engine wants more fuel till she warms up to operating temp. So what you are telling me is: 1.you need to dump and flush your fuel tank. Blow out...

You are not thinking straight. All the conditions matter not. Find out why she is not running proper. Hour meters matter not. Year of mower nothing. Where it does it...... You need air, fuel, spark and compression. Find out which one you are lacking.

Re-read what Bert said. Here below

If your mower didn't have any issues you would be praising it every day. But come on here and whine about most of your issues being operator contributed. A mower, sitting in a heated garage, does not have any issues. UNTIL someone climbs on board and starts to mow. Yes belts are wear items...

You can make your own wiring diagram very easily. Take your eyes and fingers. Touch a wire from one end to the other. Document what you touched and connected to what. Might even learn something along the way. Like why you have an electrical issue. Then how to correct said issue.

4 year old mower cutting field grass. Any tall grass being cut? Wondering if she is over heating? Guessing a total clean is in order. Cooling fins first. Fuel tank, new fuel lines to carb and new filter.

Air filter? Fuel filter? Grass and other trash in the fuel tank? Old fuel lines de-laminating causing fuel flow issues? Water in fuel? Does this have a water separator?

Was this an OEM carb or E-pray slash Scamazon? Nope. If the screws are not making any difference then the carb is defective or has a passage or two clogged up or not drilled out when made.

There's your first clue. New doesn't mean new anymore. All new parts require testing. Confirming a bad starter/Bendix. Great practice but not directly related to your issue. Still a smart move. Every time a starter is replaced I would replace the solenoid. Not related to your issue. Bendix...

Without knowing for sure I would guess no. If the valves were out of spec, it would hard start or not start, cold or hot.

I would of drained and flushed out the fuel tank prior to installing all those untested parts. Every part you listed needs testing. Blow the fuel tank out with compressed air and SAFETY GLASSES.

Did you get this running?

Any and all new parts will require testing. New is not new any more. Where are you at on this repair?

Does Lawn Boy make any 2 smoke oil these days? What do they recommend? I think they might still have a telephone? Probably a free call. Sure enough, little giggle search. Monday - Friday 8:00 am - 5:00 pm CT Saturday & Sunday Closed USA & Canada: 1-800-526-6937 (1-800-LB MOWER)

Load test the battery. Free at any auto parts store. Check your + and - cables for cleanliness and tightness. Polish your frame ground point to bare smooth metal. Bench test the starter. Use a propane torch to heat it up next. See if she starts when heated. Replace the starter relay for...

Clean and flush the tank out. Easy right? Tank should be just as you bought it new. New fuel lines and so on.

Carb is fine.

Sounds rich. Just like the Army, if the engine needed one Kawasaki would of given you one. Either boiled off or dumped into the cylinder from tipping. I've never seen a vapor lock issue on a mower. Most of the cooling air goes around the block and carb for cooling. Not to say the carb is cold...

As Bert says there's clean then there's CLEAN.

Spark plugs hardly ever or basically never go bad. They do foul up so a cleaning would be the first step I would do. Don't buy a new plug unless yours is not sparking.

You need to install all new fuel hose from the tank to the carb. Lines deterorate from the inside same as outside. When they do that hose trash gets into the carb. Hope your filter will stop any debris from old lines.

Where's the spark plug change out dang it...... LOL I just knew it would be number 1 on your list of tricks.

Some of that trash you cleaned out of the tank is now inside the carb. Inline fuel shutoff valve is a good item to have on any and all mowers.

You know a bit of comedy was offered right? The MPG thing? Funny ha-ha........

Canola or olive is best. Corn oil if you are making pop corn.

Is yours dead already? Try e-pray and scam-a-zon.

Woot woot. This is why some of us have a garage full of old Snapper mowers. Pays to be a hoarder.

1.I would pull and clean the electrical connections. Contact cleaner and compressed air (Deoxit). 2.Inspect for EACH pin, pin fitment being tight inside the connector. Lot of people miss this step. 3.Look for burnt dark plastic connector bodies (high heat). If you see this, that...

LOL, this guys is a keeper. :D(y)(y)🍺

Probably over torqued the bolts. Most are made of cheap cast aluminum. Drop the mounting torque down using your left hand if you are right handed. Use your weak hand to tighten. And you can also open your fingers when tightening as well. Little thread locker wouldn't hurt. Easy right?

I love it when they do this. Just like Uncle Buck's Ford LTD LOL. As ILENGINE said, it's unburned fuel in the muffkin.

I would be spraying WD-40 since you power washed the sucker down. Spray all the electrical connectors. Not recommended to power wash a mower. Use a leaf blower, shop air or a cheap paint brush.

No it was clean as new with 4 fresh quarts added LOL.

Some have a tab you can bend to adjust the rpm's.

We have a 2008 F150 at work. Intake manifold leaked and sucked 2 gallons of coolant from the cooling system. Had no heat in the winter. Ford Fleet shop said we were 2 gallons low. Only holds like 2-2.5 gallons total LOL. The other day I put 4 quarts of oil in her. She would rattle on initial...

I would agree. Still should be correctable with little effort.

Some carbs won't idle down under 2k rpms. Having said that, Briggs recommends not to idle down. Lack of oil lubrication and air cooling are the symptoms of. Run her at 3200 to 3600 and call it a day.

Check the head and block gasket surface for flatness. Nearly every head I've removed for what ever reason, the sucker was warped. Same with the block. Little plate glass and some 400 grit wet/dry action. Don't just toss on a new gasket. Then wonder why they are on their fourth head gasket job....

Top off the oil to the FULL mark. Not above and not below. Read this again. Do this prior to EVERY MOW. Only takes about 4 seconds people. Not over taxing at all to the body. Walk the yard PRIOR to mowing. This will save blades and other related items if you were to hit a log chain for...

Can you place the choke on? Put a red rag near the carb opening to create a choke effect on the carb? Something to make it run richer? And if so does the engine smooth out and run proper?

What does the engine manual for your engine say about this?

Take the battery to any auto parts store. Will check for free.

Clean the block and cooling fins down to bare metal. Just as the engine was bought new. Any oil, dirt, grass and bugs will insulate that spot on the engine attenuating proper cooling.

SAE 30w is all you need. Adding solvents like nofoam or marvel wonder oil is a waste of money and not the prescribed oil weight/grade. Mainly solvents degrade the main oil down off it's viscosity value. These hot running air cooled engines don't need any help to thin their oil down.

Good to know. All in effort to get a good running carb.

So what did you find out?

I looked those up. Around 30 bucks to the house. Can get a hand or electric evac pump for the same or less. And use it on many other vehicles not just one. Also it will take for ever to drain due to the large restriction inside the valve. Hope she never opens up on you. I couldn't sleep with...

Air, fuel, spark and compression. Sounds like you have at least 2 of those. Verify good flow AT the carb. Strong blue spark when it dies. Need to load test the ignition coil/s.

Look how thick that rear fender is. Bet she still runs even with no air filter.

Trash in the fuel tank. Flush it out then blow it out with compressed air. Verify good flow AT the carb inlet.

Flip the carb over. Pressure test the needle and seat at 7psi for an hour. WET the needle while testing with some spray oil. Carb float level should be parallel to the carb body, bowl mounting surface. Flush the fuel system. Might have trash getting into the carb causing this. Once the carb...

Having no deck I will chime in. There is a way to say bypass this reverse mow issue. Normally not talked about on here. Why, it's a safety issue. In your case do a little research with the words you just read.

Run the new line till it leaks. Make sure you have a good filter on. Goes true for any type hose. Saying that get some good hose. Not worth burning down your mower or your house if stored in the garage. And yes it happens......

Sounds like maybe one cylinder is getting killing and the other running. Verify this and which cyl it is if this is the case.

I would safety wire it on.

1. 2.Make sure you don't have a bad plug boot slash connector. I have one right now on a push mower, if you hit a bush the spark quits till you get off said bush.

Verify strong blue spark when they die on you. Those crappy inline Christmas lights can help you. Coils need to be load tested as well. Pull the kill wire off the coil. Should drain the fuel tank before they die.

Just wished all mowers had some kind of filter to slow down carb issues. Our s_ _t fuel is bad enough.....

One can wreck a mower in 2 seconds. Hour meters are a waste of money YOU paid for. Doesn't help one bit in getting the grass cut. Change the oil and clean the cooling fins yearly. Doesn't get any easier. We get people on here that don't walk the yard like old timers did and wonder why their...

Remove the belt. Spin everything with your hand that the belt drove. If you hear a faint or obvious growling sound, replacement time.

Yup, your springs are messed up. Should be able to fine small springs and make the linkage work. Clever person like yourself should be ok.

Strip the plastic and rubber parts out. Boil the carb body for an hour. Blow out with compressed air. Pull the main and pilot jets as well. Use a pH neutral dish soap. NO Dawn because she is alkaline. Just some cheap dollar store soap.

If the part is no longer made, go for it. Nothing to lose.

Wow a post from 2013 put back in action today.

For pushers it's the OLDER Snappers all the way. Still haven't seen a new mower as of this day on Earth have the same heavy duty build, reliability and simplicity as these machines. Best drive system on the market still as of today. Not even talking about the Snapper Commercials yet....... For...

Not bad for a used truck either.

Just fill it till you see the gears slinging it around as you pull up back and forth. Yup 00 grease is like pudding. Flows but not too thin enough to leak out. Now having said that in these older machines it will leak out some. It's best if you take the transmission apart and slather her down...

Just drill it out and polish her over. You have a perfect picture of what it should look like. It's not the space shuttle..........

Fellow military service member. Knew there was something I liked about you LOL.

Verify strong blue spark when the engine dies.

From what I've seen on Chinese carbs, if you go through the parts, make sure they do what they are supposed to do. And like you did substitute parts when needed. Most of the time you can get them to work if they don't work out of the box.

Gasket sealer? Valves should be checked once a year. Only takes a few minutes.

Hope you did this test at TDC right? Didn't leave a valve open?

Pull the head. Clean the head of carbon. Same for piston face and valves. Get behind the valves too. New head gasket. LAP THE HEAD AND BLOCK FACE. Check for head flatness.

Download and READ your engine manual. Make sure it's for YOUR engine. Read it again. Lots of good tips in there like cleaning the cooling fins yearly and say after 5-10 years de-carbonize the cylinder/s. Last two hardly never get done.

I would use silicone spray. Grease = disaster on a mower. Silly cone spray is very light and will dry or drip off. Silicone is also anti moisture slash water. Honda uses an inferior drive system.

Dead diaphram inside leaking oil which shouldn't be there. Also no fuel inside the filter. Fuel pump is dead. Pull the oil stick. Smell said stick for fuel. Don't wipe it off either. Get a good sniff. If you smell gas you have a carb issue. Oil level proper?

Carb bowl should have enough juice to restart. I would look at the valve lash. Check slash adjust yearly for best performance. Only takes a few minutes to adjust.

Okay you got my attention but how does, plastic, conduct??

I know the small cellulose clear jobs are okay on a push mower gravity job. Red Briggs are a joke. Think I'm going to try the phospho bronze jobs next. I've seen a couple carb bowls with a lot of trash almost like there was no filter installed. Those clear paper jobs probably from the mainland??

Look inside the next white Briggs pancake. I know the red ones are just like window screen. Are the white ones the same?

Either gravity or a pump doesn't matter. Carbs for sure. Not many EFI mowers out there. Yes there are some but not near the numbers of carbed ones.

Any good?

These are window screen media types. Might stop a number 2 pencil. Waste of money. This style you can't verify the cartridge is sealed proper or not. On the fence about these. These are supposed to be good. Never used one. What is the micron level on these? Another I haven't used. Any good???

Load test the battery first.

Have you verified this into a glass jar or 5 gallon bucket? Should drain your tank dry if the pump is good.

No it doesn't. FIlters only show there is gas inside them.

That you can see?? Or confirmed blown out and flows freely?

Fo sho

Got it. Did you know at idle, you are not getting the proper lube to the engine? AND the proper air to cool said engine? Most of these are air cooled. This is why I make such a big deal cleaning cooling fins yearly. Max revs provides proper oil and air to her.

Little 3psi reg should do the trick.

Is this a Kawasaki or what engine? Kawasaki's require you parking the oil stick ON TOP OF THE THREADS, then check level. Briggs likes to screw all the way down to check oil level. Read your stick for tips and clues.

Hope you are not idling it around the yard. Run the snot out of it. Give her max revs her entire life for max longevity and durability. I would dump the oil after every mow for 5 mows if it was mine. Get all that break-in metal out of the sump. Take your dump pan into the sun. You will see a...

Oil out top filter? Air, fuel or oil?

I don't know if these new internal resistance checkers are any good. Autozone uses them. Where's Bert when we need him LOL.

Any auto parts store should be able to test it. The best test out there is still the ol' carbon pile tester.

Think you are trying to say 20ma right? That's 20 milli-amps, 1,000 ma is = to one amp of current. No wonder mower batteries don't last for shiz nit. 16 volts is a cooker. At rest and you got that high? Heck of a surface charge. Get on youtube and look up parasitic draws. This will help you...

No surprise there. Does your dad have extension cords that are like 40 years old? Look like you just bought them? I mean coiled up so nice like you just pulled it out of the package? LOL My dad has extension cords older than I am LOL LOL. Still new looking. So back to the engine, do you check...

Doesn't scalp low enough, dumps grass and rocks at your feet and legs, revs too low, doesn't pull backwards at times, doesn't side sling like mowers did back in the 1920's (his words), and the cut quality. I was shocked to hear because these have 4 blades. Dad said it leaves grass trails while...

E-10 if left inside the carb say over winter will eat the aluminum body up. Longer it sits with water the worse this all is. E-10 is a nightmare on carbs. And a lot of carbs now are no longer made. Best to use 100% gas if at all possible. Start hoarding today.... LOL

Make sure the choke is working. Also if you are an E-10 lover, I would drain the carb bowl and tank.

Good ol' bench test. I like it.

Dad bought a brand new HRN from a mower shop. He hates it. Wants his Toro Super Recycler back. He always wanted a Honda because all the hype........ Honda mowers are not what they used to be.

Just run it till it dies like all other mowers on the planet. Then throw parts at it. If you can't afford some bearings and a belt or two, you don't need a 0-turn. Get a professional lawn crew. Probably even save you money in not buying the machine, storing the machine, spare parts, fuel and so...

So what is this post about then? Sounds like you need more juice??

Was this battery load tested?

Is this a repower or what? New in March engine I get it. Is the mower new in March too? Also sounds like you need a spare mower. Don't know how I could make it with only one mower LOL. If I get below 5 I get nervous.

This ought to alert you in on something. Might need to cut more often or sharpen slash install new blades. Post up a video of your machine cutting tall grass. Link it here so we can see and get a better picture of what you are talking about.

Turtle Super Hard Shell, several carnuaba waxes, Blue Poly back in the day, NuFinish, Maguires Ultimate wax. Best was Mothers Carnauba in the red can. I get a solid 6 months beading out of Turtle Super Hard Shell. That is as frequent as I was my cars LOL. Oil, filter and a wax job LOL. Rain or...

Very true very true. I'm not into sub par machines guy. I would get a Cub Cadet before a Dixie. And that's stooping pretty low. Are you still struggling with what a bypass filter is? Have you changed your filters out yet?

For how long? Ooops it's running out then shove the line back on or dumped out the tank completely?

At 1100 hours she is due for a carb douche.

Sounds like she wants more fuel. Clean and or replace the fuel system to the carb. Start at the tank then finish with a flow test into a glass jar AT the carb. Should dump the tank out freely. Cap vent okay?

Only thing a full filter means is that it is full. Flowing fuel is totally unknown. Old Jeep story. Had a horizontal hard line get plugged up with 40 years of dirt and a poor gas cap. My filter was full. Even would squirt out of the accelerator pump into the carb venturies. Though I had fuel...

Same with oil filters on lawn mowers. Millions out there with no filter at all. Seem to work just fine. Oh and no coolers either. Amazing how all that grass gets cut every week.

I couldn't either when I lost an $8600 engine in a Jeep like 20 years ago. An oil "mod" I couldn't live without dumped all the oil out on the highway.

If you need more revs, sounds like you need to cut more often or have a lot of rain jacking the grass up. Going any higher to 3600 will only use more fuel. You are over the torque peak anyway.

You can thank the Biden Cartel for all this. Groceries, gas, local utilities, fake covid and those dust only rated masks and don't forget that ONE cargo ship in the Suez Canal. Let me repeat myself, ONE ship that got sideways. Remember the Suez carries like 13% of the worlds cargo. And for what...

On a 5 YO trimmer, just get a carb rebuild kit or new OEM carb. The diaphram is probably "hard as a carp". Taryl

You don't want an oil cooler. Unless you are into NASCAR racing or similar and have 9,000rpm revs. You want the oil as hot as you can get it. Need to burn off moisture out of the sump and thin it for flow. Bypass jobs are lower flow and lower microns.

Great until someone kicks it and dumps all the oil out toasting your engine. The less parts an oiling system has the better. Just get a cheap powered or hand pump evac pump. Whopping 25 bucks shipped to your door.

You are probably on to something but most of this looks like typical 0-turn turf tire rutting. They are 2,000 plus pound machines compacting the snot out of the turf. Main reason I do not own a 0-turn. Well many more like impossible maintenance and so on. Don't forget the 300+lb person on board...

Flush out the fuel tank and install new filter and hose. Solid fuel flow AT carb inlet. Drain tank into a glass jar for verification. Buy a cheap hot plate electric burner and a cheap pot. Strip the carb down separating all plastic/rubber parts out. Boil the carb with pH neutral soap and water...

As Taryl says, "there's your dinner." Wish people would stop buying amazon/E-pray carbs UNLESS your OEM carb is no longer made. Some work okay I guess. It's just easier to clean the OEM carb and slay some grass.

Remove the spark plug. Pull the rope. See if fuel shoots out the plug hole. Pull the oil stick and smell for fuel. Confirm your starter rope is not hanging up.

If at all possible, gravity flow all the way. Nothing to break or wear out. Never leave you stranded. You need to check your available amps to see if your charging coil can even supply a third party pump.

Also drink more gas. Thanks to the Biden Cartel, it will cost you in fuel.

Anyone use this wonder wax of the week? I bought a bottle. Looks to be Elmers School Glue with a good smell. If you touch the panel prior to wiping, it's all sticky. Not impressed with the water beading either. They claim insane water beading hydrophobic ultra maximum extreme wonder slick...

Water in the gas?

My remote control quit working.

Check the choke.

I would install the high altitude jet if it were mine. What ever idiot said not too hasn't ran or jogged at high altitudes much. Your air is thin. I even install HA jets at 1100 feet here. Some carbs run rich.

How about the carb needle and seat?

Some thinks it is. LOL

I would correct this first. After corrected dump the oil and filter a couple times. Also you must park the oil dip stick on TOP OF THE THREADS when checking the level. Do NOT screw all the way down into the tube like on a Briggs for example.

Think they were made for Lesco by another stellar mower maker, forgot who. They are good machines still to this day. Heavy build like OP said.

If new carb has a choke then hook up a choke cable. Go slay some grass.

You answered your own question. Your voltage checks look good but actually you are NOT cranking the engine over due to the Bendix not engaging. So you need to fix the Bendix/starter issue first before you do more electrical CSI checks.

Yes it's fine.

No such thing as normal drop levels. You do not want your battery voltage to go below 10.5v DC while cranking the engine. Example, if while cranking your battery drops to 8 volts then you need a charge or a new battery.

Yes you are. You can only test circuits under LOAD. 1 Ohm means the pipe is open. Under full load is the real test. Means the pipe can flow at max amp draw like normal circuits run at.

Don't know what you are trying to ooze out of this convo but the question has been answered already.

If this is your first time with POR, good luck. It's like breaking out the grease gun to lube up U-joints on an old car. You will have grease all over you LOL. Looking forward to seeing it once she is done.

Looking for a deal, at an auction. Let that sink in. If the mower was in top shape, probably not be at an auction or flea market. I know money is tight in this Biden Cartel era. Should of drove it like you stole it making sure it all worked first. Hope you get her working.

Didn't you just answer your own question? Say it again out loud. 20x8x8 = 20x8x8 right?

For sure. I'm ordering all new bolts for all my mowers for every day of the week. Might get a snip of contamination on them while mowing. :rolleyes: I agree, don't have me working on your mowers. No argument there.

Bought 3 cherry push mowers from this very thing. Mower doesn't cut well....... One was a virgin Commercial Snapper pusher looked brand new. Blade on upside down LOL. Paid a whopping 80 bucks for that machine. Big Kawasaki FJ180V engine too. Swear it had break in oil inside her.

On what stroke?

Choke linkage for $500?

On 4 strokes as Rivets is getting at, there are 2 TDC strokes you can pick from.

Could be several things. Dead idlers, bearings, pulleys, PTO took a dump or an electrical issue feeding the PTO. Can you rotate the blades with your hand, engine OFF? Any strange noises? Is there a mountain of grass and sticks on top of the deck or under a belt cover? Log chains, small cars...

There are 2 TDC strokes in a 4 stroke engine. Which one did you use? Sounds like the ACR is not working. Temp gap the valves to 0.002" and see if the ACR works again. Did you hand rotate the engine while checking the valves verifying your gap was proper? Decarbonize the cylinder. It's in...

What about any dirt, rust or any other contaminant on the threads? You must have a huge bucket of perfectly good bolts you toss out LOL.

I was talking in general terms on how those systems work. Some have an air vane. Some a heated thermostatic exhaust lever.

Bought several perfect mowers like this. Raise the deck up. Look at the blade. Another look at the blade. Nother look. WTF, blade is on upside down. Classic.......

Does get frustrating at times. Or when the OP says they've already done some testing trick, come to find out they really haven't. When the pictures get posted the truth comes out.

Without touching the mower, choke should be ON. You should see the choke plate in the closed position. When you pull the rope, engine will/should fire, slowly/quickly increasing revs. These increased revs create more air from the cooling fan on top of the flywheel. More air from the fan...

I don't have any lawn boys. Just my Maruyama trimmer and backpack blower that are 2 smokers. Call the OPTI guys and ask your questions. They have a toll free number. Remember today's oils are WAAAAAY better than when your mower came out. Don't need all that oil from days gone past anymore.

It's not the space shuttle guys (Taryl). Little 220, 400 and 800 grit paper and a piece of plate glass for the block. Also use the side garage door window to lap the head. Cheap sanding block, what ever........ Get her done.

These only have like 10-20ft lbs depending on engine.

The reason they say this and I am an owner of that product, is their 2-smoke oil is massively thick compared to other 2 smoke oils. I myself struggled with how little oil they want you to use. Then I thought about it. Shook the oil a bit. Poured it to use and noticed the syrup like consistency...

See, myself, I don't like anything that you encapsulate over rust. I prefer to scuff the part, convert the rust, prime and paint. Too much effort though for most people. Looks like a cool project.

Sounds normal to me.