XT2 acts like it is out of fuel after 15 minutes runtime.

[Joe Kuhn]

Start at the basics. Air, fuel, spark and compression.

1.Air = remove air filter FOR TESTING ONLY.

2.Fuel = remove fuel line AT carb. Pour into a glass jar. Start engine if you have an fuel pump or let gravity do it's thing. Should have good fuel flow AT carb.

Clean carb. Might take 3 cleans till she works proper. Stay away from ebay/amazon chinese carbs. Or replace carb with OEM.

Check for vacuum leaks. Spray WD-40 around carb mount and intake manifold areas. If the engine smooths out, you found your leak.

3.Spark = take an old plug. Gap to 1/4" wide. Ground on engine block. Should have a nice blue spark.

4.Compression = use a gauge and see what you have.

Have you ever pulled the metal engine shroud and cleaned the top of the block and cooling fins? This is a yearly maintenance item in ALL engine manuals. Neglect this and you are looking at engine damage. I know, what cooling fins.

@6620, This is an excellent overview of what you can do yourself. If you were near me, I'd offer to help, but I bet you're not. Notice the spun wire cleaners in my Avatar which is the little picture above my name to the left of each of my posts. That's what I use to clean jets in carbs. Based on some discussion, it appears you have a fuel pump instead of a carb. I have no experience with pumps, so you're on your own there. Good luck and remember: there is ALWAYS a reason, you just have to discover it. That is the task.

There is ALWAYS a reason. ALWAYS.

 

[6620]

waiting for dealer #3 to tell me they are done with the mower. Then I will go pay the bill and retrieve the mower. If they do not get it fixed, I will first change the fuel lines. then go down the list posted by slomo.

 

[6620]

@6620, This is an excellent overview of what you can do yourself. If you were near me, I'd offer to help, but I bet you're not. Notice the spun wire cleaners in my Avatar which is the little picture above my name to the left of each of my posts. That's what I use to clean jets in carbs. Based on some discussion, it appears you have a fuel pump instead of a carb. I have no experience with pumps, so you're on your own there. Good luck and remember: there is ALWAYS a reason, you just have to discover it. That is the task.

There is ALWAYS a reason. ALWAYS.

No Carb??

 

[Joe Kuhn]

No Carb??

Not sure what you mean.

 

[Joe Kuhn]

waiting for dealer #3 to tell me they are done with the mower. Then I will go pay the bill and retrieve the mower. If they do not get it fixed, I will first change the fuel lines. then go down the list posted by slomo.

Giterdun!

 

[6620]

See picture, this is what the mechanic manufactured to make the pto belt work properly. Dealer 2 put a new deck belt on. It (the prior new belt) was screeched out after 5 hours of use. Mechanic said that he called cub cadet and asked if there was a repair to make the pto engagement work properly, they said no one else had complained about the pto not putting the proper tension on the belt. So if you guys start burning belts, here is what you might need to do. So this last weekend, my wife got 11 minutes before the cutting out started. So then I changed out the fuel lines. Made no difference. Then she would get about 7 minutes before it would cut out. I raised the seat and cleaned the seat shutoff connection. That too made no difference. When she starts the mower, she turns the key back one notch. and pushed the triangle shaped button. That allows you to back up while the deck is engaged. She said that a time or two when she went to back up the mower would again try to die (cut out). She would look down and the light for the backup lock out would be out. So now I am thinking it is the switch. So I called dealer 3 and asked if they had an ignition switch in stock. They checked and said yes we have 10. I asked how much are they? $80.07. So then I asked why do you have so many? They said we sell a lot of them, people park the mowers outside in the rain and the switches don't last that long in that condition. I stopped by dealer 1 to see about a new headlight for the mower. I asked if they had a switch in stock. I wanted to see what the back side looked like to evaluate my ability to change it myself. While I was there another customer came in wanting to buy that switch because he said the key keeps breaking off in it.

 

[6620]

See picture. What does this wire do. I can tell you what it did this last weekend. Apparently it came loose and prohibited the mower from starting. My Son pushed the plug in in and then the mower started. I have been putting Seafoam in the fuel tank for about the last month. So besides the failure to start it only went to cutting out once after 7 minutes of run time. I bought an ignition switch to put on this last weekend. but it appears I need to buy this wire harness instead. We now have a mark on the white part of the plugin. So we can check it from time to time. I can tell you we noticed before we put the mower away it was 1/4 of an inch down from where it should have been. Thanks

 

[Scrubcadet10]

That's the anti afterfire solenoid, it has metal pin with a rubber plunger on the end, that stops up the main jet to prevent that "BANG" you rarely get after you shut off your mower.

 

[6620]

the plug in for that comes loose and prohibits the mower from starting. I have to confirm my engine numbers with the dealer, then I can buy the solenoid for only 100.80. Still would like to get the wire harness for that. Since I don't know which one is screeched out.

 

[slomo]

the plug in for that comes loose and prohibits the mower from starting. I have to confirm my engine numbers with the dealer, then I can buy the solenoid for only 100.80. Still would like to get the wire harness for that. Since I don't know which one is screeched out.

Remove the carb solenoid. Snip off the plunger tip and wire holding the tip. Reinstall solenoid. Free.