Cub Cadet apparently made some changes in the XT2 in '21 as in using an electric clutch. I can't find any info online as to how to change the drive belt with these models. It looks like either the clutch has to be removed, or the bracket holding the clutch has to be removed in order to slip the drive belt on. Any advice on this would be appreciated.
XT2 LX46 2021 model
- Thread starter Lonestar
- Start date
Or it's possible that the Clutch Stop Bracket can be removed and access to the drive pulley made that way by just slipping the belt over the clutch. I'm looking for the most simple way to do this and was hoping someone had actually been through this process.
If I do have to drop the clutch, do I just remove the nut holding it on the drive shaft and pull down on it? If so, that could be pretty simple also.
Then there is the matter of how to take tension off the drive belt. Nothing really sticks out as to how this is accomplished.
EDIT: After looking at it again, I think both the clutch and drive pulley have to come off. The drive pulley has belt guards around it, so it's got to drop down to get the belt on it. And maybe tension can be taken off the belt by pushing down and locking the brake??
If I do have to drop the clutch, do I just remove the nut holding it on the drive shaft and pull down on it? If so, that could be pretty simple also.
Then there is the matter of how to take tension off the drive belt. Nothing really sticks out as to how this is accomplished.
EDIT: After looking at it again, I think both the clutch and drive pulley have to come off. The drive pulley has belt guards around it, so it's got to drop down to get the belt on it. And maybe tension can be taken off the belt by pushing down and locking the brake??
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2020
- Threads
- 79
- Messages
- 10,274
Yes setting the parking brake usually takes the tension off. And it not a nut but is a long hex cap screw. it is a 7/16-20 X 3.50 | (12/1/22 & Before). And it is torqued to 50-55 ft-lbs; preferably 55 ft-lbs.
When dropping the pulleys just sure you don't lose any spacers that might be there.
When dropping the pulleys just sure you don't lose any spacers that might be there.
Last edited:
Got it, thank you. What is the preferred way to keep the drive shaft from turning while removing the hex cap screw and re-torquing?
I've seen videos where sprk plug was pulled, and a piece of rope was inserted in the top of the cylinder, and then another where a screwdriver was used to wedge the flywheel. That concerns me as I would hate to break a tooth off the flywheel.
I've seen videos where sprk plug was pulled, and a piece of rope was inserted in the top of the cylinder, and then another where a screwdriver was used to wedge the flywheel. That concerns me as I would hate to break a tooth off the flywheel.
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2020
- Threads
- 79
- Messages
- 10,274
Getting the screw is the easy part just use an impact with a 5/8 (16mm) socket.
Getting screw torqued is harder as you got the hold the flywheel while torquing the screw. This where you need a helper.
This particular PTO clutch does appear to have a double D bushing that I designed and had made a tool for holding it while I torquing the screw. It is recessed so a open end wrench can't simply be to hold it.
I would not recommend the rope trick as you might bend a valve. And so in 14yrs I have yet to break a flywheel tooth.
Getting screw torqued is harder as you got the hold the flywheel while torquing the screw. This where you need a helper.
This particular PTO clutch does appear to have a double D bushing that I designed and had made a tool for holding it while I torquing the screw. It is recessed so a open end wrench can't simply be to hold it.
I would not recommend the rope trick as you might bend a valve. And so in 14yrs I have yet to break a flywheel tooth.
Last edited:
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,705
Stilsons on the spacer between the transmission & deck pulleys
I was wondering how to keep the rope from putting pressure on the valves. What does the helper need to do? Are you saying it's probably OK to use a screwdriver wedged in the flywheel? I wouldn't think 55 ft lbs would not be a lot of pressure on the teeth.
Not sure what you are saying??
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,705
Stilsons is a pipe wrench
You can also use a lock jaw wrench , a chain wrench or even a chain lock jaw wrench around the shaft
Most times it will hit against the side of the mower or the clutch anchor plate which leave 2 hands free for tensioning
Some grease or copper anti-seize on the shaft before you replace the pulleys will stop them rusting onto the PTO shaft
According to the IPL your set up had a boss welded to the drive pulley on both sides so that is where you lock on to.
While it is off you could file flats on it to fit your biggest open ender to hold it for the tensioning
As Star has already mentioned some clutches have 2 flats on the end for the purpose of holding the shaft
You always have to keep in mind that some one had to install it on the assembly line and prefferably by themselves in no more than a minute or so
Your pulley has spacers top & bottom
Weather there is enough space to get at them is another matter
Usually the bolt will come out with a rattle gun easily with you holding the pulley in a LEATHER gloved hand .
It is the tensioning that is the problem
To do the Indian Rope Trick you work out which cylinder is on the inlet stroke , stuff the rope in at bottom dead centre then turn the engine which being on compression will have both valves closed .
Done properly the piston jams at TDC where you are very unlikely to do rod damage as the force in running directly down the rod to the journal
Conversely when the piston is 1/2 way down ( up if you like ) the rod is near 45 deg to the journal and there you stand the greatest chance of bending the rod .
The system is designed to resist the maximum amount of force from the burning charge just after TDC and that is a lot more than you can generate with a tension wrench .
You can also use a lock jaw wrench , a chain wrench or even a chain lock jaw wrench around the shaft
Most times it will hit against the side of the mower or the clutch anchor plate which leave 2 hands free for tensioning
Some grease or copper anti-seize on the shaft before you replace the pulleys will stop them rusting onto the PTO shaft
According to the IPL your set up had a boss welded to the drive pulley on both sides so that is where you lock on to.
While it is off you could file flats on it to fit your biggest open ender to hold it for the tensioning
As Star has already mentioned some clutches have 2 flats on the end for the purpose of holding the shaft
You always have to keep in mind that some one had to install it on the assembly line and prefferably by themselves in no more than a minute or so
Your pulley has spacers top & bottom
Weather there is enough space to get at them is another matter
Usually the bolt will come out with a rattle gun easily with you holding the pulley in a LEATHER gloved hand .
It is the tensioning that is the problem
Because I have to do this a lot I have some long threaded rods I use to reinstall the electric PTO as some of them are quite heavy and holding them up while rotating the inner shaft to align the key & slot rips the hell out of my hernia.
To do the Indian Rope Trick you work out which cylinder is on the inlet stroke , stuff the rope in at bottom dead centre then turn the engine which being on compression will have both valves closed .
Done properly the piston jams at TDC where you are very unlikely to do rod damage as the force in running directly down the rod to the journal
Conversely when the piston is 1/2 way down ( up if you like ) the rod is near 45 deg to the journal and there you stand the greatest chance of bending the rod .
The system is designed to resist the maximum amount of force from the burning charge just after TDC and that is a lot more than you can generate with a tension wrench .
Last edited: