I looked over the entire wiring harness and couldn't find an in-line fuse. No corrosion either. I checked all the switches (Ignition, PTO, Seat, Brake, and the RH and LH Neutral switches (Zero Turn Steering) and all are working okay. The only wires I couldn't check were under the engine housing. I traced both wires from end to end. There was a .1 M-Amp reading on the hour meter but I don't know what that means. The meter isn't on but maybe the clutch/engine needs to be on. I will check power on the carb solenoid and clutch tomorrow. It has to be something but I am befuddled (spellcheck says that is a word). I appreciate any suggestions.
Some times they use fusable links,Look for a thicker section in a wire, usually with a distinct layer of insulation, they are more or less a diode(power one way only),they do burn out when polarity is acidently reversed
See if these 2 happen to share the same ground and/or power before or after the clutch switch.
Test these wires at each end for continuity, test the ground for continuity to the frame and battery.
Follow the power from both solenoid and clutch to its origin,if it terminates at the ignition switch continuity test the switch, also test the the switches.
A wire might appear good from the out side but the core could be broken inside, check the wires for flexibility, any soft spot is suspect,..these places are often found at flex point in the harness between the engine and frame(vibration is often a culprit. connectors could have corrosion in the pins or the terminals, pull them apart and look.
Fuses could be good but have corrosion between the contact points,..it does not take much to cut power or reduce the voltage to components,...same for grounds.
For eliminating problems or rule a neutral switch in or out you can jump them,..just make sure the tranny is in neutral.
Power the clutch and carb solenoid individually with a jumper wire straight from the battery, listen if they klick, check the clutch if it engages., if not then one or both could be defective