Won’t turn over

jerrycmorrow

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Got a craftsman 917.273760 riding mower from my brother in another state. Been turning over and starting just fine.
little background:
Trickle charged battery overnight before bringing it home.
been mostly sitting for 2 weeks but always turned over and started (when I added fuel)
Noticed headlights weren’t plugged in so I did. Always stated before that
Wouldn’t turn over today. Sometimes it tried but no dice
Thinking the headlights ran the battery down I unplugged the lights. Tested the battery and it measured 12+ volts.
trckle and fast charged it anyway. No dice
Hooked charger up, compressed the presence lever, and tried again. No dice

any comments would be appreciated
Thanks, jerry
 

Rivets

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Try this procedure, as it has helped others. Post back you finds.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.

Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
 

jerrycmorrow

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Started on your list.
check the fuse(s), - good
check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and - clean
voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. - 12.7
Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight. - checked the negative battery cable from battery end to chassis ground. Whoops, open circuit. Took cable off, chassis end was TIGHT, cleaned connectors and chassis where cable connects; it was corroded (semi rusty). Reinstalled and voila. Instant start.
I’ve never had that issue in over 60 years of fooling with machinery. Whodda thunk?
Thanks much for your help and list
Jerry
 

Rivets

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Thanks for letting us know you’ve solved the problem. Many times it’s the simple things that we should check first. Battery to chassis ground is the one connection is the most common cause.
 

jerrycmorrow

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Apparently the rust wasn't the entire, or possibly none, of the problem. two days later had the same issues. finally today got back in to the troubleshooting.

1. shorting across the solenoid - the engine tries to turn over exactly like when I don't short the solenoid.
2. took shroud off and tried starting again while watching the starter sprocket - the metal sprocket (14 teeth) rarely disengages from the flywheel to return "home" on the starter. I've inspected the flywheel and don't see any buggers on the flywheel to trap the sprocket.
3. Then put couple drops of oil on the sprocket teeth. After couple of tries it seemed to disengage as designed. Not sure how long this "fix" will last or if the hangup was because of the teeth being "dry" or if the starter worm gear is just worn out.

So, I'm either gonna rebuild the starter or buy a new one. Only kit I can find is almost $50 and they seem to be like chickens teeth in availability. AM starters range from $30 and up. So, hard choice here, NOT.

A major concern is if someone replaced an original 16-tooth starter with the 14-tooth. Any way to find out for sure?

While I'm in there I'm considering whether I should go ahead and replace the solenoid which runs in the $15 range.

any further comments will be greatly appreciated.
thanks,
jerry
 

StarTech

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Yes the 14 tooth is for the steel ring ring and the 16 tooth is for the plastic and aluminum ring gears. So you need to just know if the flywheel has steel or not. BTW the 14 starter gear is steel and the 16 tooth one is plastic.

Now if the metal teeth on pinion are damage it can jam the flywheel. I one back in the Summer that literally locked up the engine.
 
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jerrycmorrow

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flywheel is steel. teeth on pinion don't look to be damaged. maybe the return spring. thanks much
 

StarTech

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It also be the meshing of the gears. Some starters are closer to flywheel than others. I know on my personal mower I had put two spacer washers between the starter and the crankcase so the pinion engage and disengage properly.
 
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