Export thread

ZT48 XL Single click when starting

#1

J

Jakeman

Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.


#2

G

Gym123

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
TEST, don't just replace. If you don't have a test light with incandescent bulb, buy one. It shows more or less current by illuminating brightly, or more dim. You should be able to jump from the battery to the starter, as a test- make sure to disconnect everything from the starter and use jumper cables- starters use a lot of current and skinny wires will become too hot to handle- could burn the insulation, too.

Find a schematic, too- then, trace the path from battery to switch, switch to solenoid, etc with the test light.


#3

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
12+ volts at the battery doesn't mean anything. Need to have it actually load tested. You can have 12 volts at rest and drop to 0 under a load.


#4

S

slomo

Going with "what is a bad battery for 200 Alex".

All circuits must be load tested as ILENGINE said. As in fully loaded with amps while testing.

Don't forget to check all the grounds too. They need some love. Most over looked item on a battery is the - post.


#5

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

slomo said:
Going with "what is a bad battery for 200 Alex".

All circuits must be load tested as ILENGINE said. As in fully loaded with amps while testing.

Don't forget to check all the grounds too. They need some love. Most over looked item on a battery is the - post.
Click to expand...
With electrical issues, the first place to check is the battery. Make sure the battery is charged and load tested. Make sure terminals are clean and tight. After battery checks out, keep testing. In this case, before replacing the wiring harness, take it to a shop to get it repaired.


#6

G

Gym123

ILENGINE said:
12+ volts at the battery doesn't mean anything. Need to have it actually load tested. You can have 12 volts at rest and drop to 0 under a load.
Click to expand...
Absolutely true- I got into my pickup one morning and as usual, the dome light came on but when I turned the key, EVERYTHING went dark. I grabbed a wrench, to check/tighten the cable ends and the positive lug came right out of the battery.


#7

C

common sence

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
Just for fun. Take spark plug out and see if gas shoots out of spark plug hole when you turn it over.


#8

G

Gym123

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
Was this submerged? If not, why would you make the leap to replacing the wiring? And what kinds of terminals & connectors would you use that wouldn't corrode?

Have you done point to point resistance/continuity/voltage tests on all of the wires?

My riding mower's headlights didn't work when I got it, but after unplugging the wires at the front in order to remove the shroud over the engine, they started working because the contacts didn't have anything to protect the terminals- I would recommend that you check any contacts between the switch and starter or anything and clean them, then put some dielectric grease on the terminals.


#9

K

kjonxx

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
clean ground cable ends


#10

S

snailtrax

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
Read the instructions in the pdf file first. I listed one from Amazon. It is purpose built for John Deere. You can buy a 30 amp Bosch relay at the parts store and make up your own wiring for less.


Attachments
















  • New Text Document.txt
    7.8 KB · Views: 21


#11

A

aussielawny

snailtrax said:
Read the instructions in the pdf file first. I listed one from Amazon. It is purpose built for John Deere. You can buy a 30 amp Bosch relay at the parts store and make up your own wiring for less.

Click to expand...
Yes, this fixed my Grav.....start assist relay. Common problem, easy fix


#12

V

vans

FYI
I just replaced the starter on my Cub Cadet with a 60.00 Amazon starter, worked once, the day I installed it,
31 days later solenoid wouldn't engage, 1 day out of warranty😔
Not saying you cheaped out like me, but don't assume the new starter is good.


#13

G

gregjo1948

common sence said:
Just for fun. Take spark plug out and see if gas shoots out of spark plug hole when you turn it over.
Click to expand...
Why would you care if gas shot out of the plug hole? He said it just gives one click. It doesn't turn over. I think it may be a broken wire.


#14

H

hdsport

gregjo1948 said:
Why would you care if gas shot out of the plug hole? He said it just gives one click. It doesn't turn over. I think it may be a broken wire.
Click to expand...
Not really a bad suggestion.
I had a 'click' with no turnover a few years back.
Problem was that my needle valve stuck open and flooded the engine.
The cylinder was hydrolocked.
Pulled the plug, hit the key and gas shot out of the cylinder.
Changed the oil and put a manual shut-off in the fuel line and 'all is well'.
.....another lesson learned.


#15

S

sjw

Replace the battery


#16

R

Rifraph48

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
If you have not done so, you may want to clean the battery negative connection to the frame. I have seen those rusty or mostly painted so the only electrical contact is a few threads from the cable bolt.


#17

C

common sence

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
You have never said if u tried jumping it with cables to full out bad battery. Could be electrical or could be mechanical. U need to first rule out which one it is.


#18

B

Brucewayne

I might get some naysayers but the first thing I might have done is jump it from my car battery.


#19

T

Tornadoman

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
You need to test every component. Put a hot battery cable directly to the starter hot terminal momentarily and see if the starter is engaging and spinning. If you have tested the relay that would have eliminated that point of failure. Try a different battery. Batteries can show 12 volts and still not be strong enough to engage the starter. I have several old car batteries like that. I use them on my electric fence. Another possible point of failure is the terminals. They can have a good connection to the stud but be corroded on the inside where pressed onto the wire.


#20

mpqualdie

mpqualdie

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
I don't know much about the Gravely motor, but B&S is really bad about the compression release going bad, so when you try to turn it over it can't get by the compression stroke. It just clicks and sits there. Might be something to look at.


#21

R

RevB

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
Pretty nice parts cannon ya got there.


#22

J

Johner

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
Is the starter a perfect match? If it does not start with a jumper batt. the Bendix might not be lining up with fly wheel. If not the case most likely the Batt. or starter. Loose connection, ?


#23

M

mechanic mark

RevB said:
Pretty nice parts cannon ya got there.
Click to expand...
I agree with ILENGINE, remove battery, take to auto parts store & kindly ask them to load test battery, let us know how it goes, thanks, Mark


#24

S

spetrilli

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
What about the switch which engages the blades. Most riding mowers will not allow you to start the engine if the blades are engaged or it thinks the blades are engaged. Same goes for the switch which engages the wheel drive. If it thinks you have the handles positioned to the drive position it will be an no start condition. Another switch to test is an oil level or pressure switch.


#25

G

Gord Baker

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
If you have removed and cleaned the Negative cable where it attaches to the Frame and the other Battery cable ends, try to find a multi terminal connector near the Ignition switch. Open it and look for crusty greens and spray it with Electrical connector fluid. Carefully put it back together tightly. You have an open or dirty circuit somewhere and likely did not need a new Starter etc. This cures my X320 JD when it won't crank. Remove Spark plugs and try it.


#26

F

Forest#2

Read post #2 couple of times.


#27

T

Tucson47

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
You wouldn't have your blade engagement knob pulled up would you? You would not be the first!


#28

S

spetrilli

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
What about the switch which engages the blades. Most riding mowers will not allow you to start the engine if the blades are engaged or it thinks the blades are engaged. Same goes for the switch which engages the wheel drive. If it thinks you have the handles positioned to the drive position it will be an no start condition. Another switch to test is an oil level or pressure switch.


#29

F

firedog116

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
Did you screwdriver test across solenoid terminals ?


#30

jes_in_sac

jes_in_sac

1. Buy a meter, which will be cheaper than replacing parts without knowing what's bad 2. Put the neg meter probe, starting first test under load on the battery negative [with + probe on the battery +], and then test at the starter ground to ensure that you have a good ground for the starter. 3. While trying to start [under load], go down the line with the + meter probe, keeping the - probe on the starter ground... starting with the battery post, then the battery connector, down the line to everything in the start current path, ending up at the starter. 4. The point you see the voltage drop substantially when under load will identify where the problem is
Electrical Troubleshooting 101


#31

O

outdoorpowermike

Yes, test battery under load. If test low charge and retest. If still low voltage at battery replace it with correct battery. Now you still might still get a click sound but you know you have a good battery. Check for good clean grounds. If still clicks you have a broken wire harness end not making a good connection. All most all the wire ends in the plastic holders have brass ends that have a slightly bent connecting spot that makes a tight connection against the male post, this is where it has a poor connection and will always chick. Check ignition switch plug first. Look carefully at the tip of the brass ends and you might find the problem.


#32

S

SCAGCAT

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
I had that issue with ferris
Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...


#33

B

butts6954

Definitely check what everyone says, but take a close look at your ground(s). Back in the early 70's, when i was a mechanic, i ran into an electrical problem with my Moms' 1970 Chevy Malibu. Everything tested good, but the headlights would go dim whenever they wanted to! After myself, and a couple of other mechanic friends checked everything out, just out of curiosity, i unscrewed/bolted a ground wire near the battery. It looked perfectly good, but was hidden rusted underneath. I cleaned it up, put it back in, and everything came back to normal. And stayed that way


#34

B

bullet bob

Save your breath here guys, the OP hasn't replied back since he started this thread. Try & help a guy.......... :(


#35

S

SCAGCAT

Jakeman said:
Gravely ZT48 XL - only single click when starting. Replaced ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, seat switch, cleaned battery terminals, tested starter relays (they were good), battery tested showing 12+ charge. Any ideas? The only thing I can think to do now is replace wiring.
Click to expand...
I had the same problem. Solved to buying a $22 part from Amazon. I tried to attatch a screen shot of it but it did not work. I will post this and try again


#36

S

SCAGCAT

SCAGCAT said:
I had the same problem. Solved to buying a $22 part from Amazon. I tried to attatch a screen shot of it but it did not work. I will post this and try again
Click to expand...

Attachments





#37

O

outdoorpowermike

outdoorpowermike said:
Yes, test battery under load. If test low charge and retest. If still low voltage at battery replace it with correct battery. Now you still might still get a click sound but you know you have a good battery. Check for good clean grounds. If still clicks you have a broken wire harness end not making a good connection. All most all the wire ends in the plastic holders have brass ends that have a slightly bent connecting spot that makes a tight connection against the male post, this is where it has a poor connection and will always chick. Check ignition switch plug first. Look carefully at the tip of the brass ends and you might find the problem.
Click to expand...


#38

D

davis2

bullet bob said:
Save your breath here guys, the OP hasn't replied back since he started this thread. Try & help a guy.......... :(
Click to expand...
Look at all the abuse he has been given... They come for help because they aren't up on mowers and tractors. That doesn't mean they have to be belittled.
Some of them may have other skills that they could lord over us at some point. Guess I'm saying that we shouldn't be assholes unless people deserve it, not for not knowing about equipment.


#39

StarTech

StarTech

Yes a lot don't think about a person skill set. When it comes some the repairs that has to be done say lawyer would have no idea how to do them.

Personally I would have recommended the OP just take the mower to a confident repair shop. Yes I understand labor is involved but many times to problem can be simply a bad connection somewhere that make just enough contact to show voltage when not under load but drop out under load. An experienced person can troubleshoot the problem a lot quicker than someone with no experience.

I had a customer about 10 yrs ago that spent over $500 on new parts and finally gave up and brought it into my shop. It turned out to be a fifty wire terminal that had failed. Charged a half hour labor and the fifty cent part. The parts weren't brought from my shop so he was SOL getting the costs back from me.

And it is like the problem in the shop right now. Mower came in running it was supposed to be a simple engine swap with another mower and install a bigger the one the came in. Guess what the fuel solenoid is receiving it control voltage from the ECU. Probably someone in the past clip the other engine's fuel solenoid as a fix. Easy for me as I done several in last few years. But someone with no experience would be replacing the ECU. Ouch at the cost from JD.


#40

D

davis2

StarTech said:
Yes a lot don't think about a person skill set. When it comes some the repairs that has to be done say lawyer would have no idea how to do them.

Personally I would have recommended the OP just take the mower to a confident repair shop. Yes I understand labor is involved but many times to problem can be simply a bad connection somewhere that make just enough contact to show voltage when not under load but drop out under load. An experienced person can troubleshoot the problem a lot quicker than someone with no experience.

I had a customer about 10 yrs ago that spent over $500 on new parts and finally gave up and brought it into my shop. It turned out to be a fifty wire terminal that had failed. Charged a half hour labor and the fifty cent part. The parts weren't brought from my shop so he was SOL getting the costs back from me.

And it is like the problem in the shop right now. Mower came in running it was supposed to be a simple engine swap with another mower and install a bigger the one the came in. Guess what the fuel solenoid is receiving it control voltage from the ECU. Probably someone in the past clip the other engine's fuel solenoid as a fix. Easy for me as I done several in last few years. But someone with no experience would be replacing the ECU. Ouch at the cost from JD.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the intelligent techs here, don't get me wrong. But when people come for help and get piled on, it defeats the purpose of trying to help. We don't need to have an echo chamber... I'm no great mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but understand most of what is discussed. While I don't always do it the right way, I've been set straight here. A new guy may think we're assholes , and poof, the purpose of the site was just flushed... Now, I also understand the frustration of some of y'all as well. But I think we should give newbies a chance,and some help. The good people of this site are more than capable of weeding out the riff raff!


#41

A

aussielawny

SCAGCAT said:
I had the same problem. Solved to buying a $22 part from Amazon. I tried to attatch a screen shot of it but it did not work. I will post this and try again
Click to expand...
yes, l did the same after lots of time wasted....instant fix. lts not uncommon on Gravelys apparently. l just bought a relay and did it myself


#42

B

bullet bob

davis2 said:
Look at all the abuse he has been given... They come for help because they aren't up on mowers and tractors. That doesn't mean they have to be belittled.
Some of them may have other skills that they could lord over us at some point. Guess I'm saying that we shouldn't be assholes unless people deserve it, not for not knowing about equipment.
Click to expand...
My gosh, who abused the guy? All I saw were helpful suggestions.


#43

D

davis2

bullet bob said:
My gosh, who abused the guy? All I saw were helpful suggestions.
Click to expand...
Read all the posts. Put yourself in the shoes of a newbie...


Footer Links 1

Top