XT2 Engine Pulley Removal

Hammermechanicman said:
I have done a bunch of these types by MTD. Do yourself a favor and unbolt the engine. If you heat it enough to get it off you will probably damage the lower seal. The hacks will bend the 3 belt guides but that just proves they are hacks. The pulley is paper thin so any prying ruins them. MTD uses that same crap pulley and stamped guides on lots of different makes and models. If you have already buggered the pulley be prepared to remove the engine to get it off. I did one last year where the pulley was worn out and needed changed. Wound up removing the engine and drilling a series of holes in a line and the splitting it off with a chisel along the holes. Broke a thread rod on a bearing separator trying to get it off.
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Our record was 13 hours getting one off - a double stack with manual pto. when we get a drive belt replacement requesting a quote I exclude the pulley removal.
 
Get the sawsall. Cut through to the main shaft; go 180 degrees and cut again. seperate from the shaft, clean shaft, apply new pully using anti-seize. Heating will damage the shaft seal.
This is easier than pulling the engine or replacing the shaft seal.
 
I don't a lot of time on removing stuck on pulley. Just go ahead and destroy them if necessary and replace them. The costs involved is not worth it to save every one.

Penetrating are fine if they actually can get in there and loosen things but most just don't work as advertise. If I ever find one that works I will stick with it.
 
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Hammermechanicman said:
Next time i have one of those MTD pulleys that has never been off for 15 years i will have one of the folks on here just pop it off for me. LOL
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If the pulley is still serviceable, do yourself a favor and just unbolt the engine and lift it a bit to thread on the new belt. This can be done much quicker than trying to remove the pulley. My pulley got bent trying to take it off with a 3 jaw puller so it had to be removed. If I would have taken a few extra minutes searching for solutions before mucking with it, it would have saved a lot of aggravation and the $45 cost of a new pulley. Don't be like me, ha ha!
 
CubbyCommando said:
If the pulley is still serviceable, do yourself a favor and just unbolt the engine and lift it a bit to thread on the new belt. This can be done much quicker than trying to remove the pulley. My pulley got bent trying to take it off with a 3 jaw puller so it had to be removed. If I would have taken a few extra minutes searching for solutions before mucking with it, it would have saved a lot of aggravation and the $45 cost of a new pulley. Don't be like me, ha ha!
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I take you have learned your lesson...:p

Hindsight is usually 20/20. Just wish we don't have learn that way sometimes. It is always better to ask even you think the question stupid as personally I rather look stupid than being stupid. persay. And believe me I have ask some pretty dumb sounding questions but I truly didn't know answer and it has kept me out trouble multiple times.
 
CubbyCommando said:
If the pulley is still serviceable, do yourself a favor and just unbolt the engine and lift it a bit to thread on the new belt. This can be done much quicker than trying to remove the pulley. My pulley got bent trying to take it off with a 3 jaw puller so it had to be removed. If I would have taken a few extra minutes searching for solutions before mucking with it, it would have saved a lot of aggravation and the $45 cost of a new pulley. Don't be like me, ha ha!
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See post #8
 
One more thing to try is after the penetrating oil, is to put the puller on the pulley with just enough pull to keep from bending the pulley. FIRST thread a bolt into the shaft, one long enough to hit bottom to protect the threads. The tap the bolt head with a hammer. The bolt will protect the shaft from damage. Do I have experience? I once pulled the bull sprocket from a 1942 Bucyrus-Erie drag-line. I had to borrow a heavy duty hydraulic puller from the US Army. We hid under the dragline as I pumped the puller to 5000 psi before it popped. We hid the under the dragline after reaching 1000 psi, but when it popped it was just a little dink that moved the sprocket about a quarter inch, but it was free!
 
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