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Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Perform valve adjustment.

Load test the battery with a carbon pile tester. I see you sub'd in a car battery with no luck. Points to valves out of spec.

Check and clean all grounds. Grounds are the most overlooked cable on mowers.

What is the voltage AT the starter, while cranking?

JDusza said:

So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?

Click to expand...

Probably using a car compression tester on a small engine (gives you inaccurate readings) and valves are out of spec. Dynamic compression too high.

Thank you for the input. I guess I have to look at valves.
I can't say i understand the failure yet though as the cylinder is a closed can if the rings are good and the valves seat.
So how can compression be too high? If the valves don't seat won't that yield a loss in compression?
Are we saying the exhaust valve is stuck closed?
Thank you.
J

Read up on dynamic compression.

I found something on the net about a valve release system built into the cam shaft that relieves a bit of pressure so the starter can spin. The failure led to metal pieces in the sump and the need to replace the cam shaft.
Could this be my issue?
J

JDusza said:

I found something on the net about a valve release system built into the cam shaft that relieves a bit of pressure so the starter can spin. The failure led to metal pieces in the sump and the need to replace the cam shaft.
Could this be my issue?
J

Click to expand...

Yes, but the valves need to be properly set within tolerance to make the final decision if the compression release has failed. But don't wait too long to find out, because Briggs has a common issue of backordering the camshaft, and some of the warehouses are getting low on inventory.

JDusza said:

I found something on the net about a valve release system built into the cam shaft that relieves a bit of pressure so the starter can spin. The failure led to metal pieces in the sump and the need to replace the cam shaft.
Could this be my issue?
J

Click to expand...

Step 1). Load test battery and clean and tighten all connections.
Step 2). Check valve clearance and adjust as needed.
Step 3). Listen, learn, and don’t overthink things.

JDusza said:

Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

As these engine run, the moving valve parts wear a small fraction of an amount and the valve lash open up too much, which makes compression higher. With higher compression, the engine becomes harder to start, especially cold.

Valve adjustment is not and over complex task, you just have to take your time and double check the adjustments.

Here is a video about the valve adjustment process. This adjustment should be checked once per year before getting into the heavy cutting season. Adjust only with engine cold.

The compression release is on the intake valve.
It dumps some compression when the piston is just before TDC if the intake valve lash is .003-.005 with the piston 1/4 inch past TDC. .003 slowly turn the engine on the compression stroke and just before TDC you should see the intake valve stem just slightly bump towards open then re-close just before TDC. If you do not see this bump up the compression release on the camshaft might be bad.
Lot of information on-line about compression release on the single cylinder Briggs Intek engines and failure of the compression release and how to adjust the valves to get a compression release.
If the valve lash is at .003 and it still won't crank through insert a .002 feeler gauge under the rocker arm so as to take the lash to .001 and test crank.

Ignore compression readings for now.

Try this workaround. Turn the engine crankshaft backward till it turns hard because of compression, then use electric starter normally. Nature of the beast on some engines. Good luck

QUOTE
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No knowledge of how the car battery was attached . Attach jumper cable + to starter lug and - lead touching the starter case or other good ground .
If no crank then remove spark plug wire and unscrew the spark plug 1 round and try it .

I thought the compression release worked on the exhaust valve.
Thanks,
Doug Lee

No compressio release works off the bottom valve which is the intake. Three things can cause this problem valves out of adjustment. Broken compression release and can lobe slipped on the cam shaft. Adjust the valves and try to start it. If no start turn the engine backwards until it gets hard to turn and try to start it again. If no start it is probably the cam lobe has slipped on the cam shaft.

This is all adding up to a failed compression release. Aftermarket cams are junk and genuine Briggs are on backorder the last time I had to get one.

On top of it, the starter has likely been strained repeatedly and will soon fail once the cam problem is solved.

Hello hlw49
Thanks for that!
Doug Lee

Auto Doc's said:

This is all adding up to a failed compression release. Aftermarket cams are junk and genuine Briggs are on backorder the last time I had to get one.

On top of it, the starter has likely been strained repeatedly and will soon fail once the cam problem is solved.

Click to expand...

Looks like Ohio has 431, NY has 589, NC has 612, TX has 53, and UT has 214, and IA is out of stock but that is PD's version of a Amazon warehouse with robot picking and the robot AI hasn't learned to order it's own replacement stock yet. Iowa is always the first warehouse to run out of stock, and the last warehouse to get restocked.

Auto Doc's said:

This is all adding up to a failed compression release. Aftermarket cams are junk and genuine Briggs are on backorder the last time I had to get one.

On top of it, the starter has likely been strained repeatedly and will soon fail once the cam problem is solved.

Click to expand...

Very well could be the compression release failed.

I would adjust the valves first. Probably never been adjusted since the engine left the factory.

After 18 replies, 3 different starter replacement attempts and jumping with a vehicle battery, the obvious that has been explained is not sinking in.

This seems to be stuck in a "let's replace something loop"... valve adjustment does not compute. No capability?

Douglas Lee said:

Hello hlw49
Thanks for that!
Doug Lee

Click to expand...

yw

Auto Doc's said:

After 18 replies, 3 different starter replacement attempts and jumping with a vehicle battery, the obvious that has been explained is not sinking in.

This seems to be stuck in a "let's replace something loop"... valve adjustment does not compute. No capability?

Click to expand...

Some people have trouble listening and learning. Some people think their skills exceed reality. Most people, gratefully, are not like this.

Have the same issue with one of my mowers. It's the failed compression relief device. A major pain to fix requiring removal of the engine. My work around is to manually rotate the engine to just past TDC and then start it. Once the piston is at or slightly past top dead center it has enough of a head start to keep spinning and starting. It's a bit of an inconvenience but a lot easier than tearing down the engine to replace the part. Also, this will not work if you have a weak battery so make sure that's strong. Oh and another thing. When the compression device fails all the metal pieces will have fallen to the bottom of the crank case. I took one of those earth magnets on a flexible shaft and removed all the metal pieces through the oil fill tube.

Will almost guarantee its yiur compression release spring. Simply cover the intake on the air box assembly with a piece of cardboard and try it. Once it fires up remove the cardboard and it will run fine as the spring only comes into play to start it. Shame it requires a teardown to fix a two dollar part.

JDusza said:

Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

The compression release on your cam is broken, or your valves need adjusted. There's a little nub that cracks open the intake valve just a hair to relieve the compression. Once the motor starts centrifugal force will pull the nub in and it runs normal. Very common problem on the B&S motors.

The compression release failure appears to be the favoured diagnosis provided that the engine is on the mower with the blade fitted when you were turning it over. The blades and belts driving blades act as a flywheel that enables the crank to pass through compression stroke. (As anyone who had tried to pull an engine over with no blade connected and experienced the kick back will tell you!).

JDusza said:

Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

Check the compression release, those were notorious for the spring breaking.

JDusza said:

Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

Open the crankcase cover and replace camshaft. There is a decompressor on your camshaft that slightly opens the exhaust valve during cranking. It does that to release compression s it won't be difficult to turn. Same thing as on pull start engines.
That decompressor turn to break on those Briggs engines.

If valves are adjusted right at .004 and stops cranking the compression release built onto camshaft is broken. Needs to be replaced along with case gasket and lower seal. It only takes about 2 hours to do if lower pulley slides off.

JDusza said:

Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

Adjust the valves if no help then compression release not working.

Easiest diagnosis of the year...broken compression release on the cam...don't waste your time chasing other causes. Briggs and Scrappem engines are famous for this failure. I have replaced the cam on my BS before I sold the mower and fixed two other engines for friends. Not a complicated repair, just time consuming as the engine must be removed and taken apart. Moral of the story...avoid single cylinder Briggs and Scrappem engines.

This is something that happens a lot with these Briggs engines. I have repaired several with a way that a lot of the hard core mechanics will disagree with but add a set screw in the spot where the compression release lever rests until it starts. It is just like the camshafts were back in the day when Briggs advertised their Easy spin starting. It is just a small lump on the intake valve to release the compression when starting. Works the same as the existing lever as the set screw is rounded and only protrudes .013 of an inch so that it does not affect the running of the engine but solves the problem with the starting using a 25 cent screw and a little time since the engine has to be removed anyway. Agree or not, just food for the thought but it works for me with no complications.

JDusza said:

Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

Sorry if this has already been said, but you have compression issue trying readjusting the valves if that doesn't work you probably have a bad camshaft that's not working the decompression release. Good luck.

Why does a compression release exist? For the weak human pulling the cord. No engine equipped with a starter should ever require a compression release.

And no amount of adjustment of the valves will fix a worn compression release cam lobe. Drain your oil and look for sparklies. May be worse than you think.

Albuck said:

Will almost guarantee its yiur compression release spring. Simply cover the intake on the air box assembly with a piece of cardboard and try it. Once it fires up remove the cardboard and it will run fine as the spring only comes into play to start it. Shame it requires a teardown to fix a two dollar part.

Click to expand...

It's early, and I'm still having my coffee, so I may just be dense this morning, but this doesn't compute. Can you explain the logic between covering the intake and that action letting the starter spin the engine through the compression cycle? Is the idea that you starve the cylinder of air so there's not as much compression with the cardboard over it?

Here's a video that shows how the compression release works, so you know what you need to look for, how to adjust the valves, and how to tell if it's working or not by simply watching the action of the intake valve:

JDusza said:

I found something on the net about a valve release system built into the cam shaft that relieves a bit of pressure so the starter can spin. The failure led to metal pieces in the sump and the need to replace the cam shaft.
Could this be my issue?
J

Click to expand...

Yes that is exactly what's happening. You have to remove the engine and remove the bottom cover and remove the camshaft and replace it with a new one. They are not a lot of money from Amazon. It's hard to explain how it works but they use a centrifugal mechanism to open the intake valve slightly to relieve the compression while cranking. Once the engine fires up the centrifugal weight pops out so it works normally.
I had to do mine, it's a 16 horsepower that was on my zero turn. It did the same exact same thing. Also the valve lash adjustment has to be right on spot. You could actually check the valve lash first before you disassemble the engine and remove it. That might be all you need to do maybe would be reset the valve lash. It has a bearing on the compression

I'm a retired MASTER light and heavy truck mechanic for over 40 years. Certified front bumper to back bumper.

The 28, 31 and 33 seris use a compression release to help the small starter spin the engine. If you did not have a release you would need a starter the size of the one on a car, truck, or tractor.
The compression release opens the intake valves on these engines just a few thousansth of an inch so when the valve lash increases too much the is no release. Readjusting the valve will put the relief back to working -- IF the mechanism is not broken on the cam, which is a common occurance on these engines.
To check if the cam is good -- adjust the valves to specs. Now turn engine over with the starter or by hand and observe the rocker arms, the intake will make a small movement as the engine come up on compression. No movement or as one tech called it a double tap Bad cam. It is not a full opening of the valve just a small movement.
Because of the compression release Breaks & Scrapem does not publish specs, they say that they are not accurate with the release, But by spinning the engine backwards if it "bounces" of compression it is good to go.

My 19.5 hp Briggs in my '98 Craftsman rider would not crank either. My problem turned out to be an over filled crankcase from my last oil change. Drained out a pint and back to normal starting. Decided to purchase oil in quarts now instead of 5 quart containers.

JDusza said:

Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

It’s probably your cam there is a little piece on the cam that is a compression release that lets the starter turn over the engine. After the engine starts the centrifugal force of the cam spinning moves it out of the way to let it build full compression.

JDusza said:

Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

Cam # 793880 ,gasket # 697110, and new seal #795387

andy spence said:

This is something that happens a lot with these Briggs engines. I have repaired several with a way that a lot of the hard core mechanics will disagree with but add a set screw in the spot where the compression release lever rests until it starts. It is just like the camshafts were back in the day when Briggs advertised their Easy spin starting. It is just a small lump on the intake valve to release the compression when starting. Works the same as the existing lever as the set screw is rounded and only protrudes .013 of an inch so that it does not affect the running of the engine but solves the problem with the starting using a 25 cent screw and a little time since the engine has to be removed anyway. Agree or not, just food for the thought but it works for me with no complications.

Click to expand...

Hi Andy,

I remember those early "easy spin cams" but I also recall they sacrificed engine torque for easier starting.

From the sound of it, this would make a fixed permanent compression release.

I'm curious to see this design proposal, can you provide a picture example? How does this set screw affect the tappet face?

JDusza said:

Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

If you look at the cylinder you will see ridges in the wall. The piston is cocking and jams. Have experienced this on a 2 cycle.

Auto Doc's said:

Hi Andy,

I remember those early "easy spin cams" but I also recall they sacrificed engine torque for easier starting.

From the sound of it, this would make a fixed permanent compression release.

I'm curious to see this design proposal, can you provide a picture example? How does this set screw affect the tappet face?

Click to expand...

Next one that I will post a pic
The tappet ic much harder than the screw but the screw only proudest only .012 -.013 and rounded very smooth. It is a finan fix and works great

RevB said:

Why does a compression release exist? For the weak human pulling the cord. No engine equipped with a starter should ever require a compression release.

And no amount of adjustment of the valves will fix a worn compression release cam lobe. Drain your oil and look for sparklies. May be worse than you think.

Click to expand...

Ha! Reminds me of my minibike days from decades ago. Minibike had a 4HP or so B&S engine, and the 'approved' hot-up procedure (I read about it in a magazine) was to tighten up the governor spring a little, drill a smallish hole in the big-end for better splash lubrication, and off-hand grind the compression-relief lump off the heel of the cam. Yep, it was way harder to pull to start with the end result I had to re-rope the pull starter many times - became an expert at that in time!

JDusza said:

Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

I

I don’t see how any of the above suggestions would keep the motor spinning, make sure you or someone else has not installed a spark plug that is too long and the piston is hitting the spark plug.

Hi Tommy,

Without the compression release operating properly the engine compression is too high for the starter to effectively crank the engine consistently.

A larger more powerful starter means increasing the weight of the machine and that is not cost effective.

Tiger Small Engine said:

Step 1). Load test battery and clean and tighten all connections.
Step 2). Check valve clearance and adjust as needed.
Step 3). Listen, learn, and don’t overthink things.

Click to expand...

Thanks for this tip. I had the same problem and adjusting valves did help

i have had this happen. A little bump on a fly weight next to the intake cam hits the lifter on the way up and releases the compression just a little so the engine turns over easier when starting. Once it is running, the fly weight rotates the bump out of the way and the lifter tides only on the cam allowing full compression while the engine is running. If the intake valve is adjusted too loose, the bump will still lift the lifter but won't open the valve causing the full compression that won't let the starter pull it through. Properly adjusting the valves solves that. If that doesn't work, the fly weight and bump lifter is broken and the engine has to be torn down to replace it. I have had people bring me rope pulls that pull too hard, and the valve adjustment works if the internals are good. Worth a try.

JDusza said:

Model 33R777

Forest#2 said:

The compression release is on the intake valve.
It dumps some compression when the piston is just before TDC if the intake valve lash is .003-.005 with the piston 1/4 inch past TDC. .003 slowly turn the engine on the compression stroke and just before TDC you should see the intake valve stem just slightly bump towards open then re-close just before TDC. If you do not see this bump up the compression release on the camshaft might be bad.
Lot of information on-line about compression release on the single cylinder Briggs Intek engines and failure of the compression release and how to adjust the valves to get a compression release.
If the valve lash is at .003 and it still won't crank through insert a .002 feeler gauge under the rocker arm so as to take the lash to .001 and test crank.

Ignore compression readings for now.

Click to expand...

Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

JDusza said:

Model 33R777
Type 0003 G1
Code 190214ZD
Single cylinder.

Will not spin past compression stroke.
Battery measures 12.8 v. Starter is new (and all this was tried with 2 used starters as well, so 3 different starters).
Battery connections cleaned, starter relay connections cleaned.
Battery voltage measures 12.7 all the way to the starter; battery, starter relay input, starter relay output, starter lug.
Remover spark plug, spins like crazy.
Attached car battery. Will not spin past compression stroke. Remove spark plug. Spins like crazy.
Attach compression gauge, struggles with partial spins, but got 100 psi , so it may register more if the engine could spin enough to give a good test.
So, why, if all parameters measure good, will the starter not get past compression?
Thank you,'
J

Click to expand...

I had a Briggs and Stratton that did exact same thing, Almost pulled my hair out trying to figure it out! Engine would spin great without spark plug. Turned out it was the manual decompression located on cam. Nearly took to dump before i found problem, Bought an OEM on amazon for about $80. plus crankcase gasket and seals. total cost around $100. Was an easy fix except for old gasket removal. Engine runs wonderful now and has for several years.