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I have a1000 series LT1024 CubCadit better then 5 years old slowly it got harder and harder to start

(would not turn over) Put new battery seemed to be better before season over got slow start again put new starter still turn over to slow Now I can only get it started if I take one of the spark plugs out start the engine Direct Hot wire to starter let it run shut it off put the plug back in and then it starts Any Help would be GREAT

gperna

Need to know a few things before we can try to help you. Please post the make and model numbers of the engine. We have to know what you are dealing with. Second, what do you mean by starting slow? Starter turns over slow? Engine spins freely, but fails to fire? After you finish using the unit, will it start easily? Remember, you are our eyes, ears and hands, we can not understand your problem unless you are more precise in your descriptions. Please don't assume that we have seen this before and can give you a stock solution.

Thanks for the reply
The engine is a B/S Model 446777 Type 0302EL
Code 010413YC, 24 HP, ELS725
The engine won't turn over unless I take out one of the Spark plugs and then it starts I let it "run" for a little then put back the plug and it start up OK but only if I put the jumper cables Postive side to the starter motor as I did to first get it started
Thanks again for the reply
gperna

More Info
I have replaced the Battary and the Starter motor and at the begaining of last summer I put in new
Valve push rods becouse old ones got bent other then that the engine worked great
Thanks again
gperna

The valve adjustment on your engine is borderline . The reason it cranks after running a short while is the valve lash closes just enough from expansion to allow the compression relief to be just effective enough to crank . Adjust the valves to specs and clean the battery terminals and cable ends until they are bright lead and copper/tin if you haven't already done that .

Thanks again
I will do the valve adjustment. Is there some place I can go to find out how to do it by specifications
Thanks for all your help
gperna

gperna said:

Thanks again
I will do the valve adjustment. Is there some place I can go to find out how to do it by specifications
Thanks for all your help
gperna

Click to expand...

The net has all kinds of ways different people adjust valves and I don't agree with most of them . The Briggs book is a pretty good reference .

You will need a wrench for the valve cover cap screws, a spark plug wrench, a feeler gauge, a torques wrench, a jamb nut (lock nut) wrench and a drink straw . Drink straw you say ? - to be inserted into the spark plug hole to follow piston travel so the amount past TDC (top dead center) can be determined . You'll see screw drivers recommended but I wouldn't put a screw driver in my worst enemy's hole .:laughing:

The whole concept is to get the piston past TDC on the compression stroke a 1/4" to be sure the compression relief isn't interfering with the clearance we are trying to achieve . This 1/4" past TDC isn't critical as some would lead us to believe . A half inch or an inch beyond TDC on this power stroke will work just as well so long as we don't get to the point where the exhaust valve is beginning to open .

If it were mine I'd set the clearance 0.004 - 0.006 (0.005) intake and 0.006 - 0.008 (0.007) exhaust but check a book for yours . After you think you are finished and did a good job with everything tightened back go through the strokes and check with the feeler gauge one more time .

This can seem intimidating at first but just dig in and ask for help if you feel stumped . It even seems that way a little to me because of the size of the engine but that's after spending a career setting 48 hydraulic valves on V-12 1000 HP engines ( no feeler gauges) and I'm about to catch on again . :biggrin:

THANKS you have been more then helpful I will do the valve adjustment first thing tomorrow and let you know results
Thanks again
gperna

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you. This manual might help you out.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12502267/B&S Service Manuals/03_272144VanguardTwinCylinderOHV.pdf

Why were the pushrods bent? That's a mystery to me. I've seen flywheel keys shear on these, throwing off the timing, but then it wouldn't start, or would run terrible if it did.

Sturgisatv
I do not know why the push rods bent & broke the 1st time. About three or 4 seasons ago the mower started popping and my son-in-law replaced the push rods on the vacuum fuel pump side cylinders he also adjusted them ( He is a airplane mechanic for jet blue) last season it started popping again sometimes so I replaced a bent one on the same side. Then at the end of last season I had the problem with starting.
Now I have adjusted the valves on both sides and it starts using the new starter motor if I jump Positive side of Battery directly to starter. Have checked out Solenoid and seems defective. going to buy a new one and install.
I'll let you all know if that is the last link in solving my mower problems
Thanks for all you guys help
gperna