XT2 acts like it is out of fuel after 15 minutes runtime.

[slomo]

When out of pocket expenditures start piling up as you are describing, it’s time to unload it.

And of course disclose everything wrong with the mower prior to selling. Be a stand up person when you sell something.

slomo

 

[slomo]

Could be

ignition coil going bad
engine over heating.
fuel pump going out if you have one
dirty fuel tank

Have you ever pulled the metal engine shroud and cleaned the top of the block and cooling fins? This is a yearly maintenance item in ALL engine manuals. Neglect this and you are looking at engine damage. I know, what fins??

 

[MParr]

This “saga” has been going on for ten months. Several people have tried to help with solutions. There are service bulletins that have been referenced. It’s evidently out of warranty. You have taken it to three different places and gotten no results.We don’t know if this mower was purchased new. We don’t know if substandard repairs or modifications have been made to the mower. Kohler makes good engines. If they didn’t, they wouldn’t be around. I had a Troybilt (MTD) 50” ZTR. It had a 24hp Kohler Courage engine on it. It had just over 1,000 hours on it when I traded it. It still ran strong and mowed 3 acres every week.

 

[6620]

Bought it brand new. And yes I tried all the prior suggestions from last year. I can't get any of the dealers to do the vent bypass as mentioned in service bulletin #378. They just told me they checked that, and it was fine. As if I was a little old lady complaining about a speck on the glass. What do you think it is worth. John Deere already told me they wouldn't give anything for it. (I didn't tell them it didn't run right.)

 

[6620]

Could be

ignition coil going bad
engine over heating.pan
fuel pump going out if you have one
dirty fuel tank

Have you ever pulled the metal engine shroud and cleaned the top of the block and cooling fins? This is a yearly maintenance item in ALL engine manuals. Neglect this and you are looking at engine damage.

Yes, they replaced one coil pack, not both. I told them to put the other one on. Fuel tank is clean. I am suspicioning collapsed fuel lines. I think it does have a fuel pump. The first dealer did a pressure test on it. What bothers me the most is that if you have a car with this type of problem, the dealer can fix it within a day or two. Here we take the mower in get it back in about 3 weeks, and it is still not fixed. We mow about 5 months out of the year. When you take 3 weeks out of each month, well that doesn't leave much time for mowing. I now know why commercial mower companies haul 3 mowers with them. Thanks for your reply.

 

[slomo]

I am suspicioning collapsed fuel lines

Yup replace if they don't look like a new hose. They collapse inside and let tiny pieces of hose and grunge go straight to the carburetor.

slomo

 

[MParr]

We now know it’s a Kohler KT725-3013.
The fuel pump bolts on to the engine.

 

[Joe Kuhn]

The saga continues. We have bought a new gas cap. We are now on our third Cub Cadet dealer. Still have the same problems and a few new ones. After 10 minutes mowing the mower acts like it is running out of fuel, and surges from time to time. Dealer one told us that they could not get it to act up. Dealer 2 told us it was a clogged fuel filter and the air filter was dirty. So both of them were replaced. We still have the same problem. So dealer 3 (the one we bought it from) took it in also kept it for 2 and a half weeks. Came back with it had a bad coil pack. So they replaced it. Not both just the bad one. And of course it still does the same thing. 10 minutes and it is cutting out and not running well. Dealer 2 put a new deck belt on, since the old one was stretched. Well after 5 hours the new belt Part number 954-05021 Which according to cub cadet is the right belt. Is too stretched out to work. So dealer 3 is telling me number 2 put on the wrong belt. Dealer 3 has the mower back again, they are trying to figure out why the belt doesn't tighten up when the pto is engaged (manual). So I contacted cub cadet today. With them you can either chat online or they give you a phone number to the engine manufacturer. By the way Kohler's number is 1-800-800-7310. Kohler, or course grinded me for not taking it to my local dealer. Then said they would reach out to the dealer that has the mower now. All cub cadet chat could do was confirm that dealer #2 did put on the right belt. Now this is costing me about $350.00 per visit. I am getting tired quick. the mower has 378 hours on it. Any suggestions?

If you're not going to try to fix it yourself, then you need a dealer who will. The dealers you're working with are not skilled enough to fix this. Change that or get some tools and go at it. Acting like it's running out of fuel and surging is probably carburetor related or maybe something as simple as a plugged fuel line. Do you put stabilizer in your fuel? If not, you should.

 

[slomo]

If you're not going to try to fix it yourself, then you need a dealer who will. The dealers you're working with are hacks. Change that or get some tools and go at it. Acting like it's running out of fuel and surging is probably carburetor related or maybe something as simple as a plugged fuel line. Do you put stabilizer in your fuel? If not, you should.

Agreed. Seeing a lot of typing and not much fixing.

 

[slomo]

Bought it brand new. And yes I tried all the prior suggestions from last year. I can't get any of the dealers to do the vent bypass as mentioned in service bulletin #378. They just told me they checked that, and it was fine. As if I was a little old lady complaining about a speck on the glass. What do you think it is worth. John Deere already told me they wouldn't give anything for it. (I didn't tell them it didn't run right.)

Start at the basics. Air, fuel, spark and compression.

1.Air = remove air filter FOR TESTING ONLY.

2.Fuel = remove fuel line AT carb. Pour into a glass jar. Start engine if you have an fuel pump or let gravity do it's thing. Should have good fuel flow AT carb.

Clean carb. Might take 3 cleans till she works proper. Stay away from ebay/amazon chinese carbs. Or replace carb with OEM.

Check for vacuum leaks. Spray WD-40 around carb mount and intake manifold areas. If the engine smooths out, you found your leak.

3.Spark = take an old plug. Gap to 1/4" wide. Ground on engine block. Should have a nice blue spark.

4.Compression = use a gauge and see what you have.

Have you ever pulled the metal engine shroud and cleaned the top of the block and cooling fins? This is a yearly maintenance item in ALL engine manuals. Neglect this and you are looking at engine damage. I know, what cooling fins.