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I believe I have a Kawasaki FD731V. Recently my wife was driving the mower and it just died in the middle of the yard. It has fuel and good battery but, when I inspected the fuses, the 20A fuse for the charging system was practically melted. I removed the fuse and cleaned the terminals but now the mower will not even click the starter solenoid. I tested all the safety switches to make sure that was not the issue and it isn’t. Any ideas?

You have corrosion or a loose connection that has caused the melting. The charging and starting should be separate circuits. Got other issues in the wiring likely.

What mower is it on? Check the 6 pin connector where the engine connects to the mower , for loose wires or corrosion.

txmowman said:

What mower is it on? Check the 6 pin connector where the engine connects to the mower , for loose wires or corrosion.

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The motor is on a Ferris is3100z.

Check the ground cable both ends

Just checked grounds and voltage on the key switch. I was getting 12.65 volts at all positions on the switch required to start the engine, still not engaging the starter solenoid. Is there an east way to test the safety switches or could the time delay module have gone bad and caused the issue?

is the 12.65 with the key turned to start?

sgkent said:

is the 12.65 with the key turned to start?

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i believe it is. I will double check.

What is the seven digit model number on the serial number tag?

StarTech said:

What is the seven digit model number on the serial number tag?

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Family ID: 7KAXS. 6752CB

Engine family: KAXS. 675N4CC

E/NO FF731V030924

sgkent said:

is the 12.65 with the key turned to start?

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In the start position I am getting 12.6x volts from B/LS and the run position I get 12.6x volt from B/L/A.

rinse said:

Just checked grounds and voltage on the key switch. I was getting 12.65 volts at all positions on the switch required to start the engine, still not engaging the starter solenoid. Is there an east way to test the safety switches or could the time delay module have gone bad and caused the issue?

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The method I use is to make some patch leads with male terminals on both ends after checking the solenoid by applying power to the trigger terminal and ground to the solenoid base.
This solenoid grounds through the metal base & on ZTR's a little moisture wicked in under these and no ground.
As a routine service technique I either grease the base before reinstalling or put some conducting paste around the mounting bolt

My patch leads are about 2" to 6" long and I use them to jump the switch plugs, stating with the key switch
So on your Ferris you pull the key plug & jump the red & yellow
Then one at a time jump each safety switch
When the engine cranks you have found the guilty party
If it still does not trigger the solenoid then I use longer leads to bypass the wiring between the switches
By virtue of the fact you mentioned you had tested the key switch terminals I assume you do have the circuit diagram for your mower .

Ended up being a bad relay. Thanks for everyone’s input!