ZT48 XL Single click when starting

RevB

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Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Pretty nice parts cannon ya got there.
 

Johner

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Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Is the starter a perfect match? If it does not start with a jumper batt. the Bendix might not be lining up with fly wheel. If not the case most likely the Batt. or starter. Loose connection, ?
 

mechanic mark

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Pretty nice parts cannon ya got there.
I agree with ILENGINE, remove battery, take to auto parts store & kindly ask them to load test battery, let us know how it goes, thanks, Mark
 

spetrilli

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Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
What about the switch which engages the blades. Most riding mowers will not allow you to start the engine if the blades are engaged or it thinks the blades are engaged. Same goes for the switch which engages the wheel drive. If it thinks you have the handles positioned to the drive position it will be an no start condition. Another switch to test is an oil level or pressure switch.
 

Gord Baker

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Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
If you have removed and cleaned the Negative cable where it attaches to the Frame and the other Battery cable ends, try to find a multi terminal connector near the Ignition switch. Open it and look for crusty greens and spray it with Electrical connector fluid. Carefully put it back together tightly. You have an open or dirty circuit somewhere and likely did not need a new Starter etc. This cures my X320 JD when it won't crank. Remove Spark plugs and try it.
 

Tucson47

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Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
You wouldn't have your blade engagement knob pulled up would you? You would not be the first!
 

spetrilli

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Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
What about the switch which engages the blades. Most riding mowers will not allow you to start the engine if the blades are engaged or it thinks the blades are engaged. Same goes for the switch which engages the wheel drive. If it thinks you have the handles positioned to the drive position it will be an no start condition. Another switch to test is an oil level or pressure switch.
 

firedog116

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Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Did you screwdriver test across solenoid terminals ?
 

jes_in_sac

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1. Buy a meter, which will be cheaper than replacing parts without knowing what's bad 2. Put the neg meter probe, starting first test under load on the battery negative [with + probe on the battery +], and then test at the starter ground to ensure that you have a good ground for the starter. 3. While trying to start [under load], go down the line with the + meter probe, keeping the - probe on the starter ground... starting with the battery post, then the battery connector, down the line to everything in the start current path, ending up at the starter. 4. The point you see the voltage drop substantially when under load will identify where the problem is
Electrical Troubleshooting 101
 
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