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got away w/ one more spring/summer however she died mid fall just when I got the bagger adjusted hate to have to rack 1/2 acre of leaves.

worn out cam preventing ignition the drag on the starter was to much the starter is officially dune this w/ battery at 12.6 VDC. I've been adjusting valves however I believe the cam lobe is so worn it won't hold adjustment.

orginale engine 2009 snapper 12.5hp intex .344cc 219907 0131BL 0864307A

possibilitys
1 new engine swap. $500.my snapper came w/ a 12.5 hp intex which is the correct amount of power like for overgrown grass, the engine I've picked is 1hp less any opinions.
the 12.5 hp isn't available new so next choice is 17hp but I'm not sure of it being a direct swap plus 17hp would be way to overkill for my 1/2 acre.

https://www.kohler-engine-parts.ope...ngine-21r8070072g1-115-gross-hp-intek-p-35864
there website states it replaces my orginal engine so I'm hopping it's a direct swap.
I assumme the pulley on the crank isn't included w/ new engine?
I've read that this pulley is difficult to remove and reuse?

2.cam swap + new starter $99. cam $50.
https://www.google.com/search?q=sna...QAw&biw=1024&bih=447#spd=11786278345877675913 would require a few special tools like
fly wheel puller/valve spring compressor.
I think a cam swap could be done because she runs strong so I assuume bottom end has lots of life.

3.brand new snapper mower is chinese nuf said.

I did se e a ebray used engine for $375. however the seller won't respond to a couple ?s so I pass on him.

I have the bagger adjusted works great. will I have to reuse my old muffler I've read the new catalictic converter inside muffler will burn the bags webbing is this true or false?

I only attached one image not 2 as shown.

thanks for any advice TB

looks like you have the 793880 cam known for the compression relief failing on it.
the cam was superseded to this https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/briggs-stratton/84005207

thanks for the advice how did you find the pn for the originale cam? I've googled the model snapper couldn't find a cam pn.

I didn't know this was a known fail. jacks is kindof pricie how does this look https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XFKHT4...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I only mow my yard so the snapper isn't used but twice a month four times during fall/winter.

so it mite be worth purchasing the special tools required for cam swap.if I can get a few more years outof the snapper by then I hope to be living at a marina, it would be worth swapping a cam.

apparently I don't need to compress valves springs like this?

can I expect to see the broken cam pieces intact down in bottom of engine, I thinking w/ my luck there grinded up ready to sieze the engine.
Thanks again TB

I typed in the engine model number you supplied
"orginal engine 2009 snapper 12.5hp intex .344cc 219907 0131BL 0864307A "

No special tools needed to swap out the cam. Your hardest part will be getting the pulley off the crankshaft. I’ve found that cam for less than $45.00. This manual may help if you decide to tackle the job. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ybEN0LWo3azl6OUU

Honestly i wouldn't trust a $35 cam from an Unknown (reputation wise seller), as far as cam shafts go, Jacks has a good price.
there are a few OEM for sale on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Briggs-Stratton-84005207-Camshaft-/333633500155

Scrubcadet10 said:

Honestly i wouldn't trust a $35 cam from an Unknown (reputation wise seller), as far as cam shafts go, Jacks has a good price.
there are a few OEM for sale on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Briggs-Stratton-84005207-Camshaft-/333633500155

Click to expand...

Way too much work to gamble on the cam being good .
Las thing you want is to redo it in 3 years because the cam had bad heat treatment and wore round .

I do agree with Scrub and Bert, not your best bet buying cheap aftermarket parts. Just didn’t know how low you were thinking when you balked at Jack’s prices. Have found the OEM part available at HomeDepot for $67.00.

Rivets said:

No special tools needed to swap out the cam. Your hardest part will be getting the pulley off the crankshaft. I’ve found that cam for less than $45.00. This manual may help if you decide to tackle the job. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ybEN0LWo3azl6OUU

Click to expand...

yes you are right just regular tools which I have except for the torch to heat the pulley. or can I soak in liquid wrench? then use a 3 ponged puller?

I thought the tension on the valve spring had to be released to remove cam which required a compressor tool.

the snapper has been in Georgia now Alabama it's whole life it was gargarged. is the damp/wet cuttings responsible for the pulley to rust to crank shaft?
thanks so much for the repair manual link that's like a shop manuel. TB

Scrubcadet10 said:

Honestly i wouldn't trust a $35 cam from an Unknown (reputation wise seller), as far as cam shafts go, Jacks has a good price.
there are a few OEM for sale on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Briggs-Stratton-84005207-Camshaft-/333633500155

Click to expand...

you make alot of sense, initially I thought $100. for snapper cam kindof pricie for being orginale I guess I was expecting some lope and increase in performance for that $. I daily drive a 99 pontiac trans am 500HP vehicle. thanks so much for the ebay link just saved me $20.TB

Rivets said:

I do agree with Scrub and Bert, not your best bet buying cheap aftermarket parts. Just didn’t know how low you were thinking when you balked at Jack’s prices. Have found the OEM part available at HomeDepot for $67.00.

Click to expand...

OK the cheap cam most likely from china is outtof consideration.

now I have the correct part # I will search, I assumme this HD part is still available a link would be a big $ saver. thanks Guys I'll be degreasing the snapper prepping engine removal.

edit: I ordered a starter for the snapper this.https://www.walmart.com/ip/DB-Electrical-SBS0004-Starter-For-Briggs-Stratton-11-To-25-Hp-Engines-497401-494198-494990-112563-BS-399169-BS-499521-75255-75255-A-410-22005-410-220/195508814

wasn't installed because I found out the starter requires a plastic gear. I'll need advice on the starter also

I think this could be the correct starter not sure if it's OK to post a link https://www.partswarehouse.com/Briggs-Stratton-Motor-Starter-BS-593934-p/bs-593934.htm

dam why is the correct starter 3 times the cost of simiair starters?
thanks Guys for support TB

Scrubcadet10 said:

looks like you have the 793880 cam known for the compression relief failing on it.
the cam was superseded to this https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/briggs-stratton/84005207

Click to expand...

when a part is superceded is it also reengineered to not fail. a cam should last the life of a engine.

Yes, briggs shows 593934 as the correct starter for your engine.
Let me look at stens and see if they have a replacement starter to fit, Yep, Stens 435-300 will replace the OEM briggs. So you can search google for thet 435-300 number and price check.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Yes, briggs shows 593934 as the correct starter for your engine.
Let me look at stens and see if they have a replacement starter to fit, Yep, Stens 435-300 will replace the OEM briggs. So you can search google for thet 435-300 number and price check.

Click to expand...

hows this look https://www.ebay.com/i/274547789606?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 thanks again for saving me $ you the man.undecided on rebuilt electrical parts like starters alternaters ect. for mower mite be fine for my car I only want new OEM or used OEM just not rebuilt.

I may have to pay someone to heat the pulley up to remove, hate to ruin a $35. pulley, is this heating method the only way to remove the pulley like can't I soak in liquid wrench then use a 3 ponged puller? the rest of the cam swap is doable for me. thanks again TB

I'd try PB Blaster or Liquid wrench first, if that gets it off, it's free.

seams all the videos I watch (there's a bunch) the compression release attachments are always collected inside the sump cover. seams to me these tiny little parts bounceing around inside engine would be grinded up and seize the engine.

so this Guy choking carb can expect the broken pieces to stay collected in sump?
if yes the maybe just leave the pieces inside engine and then adding external compression release on briggs engine is this possiable.

do you remember the mid 70s Yamaha 500cc single cylinder thumpers they had a manuel compression release .

Fix it right, replacing the cam is cheaper than eventually replacing the entire engine or tractor when metal gets in the wrong place.

The Brain said:

OK the cheap cam most likely from china is outtof consideration.

now I have the correct part # I will search, I assumme this HD part is still available a link would be a big $ saver. thanks Guys I'll be degreasing the snapper prepping engine removal.

edit: I ordered a starter for the snapper this.https://www.walmart.com/ip/DB-Electrical-SBS0004-Starter-For-Briggs-Stratton-11-To-25-Hp-Engines-497401-494198-494990-112563-BS-399169-BS-499521-75255-75255-A-410-22005-410-220/195508814

wasn't installed because I found out the starter requires a plastic gear. I'll need advice on the starter also

I think this could be the correct starter not sure if it's OK to post a link https://www.partswarehouse.com/Briggs-Stratton-Motor-Starter-BS-593934-p/bs-593934.htm

dam why is the correct starter 3 times the cost of simiair starters?
thanks Guys for support TB

Click to expand...

The starter is a bog standard B & S starter
The gears are service parts and replacable
All that is important is the tooth count and from memory the steel plastic & alloy gears all have a different count.
The actual starters are all the same ( long , heavy duty & short , light duty )
The prices are different because they were bought as QC rejects or scrap then the vendor googled the part number to work out the price as they have no idea about what they are selling.
Next cheap starters are exactly the same as cheap cams, GARBAGE that LOOKS the same so will "fit" but will fall apart in a very short time and often take the wiring , solenoid alternator &/or rectifier with it when it fails .

THE TOOTH FAIRY & the MAGIC PUDDING are children's stories , they do not exist
or as dad used to say
"He who buys cheap pays thrice "

bertsmobile1 said:

The starter is a bog standard B & S starter
The gears are service parts and replacable
All that is important is the tooth count and from memory the steel plastic & alloy gears all have a different count.
The actual starters are all the same ( long , heavy duty & short , light duty )
The prices are different because they were bought as QC rejects or scrap then the vendor googled the part number to work out the price as they have no idea about what they are selling.
Next cheap starters are exactly the same as cheap cams, GARBAGE that LOOKS the same so will "fit" but will fall apart in a very short time and often take the wiring , solenoid alternator &/or rectifier with it when it fails .

THE TOOTH FAIRY & the MAGIC PUDDING are children's stories , they do not exist
or as dad used to say
"He who buys cheap pays thrice "

Click to expand...

are you saying I could of used the walmart starter w/ the steel gears if they where the same # 0f teeth?
I really like youre daddys quote he is a wise man is OK I use it.TB

what mite be interesting is disassemble clean out broken piece reassemble. then tap the cylinder head for a mauel compression release.reuse orginale cam minus the CR piece.

or clean it out reassemble and manually choke it. it mite be a stretch reaching backard while standing on brake seated.

I'll probably attempt disassembly in a week few weeks.while vistors are here.

your money, your engine.

I was messing I'll do it right w/ OEM will document the whole swap.
to bad the compression can't be lowed enought w/ like a thicker head gasket.

to bad there's a weak starter wouldn't a stronger starter and minus the cam attachment.TB

update: goods is I was able to get a deal on a used engine and she looks nice seller claims runs good not the oil leaking loose valved oginale.
bad news is it's 6 hours away.

couple days ago I posted up on Uship independant carriers aren't cheap a 24x24x24 50lb box that is loaded & unloaded is well over $200. I was expecting a freight bill of around $50.
so the devils increase of fuel probablly leads to higher transportation stuff.

mite a day trip to the Georgia coast.

I will create a new thread on the swap. undecided what to do w/ orginal starters worn, valvetrain wore dirty carb.
scape yard time like the block is solid aluminum anyone scrape one?

# on valve cover
new to me engine
Model type code

219907 0131 B1 0805212A
Orginal engine
219907 0131 B1 086432A

someone please tell me these are the exact same size engines.
the only differnce I could do w/out is the set/lock screw for adjusting valves. maybe after a few more adjustments I will get the hang of it.do you Guys adjust every year or just wait till the starter drags?
thanks

Only difference is manufacture date.

excellent which is newer? haven't gotten posetion arrarning shipping myself or I mite pick up myself.

what do you like of the set screw on either engine. I'd think an allen locker makes the adjustment easier than holding it together w/ my hand while tightening sounds rather caveman primative method dam. rant over.

Both built the same year, but I’m sorry this old fart has forgotten how to read the rest of the code number. Adjusting valves properly is an experienced skill. Once you get the hang of it, it doesn’t matter which locking system you have.

219907 0131 B1 0805212A = 2008, May, 21st,
Orginal engine
219907 0131 B1 086432A = June of 2008... i think you read a digit or wrong, or are missing one...?
On the valves with the 2 lock nuts, the clearance tends to tighten up some while you tighten the lock nut, and of course while holding the adjuster nut.. not sure why but it does, so i usually set them a hair loose with the correct feeler gauge and with the gauge still in between the rocker and valve tighten it down, you want to feel a drag when you pull out, but it shouldn't be too tough to pull it out.

I'll start w/ soaking the pulley under engine w/ liquide wrenh then watch a few videos on how to.swap engines.

what I have read it could be diffiacult reailgn the static drive sys. doesn't the crank pulley sit one position woops I think there is a slite adjustment in height and this is where ppl mess up not enough fiction low power.

the new engines crank has rust should this be steel wooled down to shiny smooth?

Scrubcadet10 said:

219907 0131 B1 0805212A = 2008, May, 21st,
Orginal engine
219907 0131 B1 086432A = June of 2008... i think you read a digit or wrong, or are missing one...?
On the valves with the 2 lock nuts, the clearance tends to tighten up some while you tighten the lock nut, and of course while holding the adjuster nut.. not sure why but it does, so i usually set them a hair loose with the correct feeler gauge and with the gauge still in between the rocker and valve tighten it down, you want to feel a drag when you pull out, but it shouldn't be too tough to pull it out.

Click to expand...

here's a close up.

You definitely are missing a digit. Take a pencil and rub it over the code number on the original engine, the missing number will magically appear.

# on valve cover
new to me engine
Model type code

219907 0131 B1 0805212A
Orginal engine


219907 0131BL 0864307A

the orginal engines bottom end is fine.

can I replace the compression cam & cylinder head w/ improved valve train and keep as a spare engine.

replacment engine is strong second mow in week or less. then I'll know if I have a decent engine. I'm thinking of using amsoil 30weight oil. what do you guys use?