24HP V-Twin B&S - Fault driving me CRAZY!

Neo7

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If it fits .......
Errr that's kinda what I'm asking ... before I buy one :laughing:
I can see I might need different mounting screws. The 4 that hold the Carb to the manifold but didn't think about the two gaskets so thanks for that :thumbsup:
 

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Yes much smoother. THAT CONFIRMS FUELING ISSUES..

Sorry I neglected to check the plug colors but Cylinder 2 was still running hotter .... Single barrel Carb is back in my John Deere now so can't check this now.

Can you please explain why the hot cylinder is the one that's working properly? THAT'S THE SIDE THAT'S APPARENTLY GETTING FUEL AND WORKING. NO FUEL (OR LITTLE-FROM THE CARB OR CRACKED MANIFOLD) MEANS NO FIRE(POWER) FROM THE OTHER CYLINDER (IT'S RUNNING COLDER AS THERE'S NOT FULL POWER BEING DEVELOPED)

Yes I've tried spraying the plastic manifold a few times now... But it's never shown anything.


So we have one vote for Single Carb and one vote for staying with the Dual Carb.
IMO, YOU CAN GET BY WITH THE SINGLE BARREL. KEEPING WITH THE DUAL WILL ALLOW MORE AIR FLOW, MORE EFFICIENCY, MORE POWER



Has anyone swapped out a plastic twin barrel manifold for an aluminum twin barrel manifold?... are any modifications required?

Can't answer that but if you stick with the two barrel carb (properly fixed or replaced) and your plastic manifold is fine, it's probably moot.

IMO, it you can replace the plastic with aluminum, I WOULD change it, much more durable.

Lastly, inspect that plastic manifold with a magnifying glass just to confirm no hair line cracks elsewhere in the manifold. I suspect that one side of the carb(coldish cylinder), is still clogged, running lean (resulting in running rough, "popping"-possibly a "lean sneeze" condition..

**You want to check the plugs with the "old set up" on the engine and not just idling, but full power. You can re-mount the engine in the frame now that the issue is about narrowed down...
 

Neo7

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IMO, it you can replace the plastic with aluminum, I WOULD change it, much more durable.
Lastly, inspect that plastic manifold with a magnifying glass just to confirm no hairline cracks elsewhere in the manifold.
**You want to check the plugs with the "old set up" on the engine and not just idling, but full power. You can re-mount the engine in the frame now that the issue is about narrowed down...
Yep good points. I'll go ahead and order an Ali manifold and fit the engine to the mower while waiting for the parts to arrive.
I did check the Plugs at full power previously. And they are still white'ish... a bit whiter on the hotter Cylinder 2

I suspect that one side of the carb(coldish cylinder), is still clogged, running lean (resulting in running rough, "popping"-possibly a "lean sneeze" condition.
But how can this be when I've cleaned and skimmed the heads, lapped in all valves, new valve seals and new gaskets? ... Compression is high and the same in both cylinders?
 

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As you've seen with swapping the carb /intake manifold, the engine runs better. It's NOW getting the correct air/fuel mixture

Sitting there idling on a stand is NOT the same as full throttle(obviously). If the carbs clogged/cracked/broke, if it's not providing enough fuel for the conditions it'll act up...

The original either carb or manifold was / is leaning out the one cylinder, MORE SO WHEN at FULL THROTTLE..

Gotta have compression, fuel and spark.

You have all BUT the correct mix of fuel=issues
 

Neo7

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Yes but the carb can't be clogged/cracked/broke because it's brand new so apart from the manifold what else could this be? :confused2:
 

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Yes but the carb can't be clogged/cracked/broke because it's brand new so apart from the manifold what else could this be? :confused2:

If the carb is brand new (and works properly), then your issue is likely in the manifold.

You put another carb/manifold on and it ran good.


The fuel /intake system IS THE ISSUE.. Simple as that
 
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Yep good points. I'll go ahead and order an Ali manifold and fit the engine to the mower while waiting for the parts to arrive.
I did check the Plugs at full power previously. And they are still white'ish... a bit whiter on the hotter Cylinder 2


But how can this be when I've cleaned and skimmed the heads, lapped in all valves, new valve seals and new gaskets? ... Compression is high and the same in both cylinders?

Neo ......... Go look at post 133 and look above this quote above this typing... Scott mean't the carb was probably still clogged not the cylinder.....

Scott doesn't know you have a brand new carb......I think you do anyway ..... Hope it wasn't a cheapo e bay carb....

I have not put an aluminum manifold in place of plastic... Just make sure it will take the 2 BBL carb....
 

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Correct ^^. I did not re-read 14 pages of this thread.



If the other single barrel carb and intake solves the problem, the issue HAS TO BE the intake or carb..
 
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Correct ^^. I did not re-read 14 pages of this thread.



If the other single barrel carb and intake solves the problem, the issue HAS TO BE the intake or carb..

Intake ............... I forgot how many times I said it was the intake in the duration of this thread......

I did say something else also.... But my main thing was the fuel system.....
 

BlazNT

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Intake ............... I forgot how many times I said it was the intake in the duration of this thread......

I did say something else also.... But my main thing was the fuel system.....

You said it 7 times. I looked it up for you.:laughing::laughing::laughing:
 
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