Thanks again
I will do the valve adjustment. Is there some place I can go to find out how to do it by specifications
Thanks for all your help
gperna
The net has all kinds of ways different people adjust valves and I don't agree with most of them . The Briggs book is a pretty good reference .
You will need a wrench for the valve cover cap screws, a spark plug wrench, a feeler gauge, a torques wrench, a jamb nut (lock nut) wrench and a drink straw . Drink straw you say ? - to be inserted into the spark plug hole to follow piston travel so the amount past TDC (top dead center) can be determined . You'll see screw drivers recommended but I wouldn't put a screw driver in my worst enemy's hole .:laughing:
The whole concept is to get the piston past TDC on the compression stroke a 1/4" to be sure the compression relief isn't interfering with the clearance we are trying to achieve
. This 1/4" past TDC isn't critical as some would lead us to believe
. A half inch or an inch beyond TDC on this power stroke will work just as well so long as we don't get to the point where the exhaust valve is beginning to open
.
If it were mine I'd set the clearance 0.004 - 0.006 (0.005) intake and 0.006 - 0.008 (0.007) exhaust but check a book for yours
. After you think you are finished and did a good job with everything tightened back go through the strokes and check with the feeler gauge one more time
.
This can seem intimidating at first but just dig in and ask for help if you feel stumped
. It even seems that way a little to me because of the size of the engine but that's after spending a career setting 48 hydraulic valves on V-12 1000 HP engines ( no feeler gauges) and I'm about to catch on again
. :biggrin:
