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Model 17ASDGHD056 SN 1C208H60075 2018
Hi all, i replaced the battery around a year ago (Walmart). The engine turns over1/8th to maybe a full revolution and then stops. It does this with a battery charger on ar 40 amps also. Put the battery on trickle charge for a few days it showed full charge. Is this a battery issue or a starter issue or something else i havent thought of?
Thanks in advance

Check the battery with a tester that puts a "load" on it, they are cheap in places like harbor freight.
Sometimes a battery will measure the correct voltage, but when you put any load on it ( like trying to start an engine) it will drop to a bad voltage.

Could be valves out of adjustment.

Start by trying to turn the engine over by hand
Of you can not do that take out the spark plug out & try again BY HAND
If petrol oozes / blasts out the mower has hydro locked because the carb float is not working
If it rotates freely plug out but won't do it plug in the either the ACR is broken or as HLW49 suggested above the valve lash is excessive & defeating the ACR .

On My 2015 cub with kohler kT735 you have to adjust the valves every 200 hours or it does the same thing. Now My 2017 kohler KT735 has never had a problem turning over hard.

The needs to be load tested as many charger will show full charge as they just reference charge voltage and not capacity.

bertsmobile1 said:

If it rotates freely plug out but won't do it plug in the either the ACR is broken or as HLW49 suggested above the valve lash is excessive & defeating the ACR .

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Only one problem there as there is no ACR on the camshaft to break on that Kohler KT740-3083. Now the valves would not hurt to be adjusted, just be careful not to damage the rocker covers as they are the stamped steel one that uses RTV to seal them.


Personally it is a voltage drop cause by a bad connection, bad battery (The Walmart battery had only a 90 day warranty.) or bad starter bushings. I replace several of these starters in the last 5 years that would bind under cranking rotation loads. Every one I disassembly had a bad top bushing and some rust.

To take the valve cover off take the bolts out and put a block of wood against the side of the valve cover and hit the block of wood with a hammer to break it loose.

hlw49 said:

To take the valve cover off take the bolts out and put a block of wood against the side of the valve cover and hit the block of wood with a hammer to break it loose.

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Glad to see someone else know how to remove these covers.

Thanks for correcting my error
Obviously I have yet to dive deeply into a KT740.
Generally I use a piece of fine piano wire to chop the silicon on anything that has been glued on .
And being a silicon hater, the two I do service now sport some nice hand cut gaskets as I have better things to do than spend hours trying to remove globs of silicon.

Take a look at this https://www.summitracing.com › parts › ptx-25238

hlw49 said:

Take a look at this https://www.summitracing.com › parts › ptx-25238

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Fine for something like a hydro case that will hopefully only come apart once in 10 years or longer
But a dissaster for things like a rocker cover that comes off regularly
Some nice Klingerit gaskets applied with Hylomar on one side & bentonite grease or graphite on the the other and it will strip clean without breaking every time & require nothing more than a quick wipe with a shop rag before reassembly.
I have pulled down so may engines on cart & motorcycles where more than 1/2 the oil pick up screen was clogged with silicon than I could count.
I have been in workshops and seen tubes of silicon in caulking guns because they do not clean the old stuff off, just keep putting it on thicker & thicker .

What do you think they use when they assemble the engines at the factory? Do they smear it on and wait to assemble the engines and an hour to torque them and wait 24 hrs to test run the engines or do they even do that anymore.

What Briggs supplies is the regular stuff. But cleaning the RTV off isn't as bad for me and of the engine I have disassembled that are factory sealed are clean of RTV. It is those in the field that is making a mess of things. I even had one idiot to try to RTV a head gasket and couldn't find why the engine would not run. Besides you don't have to go hog wild when applying the RTV. And there is a curing time for what I use.

As for the factory test running every engine I very doubt that happens on the assembly line. Besides it would required us in the field to clean brand new engines carburetors everytime we turned around. They just do a random sampling of the engines for quality control.

Don't know what is done over there but down here they used to get hooked up to a propane / air feed hose and fiired up without oil, just the assembly lube.
So it is basically engine fires more than once = good

Hmmm, that is a good possibility but to me that not a real test. I usually have to test a lot longer on a rebuild here to check for leaks at least. Now of course I haven't in one their factories to see for myself either. I wonder if the local Briggs factory would let me tour the engine assembly plant. Probably not since I not a dealer.

Skip Z Force 60 said:

Model 17ASDGHD056 SN 1C208H60075 2018
Hi all, i replaced the battery around a year ago (Walmart). The engine turns over1/8th to maybe a full revolution and then stops. It does this with a battery charger on ar 40 amps also. Put the battery on trickle charge for a few days it showed full charge. Is this a battery issue or a starter issue or something else i havent thought of?
Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

Pull the spark plug and see if turns over then. Do not look in the plug hole when you turn on the switch might be fuel or what ever in there.

StarTech said:

Hmmm, that is a good possibility but to me that not a real test. I usually have to test a lot longer on a rebuild here to check for leaks at least. Now of course I haven't in one their factories to see for myself either. I wonder if the local Briggs factory would let me tour the engine assembly plant. Probably not since I not a dealer.

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What you need to remember that this is an assembly line so none of the engines had a problem to be fixed unlike what comes into your workshop.
So all they are doing is the most basic of test to make sure that most of the parts have been put in and the engine runs.
After that the rest is up to the dealers.
Leyland "Hot Run Tested"all of their cars at the Zetland plant where I worked one summer break.
"Hot Run Testing " = starting the car at the end of the assembly track & driving it either to despatch or mechanical rectification both of which were about 1000 yards away at the opposite end of the plant .
The engine plant did the bit with the propane .

We need to keep things in perspective.
These are the cheapest engines it is possible to build so they are not going to be placed on a water brake tested & tuned for peak performance before despatch .

Sorry it took so long go get back, life happens. Anyway i went and tightened all electrical connections, all were tight, and still nogo, pulled both spark plugs rotated just fine with no debries coming out of sparkplug hole. Reinstalled and not rotating like it should. This unit has only 120 hours on it. I am thinking it may be in the compression side of things as it appeared to rotate in reverse a couple of times after i let off the key.
Thanks

Im back sorry took so long to get back with ya, short recap, 2018 Z Force 60 Cub zero turn w/ Kohler 25 hp, 7000 series, KT740-725 cc. Will not start appears to be getting compression bound. Newer battery, used charger with 40 amps to jump and trickle charged for 3 days, still no go, pulled spark plugs turns over great, pulled valve covers and adjusted valves to .005ish (they did not appear to be off only 120 hrs on it), all 4 lifting rods are lifting valves as they should. Still appears to be compression related, gets 1 revolution then stops ( even when jumped), sometimes kicks backwards a little when you let off the key. Worked on lots of different rigs and have never run into something like this. Help if ya can, thanks