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Z225 issues

#1

David2291

David2291

I have a 2009 Z225 went to start up a week ago and nothing. Replaced battery and the solenoid and ended up shaving the fuel solenoid down so it wouldn’t be up and started up. How ever after replacing the fuel solenoid the plunger won’t move from the off position. Also when disengaging the brake the mower shuts off. With that I have tested the seat switch and has continuity when the button is depressed. I replaced the small relay that I could see and still nothing. But when I unplug the relay I can release the brake and drive but the blades won’t engage. Any help?


#2

M

mechanic mark

greenfarmparts.com

John Deere Technical Manual TM112919 - Z225 Z235 Z245 Z255 ZTrak Mowers

John Deere Technical Manual TM112919This technical service manual is 496 pages of repair information for the following John Deere ZTrak Mower models:•Z225 - serial number 100001 to 130000•Z235 - serial number 130001 and above•Z245 - serial number 100001 to 130000•Z255 - serial number 130001 and...
greenfarmparts.com greenfarmparts.com

I would order this manual for $118, most are $140 & up. All the information you need to troubleshoot & repair your mower if you are mechanically inclined. Let us know how it goes, thanks, Mark


#3

B

bertsmobile1

In act all you need to know is in there if you have never held a screwdriver in your hand.Easiest to read & understand manuals ever written & will pay for itself the first time you do not take the mower into a shop for repair.

Sounds like the fuse is blown.
A singe fuse is used on the power wire that goes to the switch.
No power means the fuel solenoid will not open.
However if you jump start and use starting fluid then the power generated by the alternator can back feed into the electrical system so the mower works fine, till you turn it off again.


#4

StarTech

StarTech

Must be nice to pay S118 for a manual when it can be gotten @ $39 for a PDF version download.


#5

David2291

David2291

bertsmobile1 said:
In act all you need to know is in there if you have never held a screwdriver in your hand.Easiest to read & understand manuals ever written & will pay for itself the first time you do not take the mower into a shop for repair.

Sounds like the fuse is blown.
A singe fuse is used on the power wire that goes to the switch.
No power means the fuel solenoid will not open.
However if you jump start and use starting fluid then the power generated by the alternator can back feed into the electrical system so the mower works fine, till you turn it off again.
Click to expand...
I checked the three fuses and all are intact. Unless there is a fusible link somewhere


#6

B

bertsmobile1

Firstly have you got the manual ?
Secondly what most people have trouble getting their heads around is with the exception of the cranking & PTO circuits, all of the rest are ground wires .
As such there is no connection between the kill functions doing funny things & the mower failing to crank
You mentioned the solenoid, did you replace it and if so did you connect the small red wire to the powered side of the solenoid and not the switched side ( we have all done it at least once ) .
Other than that it is out with the meter / test lamp and hang from the rafters trying to get to the switches .
The manual tells you how & where to test and what the results for each test should be .
BAsically the cranking circuit is a daisy chain from that power feed wire on the top of the solenoid, through the key switch , through the PTO switch , through the brake switch then down to the trigger terminal on the solenoid .
The last item, brake switch is some times hooked up to a relay switching the power and the lap bars connected to the ground on the same relay or a second relay and these feed the power to the starting solenoid trigger terminal.


#7

David2291

David2291

bertsmobile1 said:
Firstly have you got the manual ?
Secondly what most people have trouble getting their heads around is with the exception of the cranking & PTO circuits, all of the rest are ground wires .
As such there is no connection between the kill functions doing funny things & the mower failing to crank
You mentioned the solenoid, did you replace it and if so did you connect the small red wire to the powered side of the solenoid and not the switched side ( we have all done it at least once ) .
Other than that it is out with the meter / test lamp and hang from the rafters trying to get to the switches .
The manual tells you how & where to test and what the results for each test should be .
BAsically the cranking circuit is a daisy chain from that power feed wire on the top of the solenoid, through the key switch , through the PTO switch , through the brake switch then down to the trigger terminal on the solenoid .
The last item, brake switch is some times hooked up to a relay switching the power and the lap bars connected to the ground on the same relay or a second relay and these feed the power to the starting solenoid trigger terminal.
Click to expand...
I did replace the solenoid and it’s cranking over fine just won’t run once I take the brake off. Now if I unhook the relay it runs but no pto. I’ve seen two ground wires that are bolted to the same as the negative that are rough looking but not terrible. I’ve seen the wires that link the ignition to the pro to the hour meter but I don’t see how that would interrupt the mower from running when I brake is released


#8

B

bertsmobile1

Put everything back together
If you can not hear the PTO engage when you pull the knob out
and the engine stops dead when you let the brake off
Then the mower sees no operator present .
I think on the Z225 there is a relay for that .


#9

StarTech

StarTech

There is only a few ways of knowing how the wiring is done. One is the electrical (wiring) diagram which is in the service manual another is take the mower to a shop that has the service manual. Unfortunately I currently don't have a customer with a Z225 so I have no need to purchase the service manual.

But as said the seat safety circuit does controls both magneto kill and PTO inhibit operations via relays since it is a normally open switch. Now JD does some of safety circuit a little different than most OEMs which why we need to see the schematics. A good example is the 445 where a PTO circuit must latched up at the moment the ignition is turned and a bad PTO switch cause it inhibit mower operations. Several relays in that mower setup.

Bert if I remember correctly with some JDs the kill circuits and starting circuits are interlaced. I think the 445 is one of them. Anyway without the schematic there is no way simple way to know; unless, a fellow has access to them.


#10

B

bertsmobile1

Exactly right
Same story here I only buy manuals as I need them
Got 5 Z225's in the service run, 1 is private & the other 2 are commercial customers who do residentials so need a small mower with a small deck.
None of them have ever had electrical problems , just failures of the deck lift but at 2000 hours on a domestic ZTR that is to be expected .
But we shall wait till Dave gets back
Sneaky feeling that there are 2 relays , one for the seat switch & another for the kill switch one of which could very well be bad.


#11

David2291

David2291

So after thinking about the daisy chain between the ignition switch, pto and hour meter I checked voltage between the switch and the pto switch. I’m only getting about 5 to 6 volts and then nothing past the pto switch. So I checked continuity on the ignition switch and the ground to magneto have it and so does battery to ground when I turn the switch but nothing for anything else. I don’t have the money right now for the technical Manuel so just trouble shooting about everything


#12

David2291

David2291

As the relay goes I have found one that’s bolted under the solenoid and replaced that but nothing. Unless there is another hidden somewhere i don’t see


#13

David2291

David2291

bertsmobile1 said:
Exactly right
Same story here I only buy manuals as I need them
Got 5 Z225's in the service run, 1 is private & the other 2 are commercial customers who do residentials so need a small mower with a small deck.
None of them have ever had electrical problems , just failures of the deck lift but at 2000 hours on a domestic ZTR that is to be expected .
But we shall wait till Dave gets back
Sneaky feeling that there are 2 relays , one for the seat switch & another for the kill switch one of which could very well be bad.
Click to expand...
Sorry replied to the post not yours. Not sure how notifications works


#14

StarTech

StarTech

If you are only 5 to 6 volts where should be getting nearly 12v, you connection problem or bad ignition switch. Look careful that connector that plugs into the ignition and make none wire terminal don't have a broken spring hinge. They do crack and become loose causing lost of voltage.


#15

David2291

David2291

StarTech said:
If you are only 5 to 6 volts where should be getting nearly 12v, you connection problem or bad ignition switch. Look careful that connector that plugs into the ignition and make none wire terminal don't have a broken spring hinge. They do crack and become loose causing lost of voltage.
Click to expand...
Bad ignition switch. Jumped power to the yellow wire off of it and everything worked. Replaced it and runs fine now. Thank you to everyone who helped


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